I’ve always had a fixation on and a love for hair. I can even remember being four years old and drawing stick figures with super-long hair. My parents were always very into beauty and fashion, so I think they were a big influence when it came to me being expressive with my looks. My sister was also a huge contributing factor, especially when it came to my colourful aesthetic. She used to have locs, and I would watch her colour them all sorts of hues. I always thought that that was cool, and as I got older, I wanted to be able to do something similar but in my own unique way.

RELATED: Texture Talk: How to Repair Heat and Colour Damage

My colour choices are very reflective of where I am in my life. Spiritually speaking, colours have their own energies and vibrations. For example, my hair was pink last summer — a time when I needed to embrace more self-love. (Pink is associated with love, inner peace, balance and harmony.) I’ve also rocked brown to be more grounded and blue for more calming and healing energy. As I go through transition periods and phases in life, my hair colours mirror them.

 

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When it comes to my curls, I’m a volume girl; I like to add extensions to my natural hair to accentuate it but mostly to achieve my colours — I’m terrified to dye my own hair, especially any bright shade. Extensions are fun, versatile and safer for the health and longevity of my hair. I love wigs for these same reasons. I’ve learned to make braided wigs — plaiting my own hair isn’t always the most convenient thing for me because I like to switch up my style a lot — and I’m in the process of learning to make lace-front wigs.

With my hair-care routine, I try to be mindful of not over-consuming products; I try to stick to a plan — like deep conditioning once a month and investing in good hydrating oils — and not go overboard with formulas. And I’ll reuse wigs and certain types of extensions until I basically can’t anymore. I think that it’s important to buy quality products that will last, as opposed to constantly purchasing new ones.

A hair-care routine can be such a spiritual thing, too. Like, at night, I wear a really big bonnet — I often laugh at myself when I have it on because it kind of looks like the mushroom hat from Mario — to preserve my curls, but I’ve also noticed that when my hair is covered, I feel protected in a way. I think that comes from my experiences: Rocking really big curls out in public, I’ve had random people touch my hair without asking and ask me questions like “How do you sleep?” or “Is your hair heavy?” For the most part, I understand that those types of encounters are coming from an innocent place, but sometimes, unfortunately, there are situations that feel like microaggressions.

When I was younger, I was very insecure about my looks — I literally thought I was ugly. But once I entered my 20s and did a lot of self-reflecting, healing and growth work, I felt a shift — a transformative perception of myself. It’s taken a while, but I’ve learned to really appreciate my style and my beauty, even if I do have days where I’m like, “Am I too much for people? Too expressive, too flamboyant?” I have to remind myself sometimes that the right people will appreciate me for who I am. I’ve learned to accept myself, and I know that I wouldn’t want to be any other way.

 

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Love to experiment with wigs or extensions? Check out 5 brands bettering the hair-extension game:

The wig and hair-extension market is a multi-billion-dollar global industry. But many are made with landfill-bound strands of plastic (which often have an alkaline coating that can cause skin irritation), while various human-hair versions raise ethical issues surrounding sourcing. Here, discover brands bettering the game with their transparency and practices, like using premium Remy hair (strands cut or shaved straight from willing donors who are compensated in return, plus all the protective hair cuticles are preserved for sleekness and shine) and recyclable alternatives.

Photography courtesy of Ayune Hair

Photography by Colin Gaudet courtesy of Luxy Hair

Photography courtesy of New Village Braid

1/5

Ayune Hair

Body Wave

(From $111, Ayune Hair)

This Australian company sources hair from Southeast Asian women who collect their naturally shed strands for additional income. The extensions are piped (a chemical-free process) to create signature “body” and “water wave” textures.

Buy Now

2/5

Larin

Yaki Straight

(From $146, Larin)

Based in the United Kingdom, Larin offers dye-friendly styles, all of which are made of Remy hair from Vietnam. Donors are compensated fairly, and the brand’s partner factory ensures fair working conditions.

Buy Now

3/5

Luxy Hair

16" Peekaboo Halo Hair Extensions

($250, Luxy Hair)

Beloved by A-listers like Hailey Bieber and Jennifer Lopez, this Salt Lake City-based Remy hair extensions brand has a recycling program for old units through Matter of Trust, an organization that felts hair into absorbent mats used to help clean up oil spills.

Buy Now

4/5

Mulberry Hair Extensions

Topper

(From $1,490, Mulberry Hair Extensions)

This made-in-Canada brand offers hand-crafted, tailored human-hair extensions sourced responsibly both domestically and internationally.

Buy Now

5/5

New Village Braid

NVB Eco Pre-stretched 26" in “Platinum Blonde”

($11, New Village Braid)

This PVC- and alkaline-free faux braiding hair won’t cause irritation and can be sent back to the brand’s Virginia headquarters post-use to be recycled instead of tossed in the trash.

Buy Now

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2023 issue. Find out more here.

The post Colourful Hair Is the Ultimate Form of Self-Expression for This Astrologer appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

An incredibly empowering thing about afro-textured hair is how versatile it is. Locs — a protective hairstyle where strands of hair are twisted around themselves into permanent fused units — are heavily associated with Black identity and have rich and complex origins. From Africa to Asia to the Americas, the hairstyle has been worn continuously by people of colour from various regions around the world, dating from ancient times until now. But despite their long history, locs were only really thrust into Western culture in the 1970s thanks to the success of reggae artist Bob Marley, who wore them as a part of his connection to Rastafarianism — a religious movement born in Jamaica.

RELATED: Tyrone Edwards on the Powerful Relationship He Has With His Signature Locs

For decades, the term “dreadlocks” has been used to describe the style, but today it’s considered problematic due to its deep entanglement in colonialism and the establishment of Eurocentric beauty standards, which have caused natural hair and protective styles to be unfairly judged and policed. Thus, there’s been a push to drop “dread” altogether to create a healthier narrative.

Sure, locs continue to be symbolic of spiritual or religious beliefs for many who sport them, but for a multitude of others, the hairstyle holds different meanings. It can represent cultural or ethnic pride, a step in determining one’s own beauty ideal or making a hairstyle choice that simply feels convenient  (though it does come with its own unique maintenance routine — and yes, that means regular washing). Here, four creatives share their locs journey and the experiences they’ve encountered along the way.

Shaquone Blake

Model, Toronto
@onceaking__

I grew up admiring locs. (My dad has had them for as long as I can remember.) To me, they represent power. I started growing my own when I was around 14, and five years into my locs journey, I began dabbling with different hues — blond, blue, red and green. But grey has always been my favourite hair colour; it reminds me of wisdom. I went through a series of boxed dyes to achieve my desired grey shade, but the process was really damaging to my hair so I eventually went to a hairdresser to try faux locs. My own locs get braided; then extensions (mine are handmade in Poland) are added in using a crochet technique. I’ve spent the majority of my life trying to fit in, but now I’m all about standing out. A locs mullet (bangs at the front, long in the back, shaved sides) has been my signature look for the past three years. My hair makes me feel magical, unique and exclusively me.

Naskademini

Photographer, Montreal
@naskademini

My parents and my brothers all have locs. Even my aunt has beautiful locs flowing almost all the way down to her ankles. I got mine done in Trinidad and Tobago, where my family is from, and it’s been quite a few years now that I’ve been growing them out. There are unpleasant stigmas associated with locs due to a lack of knowledge and the ways people can see you. A common question I get asked is if I wash my hair. A lot of people also mistake locs for braids or continue to refer to them as “dreadlocks,” not realizing that the traditional term now has a negative connotation attached to it. People have also randomly asked me if I have weed, assuming I’m a stoner or that I sell it. There’s a larger conversation that needs to be had about how people view the hairstyle and think you’re living a certain way based on your appearance.

Roxanne de Nobrega

Makeup Artist, Toronto
@roxannedenobrega

My locs journey started in the late ’90s with me shaving my head and going completely bald to get rid of my relaxed strands. I didn’t know any other way because there was not a lot of information available on locs, so it was a process learning about them. People would ask me why I was growing them out, commenting that I wouldn’t be able to find work. Maybe I wouldn’t have been able to get an office job — especially back then — but because I’m a makeup artist, I felt like I had creative licence to do what I wanted. Also, my image of locs was Angela Davis, an educated activist and university professor who had them at the time. Seeing her really gave me confidence and made me not worry about others’ opinions. I grew up being told that hair is a woman’s beauty, but I’ve never liked being controlled by anything. So when I shaved my head, I felt empowered knowing that my beauty was me and growing locs would only add to it. Since the ’90s, I’ve had my locs really long and short, I’ve coloured them many times and I’ve even shaved them off, grown an afro and then eventually retwisted my hair. I’ve never stuck to just one style. I just love how in control I feel with my locs.

Damaris White

Model, Barrie, Ont.
@queen.albino

I’ve been growing my locs for eight years. I was tired of the process of getting my hair chemically relaxed (which was often painful) every few weeks or having to get extensions redone. To me, locs felt like something that would be easier to maintain and that I could take on myself. And they’re very versatile: I’ll do updos or half-up styles and curl them or braid them. Common stereotypes I experience about my locs are people assuming I’m Rastafarian or spiritual or that I’m either vegan or vegetarian. And as a model, I’ve been on-set with hairstylists who think they can’t do much with my hair so they just leave it down.

A version of this article first appeared in FASHION’s March 2023 issue. Find out more here.

The post Four Canadian Creatives On Their Signature Locs appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Much like clothing is seasonally swapped in and out, your hair products should also rotate to match the outdoor environment. Elisha Gotha, owner of acclaimed Toronto curly hair salon The Curl Lounge, explains that the use of hair masks is particularly beneficial for curly hair due to its fragility, in comparison to other hair types. “We have a lot of natural broken bonds in our hair, which on a molecular level means that we have a lot of twists and turns that can cause more breakage,” says Gotha.

In such a vast natural hair market, curly customers are spoiled for choice. To narrow down the search for a winter-ready mask, Gotha suggests avoiding products largely composed of heavier oils (think shea butter, castor oil and coconut oil) which can create product build-up and prevent hydrating ingredients from penetrating the hair. One word you do want to seek out? Hydration.

Below, find the best hair masks for curly and natural hair to lean on this winter.

Oribe’s Hair Alchemy Strengthening Mask

 

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Oribe has expanded its award-winning Hair Alchemy Collection with a brand new buttery soft treatment masque aiming to hydrate, strengthen, and lengthen hair. Packed with a fortifying and silicone-free blend of Castor Seed Oil, Cold-Pressed Yacón Root Juice and Shea Butter, this Alchemy Strengthening Masque will restore elasticity to brittle curls and curb breakage. Suitable for daily use as an intensive conditioner or weekly use on finer hair, this masque can easily be added to any wash day lineup.

Carol’s Daughter Monoi Repairing Mask

 

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Now that the Brooklyn-born brand is available to shop in Canada online and at select retailers, we can finally get our hands on Carol’s Daughter’s Monoi Repairing Hair Mask. Formulated with hydrolyzed silk and monoi oil (an ancient mixture of Tahitian tiare gardenia flower extract and coprah coconut oil), this intense treatment mask nourishes strands from root to tip while reversing damage and preventing future breakage.

 

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Holy Curls Curl Mask

Founded across the pond in London, England, Holy Curls is a cruelty-free brand all about empowering women to embrace their curly hair — and with it comes a restorative baobab and shea-rich 15-minute curl mask. The mantra on the product label? “Flux the flow. Feel the vibe. Take it slow. Do it right. Because this is a moment, not a routine. It’s downtime. It’s your time. It’s me time.” We heard that! P.S. The brand is newly available at Detox Market Canada.

 

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Shaeri Intense Care Hair Mask

Au revoir Paris, hello Canada! Give your curls new life with Paris-based Shaeri’s Intense Care Mask, now available at Indigo. Shifting the French-girl hair narrative with every product, this brand believes in multiculturalism and innovation as it uses natural ingredients to hydrate all hair types (and especially curls!). The standout ingredient in this mask and the entire product lineup? Prickly pear oil packed with antioxidant properties via vitamin E derived from a cactus and sourced by women’s co-operatives in Morocco. Aesthetically packaged with fun graphic elements, this bottle also makes a gorgeous edition to any shower shelf.

 

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Everist The Deep Conditioning Concentrate

Canadian zero-waste hair and body brand Everist just dropped a plant-based deep conditioning concentrate that curls will love. Its major focus? You guessed it, hydration. The 100ml tube is packed with pumpkin seed oil and more than 20% aloe vera to back up its smoothing and detangling properties — all without harmful ingredients like parabens, silicones and synthetic fragrances. It can be used as a daily hair conditioner or left on for 15 minutes to really penetrate the hair as a deep treatment mask.

 

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The Potion Studio Confident Crown Conditioner

In all honesty, any hair product named “Confident Crown” sounds good to us already, but this conditioner from The Potion Studio walks the walk, too. Formulated with wheat protein, mango butter, and organic coconut oil, this product can double as a deep conditioner to moisturize and smooth all curls and coils — because founder Aziza El Wanni believes in helping curly-haired customers simplify their hair routines. If that weren’t enough, did we mention it’s vegan?

 

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K18 Biomimetic Hairscience Leave-In Molecular Repair Hair Mask

Caring for curly hair is generally time-consuming — and deservedly so — but if you’re pinched for time and still need to work a treatment in, K-18’s molecular repair mask promises to reverse hair damage and deliver lasting results with its patented hair science in just four quick minutes. The mask’s patented K18Peptide repairs keratin chains within the innermost layers of hair to restore its strength and elasticity. All that in four minutes? Consider us sold.

 

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Amika x HairToStay Limited Edition Soulfood Nourishing Hair Mask

In support of HairToStay, a nonprofit helping cancer patients afford scalp cooling treatments, Amika released a special, limited edition of its ultra-rich jojoba seed oil and sea buckthorn powered nourishing mask. Available in both its 16oz value size (for extra-thirsty curls) or standard 8oz tubs, $4 of each purchase will be donated to HairToStay for this important cause.

 

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Briogeo Don’t Despair, Repair! Super Moisture Conditioner

Don’t let the cost discourage you, this value size bottle will give you 33 ounces of reparative goodness that’ll outlast other masks — it’s clear Briogeo understands curls require a lot of product to get the job done. “It’s a little easier on the budget because you can get such a big size and it’s both hydrating and reparative, whereas some other masks can just be packaged so small,” says Gotha.

 

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Moroccanoil Intense Hydrating Mask

Claiming to improve hydration, texture, elasticity, shine and manageability, Moroccanoil’s Intense Hydrating Mask truly lives up to its name. This product provides instant hydration, says Gotha, who recommends this mask for those suffering from severe dryness. Due to its ultra-hydrating properties, this formula fares best with medium-thick textured hair.

 

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Olaplex Hair Perfector No. 3

While hydration is key during these icy months, it’s also important to protect our textured tresses. Gotha’s top pick? Olaplex’s hugely popular Hair Perfector No. 3. “Olaplex has changed the game — it has bond rebuilders and it’s unlike anything else. Its patented technology helps reform your hair and the broken bonds we naturally have as curly girls,” she says. This treatment will help strengthen hair to withstand even the toughest winter accessories and protective styles.

 

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Innersense Hydrating Hair Masque

When using this mask by Innersense, less is more. “It doesn’t have a lot of water content, and it’s very concentrated. A little goes a long way and it’s activated by the water that’s already in your hair,” explains Gotha. Packed with the right balance of nourishing nutrients and hydrating oils, Innersense skips out on damaging toxins to give you an organic, clean concoction of hydration in a bottle.

 

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TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask

Oh, honey. If you’re in search of a budget-friendly treatment mask, Gotha recommends looking no further than TGIN’S Honey Miracle Hair Mask. “While it does contain some olive oil, the other ingredients are simple and it doesn’t have any damaging or filler ingredients,” says Gotha — meaning, no need to worry about the parabens or sulphates common in standard hair formulas. Thanks to the star ingredient of raw honey, this mask will leave your hair looking good and smelling good. Plus, it’s safe for colour treated curls too.

The post The Best Hydrating Curly Hair Masks for Winter appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

“This is an opportunity to highlight amazing content buried within our archives that shows how Black culture has been involved in the mainstream,” says Cassandra Illidge, vice-president of content and brand partnerships at Getty and the lead on the project. “We have only scratched the surface of the amount of photography and stories that have not been explored around the Black community and its impact on history.”

Illidge and her team partnered closely with internationally recognized researchers, historians, and educators, like visual artist and NYU professor Deborah Willis. “We lived a lifetime of denying Black presence in beauty and fashion. Some of the images that circulated during the 19th [and 20th] centuries dehumanized Black people,” states Willis. “This archive is evidence — simply as that. I see it as a cure for the racist images that have been circulated for hundreds of years.”

Below, we spotlight a handful of Black men and women who have paved paths and influenced beauty and fashion along the way.

Photography by MPI courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by General Photographic Agency courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by General Photographic Agency courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Frank Shaw courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by UPI/Bettmann courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Michael Ochs Archive courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by UPI/Bettmann courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Fred Mott courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Michael Ochs Archives courtesy of Getty

Photography by David Cairns courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Roy Milligan courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Michael Ochs Archive courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by UPI/Bettmann courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Michael Ochs Archives courtesy of Getty Images

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by UPI/Bettmann courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Michael Ochs Archives courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Frederick M. Brown courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by John Shearer courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Alex Wong courtesy of Getty Images

Photography by Anothony Harvey courtesy of Getty Images

1/21

1800s

Escaped slave and leading abolitionist Frederick Douglass was said to be one of the most photographed men of the 19th century. Before and during the American Civil War, he fought to end the practice of slavery. “He understood dress as biography,” says Deborah Willis. “In the way that he presented himself, we see how he felt that the caricatures that represented Black people during that time period was a hindrance to his own humanity.”

2/21

1920s

Cast members of Broadway producer Lew Leslie’s famous musical revue, ‘Blackbirds Of 1926’, on the roof of the London Pavilion. “This image really resonates with me,” says Willis. “Within a 30-year, post-slavery time period, these Black female performers decided that they didn’t want to be domestic workers, but perform on stage and travel the world. To have a voice and believe in their creativity. This image shows that freedom, from the way they’re dressed to their different hairstyles. These women had a chance to play with beauty and expand their notion of it.”

3/21

1920s and 1930s

During the Jazz Age, Josephine Baker’s hair was often styled in flapper-chic kiss-curls. The famed entertainer was the first Black woman to star in a major motion picture — the 1927 silent film Siren of the Tropics.

4/21

1930s

Said to be the daughter of a sheik (the head of an Arab tribe), Princess Kouka of Sudan, who simply went by Kouka, arrived on the British film scene in the 1930s and is most known for her role in a film called Jericho (also alternatively titled Dark Sands). She also starred in several Egyptian films.

5/21

1940s

Standing in front of her white peers inside a segregated “no Blacks” hotel in L.A., the elegantly coiffed Hattie McDaniel broke the colour barrier at the 12th Academy Awards when she became the first Black person to win an Oscar for her performance as Mammy in Gone With the Wind. Although her role as a house servant is argued to have perpetuated many racial stereotypes, her win cannot be denied as an immense success story within a representation-starved industry.

6/21

1950s

An exceptional example of everyday Black joy: civil-rights activist and Nobel Peace Prize recipient Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. relaxing at home with his wife Coretta Scott King (we see you, elegant pin curls) and baby daughter.

7/21

1960s

No one did glamour quite like The Supremes trio Mary Wilson, Diana Ross and Florence Ballard. Motown’s most successful act, the girl group became renowned for their maximalist style and stage presence.

8/21

1960s

And no one wore beehive-like updos and thick winged black eyeliner quite like The Ronettes.

9/21

1960s

From her proud afro and signature head wraps, to her self-penned civil rights anthems, Nina Simone — one of the most sampled jazz artists of all time — never shied away from celebrating her Black culture.

10/21

1960s

Princess Elizabeth Bagaya of Toro is a trailblazer for many reasons. The Ugandan lawyer, politician, diplomat and model was the first woman from East Africa to be admitted to the English Bar and, over the years, became a muse for renowned fashion photographers and designers (she was the inspiration behind Zac Posen’s Fall 2016 ready-to-wear collection). She also briefly served as Uganda’s foreign minister in 1974.

11/21

1960s

With her March 1966 British Vogue cover, model and actress Donyale Luna became the first model of colour to grace any Vogue magazine cover.

12/21

1970s

Cicely Tyson became one of the first mainstream Black actors to confidently embrace her natural hair on national television when she wore an afro for her role in the 1963 drama East Side/West Side. She would later debut cornrows in the 1972 film Sounder.

13/21

1970s & 1980s

Grace Jones’s imprint on style is everlasting. Her geometric haircut, club-kid makeup and avant-garde fashion sense embodied the opulent disco culture of the ’70s and ’80s.

14/21

1980s & 1990s

“Now, who flat top rules in ’89?” rapper Big Daddy Kane sang in his 1989 track “Warm It Up, Kane.” His sense of style — high-top fade hairstyles, chunky chains and four-finger rings — set a number of late-’80s and early-’90s hip-hop trends.

15/21

1990s

Naomi Campbell’s nearly four-decade-long modelling career has been filled with many barrier-breaking moments (like being the first Black model to open for Prada and land the cover of French Vogue). She also helped set many iconic beauty trends, such as dark, exaggerated lip liner that ruled the 1990s.

16/21

1990s

When supermodel Iman launched her eponymous makeup line Iman Cosmetics in 1994 — a line celebrated for offering products that flatter Black and Brown skin — she became a beauty pioneer during a time when barely any beauty brands catered to the needs of women of colour.

17/21

1990s

Here’s to the queen of protective styles. From micro to box to knotless, braided hairdos have become synonymous with R&B singer Brandy ever since she sprang onto the music scene in the 1990s.

18/21

2000s & 2010s

When Solange Knowles dropped relaxed strands and straight wigs in the late 2000s, she became a natural-hair icon. Since growing out her coils, she has rocked a myriad of afro-textured hairstyles, from an ultra-fluffy ’fro to two-strand twists.

19/21

2010s

In 2012, actor Viola Davis turned heads when she decided to ditch her wigs and hairpieces and go natural for the Oscars red carpet. She’s been serving endless coily-hair looks ever since.

20/21

2020s

In 2021, Amanda Gorman became the youngest inaugural poet in U.S. history when she performed at the swearing in of President Joe Biden and Vice-President Kamala Harris. Another significant detail: her braided updo adorned with gold jewellery and a red Prada headband. It was the first time a protective braided hairstyle had ever graced the inaugural stage.

21/21

2020s

Since emerging on the Hollywood scene, actor Jodie Turner-Smith has commanded attention with her breathtaking fashion and beauty looks.

A condensed version of this article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter issue. Find out more here.

The post Everyone Should Know About Getty’s Black History & Culture Collection appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

When the world is blowing up, you have two choices: Blow up with it or find shelter. For me, shelter became hours of digesting Instagram infographics, mostly from Black women writing about racial gaslighting, anti-Blackness and, most gloriously, radical self-love. While I was reposting, championing and connecting with these women from around the globe, a voice inside of me kept saying “Radical means doing something that scares you.” So, I took a pair of scissors and began. Ten minutes in, not knowing what I was doing, I asked my little sister to finish the job. An hour later, horrified and crying over the keyboard after seeing my scalp for the first time in my life, I ordered my first wig.

It’s not that I regretted having shaved my head; it’s that I felt naked. My hair was completely damaged from years of perming, processing and being pulled tightly into braids. I had tried every home remedy to address the intense patches of dryness that would sometimes bleed when I scratched. I visited dermatologists. But, deep down, I knew that the big chop was a tried-and-true defence, just like rubbing Vicks on my chest is when I’m sick with a cold or a broken heart. Still, while waiting for my wig, I wore hats and scarves whenever I went grocery shopping. I wouldn’t answer any Zoom or FaceTime requests unless I was hiding under a hoodie. I felt like anyone who saw me bald knew that I was going through something big, and at times I couldn’t help but feel like a cliché: “Black girl messes up her hair so bad that she has to start over.”

Then, just before my birthday, my wig arrived. It was long and sleek and went all the way down to my butt. I felt like a sophisticated, serious adult who drinks coffee after dinner. In reality, I’m a burger-and-beer kind of girl. Until then, the most expensive thing I owned was my work laptop; suddenly I was wearing something that cost eight hundred dollars. The wig had an immediate effect on me. I felt powerful. It was like a cape, and with it, I could fly anywhere. “Tonight, I’m someone else,” I’d say to my friends and then flip my tresses over my shoulders like I’ve seen in the movies and order a martini.

Suddenly, I loved the process of getting ready for my Zoom calls. I would blast feel-good music and use spray and wax to melt the lace of the wig onto my forehead. I’d let it dry and then spend an additional 30 minutes styling my new strands. My definition of self-care used to be checking in with my therapist and taking my daily vitamins. But this new process and act of beautification had me feeling like a famous YouTuber being asked to walk viewers through her morning routine. It took a lot of care and patience. It forced me to spend quality time with myself in a way I hadn’t done in recent memory.

Three months later, I had seven wigs. They were all different styles, textures, colours and shapes. I felt especially Carrie Bradshaw in my blond wig — a daring choice for a woman who only wears black. It was thrilling. Soon, I stopped feeling watched; I felt seen. Getting ready continued to be a fun one-woman show I subjected everyone on my Instagram “close friends” list to. But taking off my wig at the end of the day and meeting myself, with vulnerability and patience, is when the healing really took place.

The first time you see your scalp, you should introduce yourself: “Hello, scalp, my name is….” After carefully removing my wig — always spraying the lace with warm water first and then rubbing, not pulling — I learned to take a moment to appreciate my bare scalp and how far I’d come. I learned to care for this part of my body in a way I hadn’t before. I fed it with moisturizer and homemade masks made of mashed avocado, eggs and oil. It didn’t last. Contrary to what I’d thought, my 4C hair grew back in the blink of an eye. I paid more attention to the little coils; I watched them shape-shift and curl. I felt confident going out as is. When my hair grew back enough that I was able to braid it into cornrows, I remembered to be gentle and not rush. I learned that my hair is not hard or tough. It is delicate, just like me.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s March issue. Find out more here. 

The post Texture Talk: Shaving My Head Helped Me Find the Power in My Hair appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

How to prep your hair for a protective style

For optimal results, before a protective style is installed, curls should be cleansed, deep-conditioned and moisturized. “You want to address any dryness or itchiness in the scalp before your stylist does a protective style,” says Clara Amaguru, owner of Alara Hair Solutions in Burnaby, B.C. Begin with a clarifying shampoo followed by a moisturizing shampoo. Curls should then be coated with a hydrating deep conditioner and allowed to sit for 20 to 30 minutes — ideally under low heat to really “bake in” the moisture — before being rinsed out. “When you add heat, the cuticle of the hair opens up a bit, which allows the emollients and proteins to penetrate deeper,” says Brian Phillips, owner of worldSALON in Toronto.

He recommends being diligent about incorporating a good cleansing and conditioning routine well in advance of your salon appointment, before your hair is wrapped up and not easily accessible. Clean hair should then be stretched from root to tip — especially when it comes to tighter coils — with a blow-drying brush or wide-toothed comb attachment to make the braiding process that follows more manageable and to avoid tugging. Pre-stretching also helps eliminate fly- aways during plaiting and prevents frizz down the line, says Amaguru.

Tips for maintaining your style

“Maintenance is a big part of a protective style,” notes Amaguru. “If you don’t maintain your style, it won’t be protective anymore; instead, it will be damaging.” For sleeping, opt for a large frizz-reducing silk bonnet or scarf that can hold all of your faux hair.

“Moving around on a pillow all night wreaks havoc on protective styles,” says Phillips. And because extensions are susceptible to picking up lint, Amaguru warns against cotton. “I always keep my hair wrapped in silk until after I put my clothes on to minimize any rubbing or lint transfer,” she explains. Should you come across frizz at the root, reach for an edge tamer to keep hairs up top in check. There is great versatility in protective-styling ’dos, but be wary of excessive pulling or tension. “It eliminates the positive effects of protective styling,” notes Amaguru. “You want to minimize tension in and around the hairline because that’s the weakest part of your hair.”

The importance of scalp care

Good scalp care is key once your protective style has been installed, but skip the dry shampoos, says Phillips. “They give you that blast of something quick that feels good, but they don’t actually remove pollution residue and buildup.” While you should maintain weekly washing, a showerless cleanser designed specifically to detoxify the scalp is a good alternative. You can use a damp washcloth at the roots to pat the scalp clean or, as Phillips does to maintain his own locs, a damp shaving brush to gently scrub away buildup without creating a lot of frizz. Amaguru recommends using a light hair oil — look for formulations with ingredients like witch hazel, tea tree and vitamin E — post-cleanse to combat any winter dryness, irritation or itchiness you may experience.

What to expect when you remove your protective style

The recommended length of time to wear protective styles varies. Amaguru suggests one to two weeks for flat styles like cornrows, three to 10 weeks for braids and twists and eight weeks for weaves.

When you remove them, expect to find ample shedding (“normal shedding is 50 to 100 hairs a day, so imagine how much you’ll have lost after three weeks — up to 2,100 hairs,” shares Phillips), and follow up with a split-end trim as necessary to ensure that all your new growth isn’t in vain. “Hair strands are like a wishbone: They will continue to split right to your scalp if you let them,” explains Phillips. Lastly, get ready to reap the benefits of all this attention. “If you’ve been taking care of your scalp and oiling it, your hair should look fuller, more luxurious and healthier,” he says.

Below, discover five pro-recommended products for taking care of protective hairstyles.

1/5

Noggin Oil

Wash

($20, nogginoil.com)

Skip the shower with Brian Phillips’ non-toxic cleansing Noggin Oil WASH spray. “Your whole head feels lighter after use as if you’ve washed your hair,” says Phillips.

Buy Now

2/5

Adwoa Beauty

Baomint Deep Conditioning Treatment

($51, Sephora)

Pre-appointment, prep your hair weekly with a penetrative deep conditioner under heat to lock in moisture before tucking it into your protective style.

Buy Now

3/5

Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross

Edge Control

($12, Sephora)

Touch up frizziness at the scalp, smooth stray baby hairs and protect against breakage with this five-star paste.

Buy Now

4/5

Design Essentials

Scalp & Skin Care Anti-Itch & Tension Relief Treatment

($10, designessentials.com)

To address itching and tension pains, Clara Amaguru recommends this soothing aloe and tea tree oil scalp and skincare treatment.

Buy Now

5/5

kitsch

Satin Sleep XL Adjustable Bonnet XL Satin Bonnet

($30, mykitsch.com)

Sleep peacefully and frizz-free with an extra large bonnet that will hold all of your hair overnight.

Buy Now

Check out our Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver curly hair salon guides.

A condensed version of this article first appeared in FASHION’s November issue. Find out more here.

The post Texture Talk: How to Care For Protective Hairstyles This Winter appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Deep cleanse

The key to a ridiculously good wash-and-go? Start with a clarifying shampoo to create a totally clean foundation stripped of all buildup. “I always emphasize clarifying because it strips the hair of any product, oils, debris or dead skin cells—things that could affect the scalp and hair and lead to excessive dryness and breakage,” says Maegan Berment, founder of and chief stylist at Crowned Melanin Beauty in Winnipeg. “Once you have clarified and removed any buildup, your hair is now ready to accept moisture back into it,” adds Shelly Guerin, owner of Honey Curly Hair Studio in Calgary, who recommends a clarifier free of stripping detergents (a.k.a. sulfates). And take your time. “Give your scalp some love and attention,” advises Guerin. “You shouldn’t just be doing a two-minute scrub and then not washing it again for a while.” As for frequency, using a clarifying shampoo every seven to 10 days or every two weeks is a pro-recommended rule of thumb—it just depends on lifestyle. “Someone who is constantly layering products should clarify once a week,” says Berment, adding that you can always follow up with a moisturizing shampoo if you are worried that the process will leave your hair too parched. And if you want to do a gentler cleanse in between the deeper ones, perhaps due to working out or having looser waves and curls that tend to get weighed down quickly, a moisturizing shampoo or cleansing conditioner will be your friend.

Condition and detangle

One important thing to remember is that curl definition loves hydration and hydration starts with water. “We forget that water is moisture,” says Guerin. “It’s definitely the most important ingredient that we should be factoring in.” This means making sure that your hair is sopping wet when you’re applying the next step: a deep conditioner. “This helps the conditioner travel through the hair cuticles, which will result in less tension when it comes to detangling,” adds Berment. “Water also helps you avoid overusing product.” Once your hair is coated with conditioner, diligent detangling can begin. “I alternate between using my hands and a Denman brush or wide-toothed comb,” says Berment, who sections clients’ hair with clips during the process, especially those with thick locks. “I’ll go in with my fingers and pull apart any single-strand knots.” Once hair is knot-free (note: detangling to the roots will aid in elongating your curls), let your deep conditioner sit for a bit to help hair retain as much moisture as possible before rinsing it thoroughly. Afterwards, it’s time for a leave-in. “A leave-in conditioner seals in all the moisture from your conditioning and detangling and also keeps hair soft for styling,” notes Berment.

Style

Depending on your curl pattern, your mileage from curl-defining products and techniques may vary, meaning there may be more steps needed. Both hairstylists recommend a water-based gel layered over your leave-in conditioner for amplifying springy curls and coils (“Tighter curls tend to have more moisture needs, and gels retain the most,” says Guerin) and a lightweight volumizing foam or mousse for looser curl patterns, which are prone to being weighed down. Again, don’t underestimate the importance of water: “Work in small sections, and rake your product through super-wet hair with either your fingers or a hair tool, like a Denman brush,” says Berment. (Tip: Keep your stylers in your shower so you can easily add more water as you go.) If your hair is especially dry or you live in a dry climate, Berment suggests taking the extra step of adding an oil-based topper (particularly if you have thick, tighter textures). For example, a moisturizing curl cream will help stop water from evaporating. And on the subject of tightly wound hair: It can sometimes clump together and seem undefined, which means a regular finger-raking process might not cut it. Other tried-and-true techniques? Shingling (applying a curl product through each curl to separate and smooth), finger coiling (twirling small sections of hair with a curl definer using your fingers) and two-strand twists (separating mini sections of product-coated hair into two pieces and wrapping them around each other as tightly as possible; hair is unravelled once it’s fully dry). Time-consuming, yes. But the results are beyond.

Dry

Guerin and Berment recommend using a hood dryer. The dome-shaped tool’s controlled heat reduces overall drying time and won’t blow hair around, allowing defined curls to set very quickly for a polished final look. There are many compact, portable options on the market, but if that’s not feasible, simply air-drying or using a diffuser attachment will do the job. And don’t touch. “Let your hair completely dry so you don’t disturb the curl pattern—you’ll get more longevity,” says Berment.

Extend

A good wash-and-go can take some time, so it’s helpful to know how to make your style last until the next washday comes around. Wearing a silk or satin bonnet at night will protect your mane from frizz-inducing friction while you sleep. It also helps retain moisture in the hair, notes Guerin. If your curls look a bit crushed come morning, reach for a fine-mist spray bottle filled with water or water mixed with a light conditioner for a quick refresh. (Berment personally loves cocktailing water and hydrating rosewater.) “Don’t oversaturate the hair,” she advises. “Just dampen it enough to make it flexible again.”

Reset, moisturize and style

This curated list of hair products and tools will help you master your next wash-‘n’-go.

1/12

Malibu C

Un-Do-Goo

($18, Walmart)

Buy Now

2/12

LUS

Scalp Scrubber

($20, LUS)

Buy Now

3/12

PrettyKind

Curl Defining Conditioner

($29, PrettyKind)

Buy Now

4/12

Drybar

Hold Me Hair Clips

($25, Sephora)

Buy Now

5/12

Denman

Original 7-Row Brush

($29, Trade Secrets)

Buy Now

6/12

Up North Naturals

Go-2 Hydrating Hair Milk

($19, Up North Naturals )

Buy Now

7/12

DevaCurl

Frizz-Fighting Volumizing Foam

($38, Chatters)

Buy Now

8/12

Uncle Funky’s Daughter

Curly Magic Curl Stimulator

($35, Cloré Beauty Supply)

Buy Now

9/12

CurlShoppe

Butter Twist Pudding

($18, Curly Girl Shop)

Buy Now

10/12

Conair

Pro Style Bonnet Dryer

($159, Amazon)

Buy Now

11/12

Pattern by Tracee Ellis Ross

Satin Cap

($29, Sephora)

Buy Now

12/12

Segbeauty

Hair Spray Bottle

($19, Amazon)

Buy Now

This article first appeared in FASHION’s October issue. Find out more here.

The post Texture Talk: How to Ace the Perfect Wash-and-Go appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Home to breathtaking sea views and mountainous landscapes, this city also has expert stylists and salons for natural hair necessities. Scroll on to explore Vancouver’s curl scene (and check back for new additions).

Alara Hair Solutions

 

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At Alara Hair Solutions, tick all your hair boxes from braiding and hair extension services to curl-strengthening treatments. If that weren’t enough, founder and celebrity stylist Clara Amaguru’s star-studded resume (including Vivica A. Fox and Jason Momoa) is sure to impress. “As more movie productions moved up to ‘Hollywood North’ [Vancouver], the demand increased for stylists that could especially work with [Black hair],” says Amaguru about her career journey into the film industry after opening her salon in 2003. In addition to being a film set regular, Amaguru is also an artistic educator and ambassador for Design Essentials, one of the leading multicultural hair product lines in North America.

Ammerose

Ammerose Hair Salon is where multi-talented stylists take a multicultural approach to styling. In the heart of downtown Vancouver, Ammerose offers over 20 salon services including braiding, beading, wash and styles and chemical treatments for all textures, putting inclusion at the forefront of its work. On its multicultural message: “It allows us to work with diverse styles and creates an opportunity for the fusion of new styles,” says a salon representative.

Axis Salon

 

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Axis Salon is home to in-demand curly cut connoisseur Dawn Archer. “My decision to focus on curly textured hair is rooted in a desire to create a safe space for people like me that have salon horror stories and haven’t been encouraged to love and accept how their hair grows naturally,” says Archer. On her signature cutting method, she adds: “I would say that my technique is more organic as I adapt to how the hair wants to move.” Archer also hosts a workshop called “Unapologetically Curly” on how to create a safe space for textured curly hair clients.

Her Royal Hair

 

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Her Royal Hair is a salon-meets-store where wigs and hair extensions are the main attraction. You can shop top quality human hair wigs and extensions at affordable prices both in-store and online, and, in the studio, the “celebrity style wig installation” is Her Royal Hair’s most sought after hair extension service. “The service includes customizing a human hair wig to the clients desired look and applying the wig to fit the clients needs. The undetectable lace material used helps to give the installation a flawless scalp-like look — the wig literally looks like it’s growing from the client’s scalp,” says a salon representative. “Wig installations can last anywhere from 2-4 weeks depending on the client’s skin type and after care.”

Kokopelli

 

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A post shared by Lala Vancouver Curl Specialist (@lalaartist)

For your next colouring service, visit Kokopelli Salon’s resident colour and curly cut specialist Lala Santos. Though colouring curls can be daunting, rest assured Santos carries out her colouring treatments with care. “In order to colour curls hair without damage, there first needs to be a consultation where I will learn about a client’s hair journey and, if necessary, do a strand test to see how their hair will react to be sure the colour won’t disrupt their curls,” she says. Santos is also the creator of the signature “Lala cut” for which she uses a dry-cutting technique to accurately shape curls.

The Texture Workshops

 

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Not a brick-and-motor salon per se, but this next one is definitely worth noting — especially for hair professionals. Hairstylists can benefit from a visit from The Texture Workshops team to master natural hair education. Founded by celebrity stylist Alicia Chowen, the team consists of two main educators: Michelle St Hill (natural hair specialist) and Mary Kiarie (braiding and wig application specialist). “Our two-day intro workshop includes history — because you need to know our story before touching our hair — product and curl knowledge, a lace-front wig application demo, braiding techniques and hands-on work with models,” says Chowen. Completing approximately thirty workshops to date, this accomplished group hosts public workshops and private in-salon bookings. Though based in Vancouver, classes are offered Canada-wide.

And be sure to check out our Toronto and Montreal curly hair salon guides.

The post Texture Talk: A Guide to Vancouver’s Best Curly Hair Salons appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Representation matters. When I was a kid, my childhood reading and TV and movie watching were often about worlds of mostly blue-eyed, blond-haired children who looked nothing like me. I truthfully can’t recall a powerful, strong Black role model that I could look up to in my youth.

This left me wanting to play only with my white Barbies, and for years I had a deep yearning to conform to a portrait of popular beauty designed by a Eurocentric society. It wasn’t until I was in my 20s that I truly began to take pride in my own natural looks. Let’s just say that I refuse to have my daughter live and think that way. I want her to always be proud of who she is, from her voluminous coils and chocolate skin to her Ghanaian-Caribbean background.

So, when I discovered the coffee-table book Glory: Magical Visions of Black Beauty by Kahran and Regis Bethencourt, the wife-and-husband photography duo behind Atlanta-based CreativeSoul Photography, I purchased it immediately. (Fun fact: Their work has earned them global recognition over the years and many viral call-outs from A-listers like Alicia Keys, Common and Taraji P. Henson.)

Inside the 256-page tome you’ll find a next-level collection of Kahran and Regis’s niche work: one-of-a-kind photographs of real-life Black youth (who are between five and 13 years old and hail from across the United States and countries in Africa) looking like true monarchs and flexing a whole range of natural hairstyles — not to mention they’re serving major fashion looks by Black designers. From cornrows adorned with colourful cowrie shells to asymmetrical afros to sculptural braids and twist-outs, afro-textured hair — and Black skin tones of every hue, for that matter — becomes a symbol of empowerment, beauty, self-care and individuality. “We really tried to showcase all types of natural hair, from 4C coils to looser textures, because there is still this sense of what is considered ‘good hair’ and what’s not within Black communities,” explains Kahran.

The book, I later discovered, was released in 2020 — a time when the world was not only grappling with a health pandemic but also finally facing a harsh light on anti-Black racism in many areas of society. To my mind, Kahran and Regis’s timing couldn’t have been better.

What makes Kahran and Regis’s dreamy imagery even more special as you flip through the pages is that alongside powerful quotes by famous figures — Nelson Mandela, Maya Angelou, Oprah Winfrey, Muhammad Ali — the duo provide space for the Black youth they feature to share their own stories and explore their dreams. Think an eight-year-old neuroscience expert who’s able to dissect mind-boggling topics, a 13-year-old with a clothing line aimed at combatting racism and colourism, young kids fighting discriminatory hair policies in schools that forbid certain Black hairstyles and children celebrating life despite health problems and disabilities.

“When we first started photographing kids, we focused more on showing the beauty and uniqueness of afro hair,” shares Kahran. “But we soon realized that these kids had amazing stories and were doing inspiring things. Sadly, that’s not what’s being highlighted or shown in the media, so we felt like we had an opportunity to give these kids a platform and share their voices with the world. That’s really how the idea for Glory came about. We wanted to extend the narrative to much more than just hair.”

The post-shoot reactions are heart-melting. “The kids are usually amazed to see themselves photographed in that way,” says Kahran. “The transformation isn’t just from the outside; it’s from the inside as well: Their chests stick out a little bit more, and they hold their heads higher.” Adds Regis: “And they continue to carry that confidence with them.”

And don’t be mistaken: CreativeSoul’s work is just as much for adults as it is for children, serving as an educational tool for all — even those living outside Black culture. Kahran says that when they share their images on social media, they often receive comments of awe and curiosity from unknowing minds. “We use our platform to educate as well as entertain,” she states.

In fact, Glory doesn’t live on my daughter’s bookshelf. No, no. It sits on display in our living room for all visitors to see, touch and learn from.

I truly can’t wait to regularly absorb those magnificent pages with my daughter as I watch her grow into her own person, reading her stories of young Black kids just like her doing incredible things and winning at life — stories for her to idolize and daydream about. It would bring me so much joy to see those page corners well worn.

And good news! Another coffee-table book is on its way, due to arrive in summer 2023, shares Kahran. “It will be called Crowned, and it will be a book of Black fairy tales,” she says. “Some are our own takes on existing fairy tales and African and African-American folklore stories, and others are ones we came up with. We’re super excited for it to be out in the world.” Excuse me: adding my name to the pre-order list ASAP.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s September issue. Find out more here. 

The post Texture Talk: Meet the Photography Duo Helping Black Youth Love the Skin They’re In appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Here, cobblestone streets lined with historic monuments host a well rounded posse of stylists and salons equipped for your natural hair needs. As we continue to research the best curly hair salons in Montreal, check back for future updates and new additions below.

Artizans 4/22

For the earth conscious curly client, consider booking your next appointment at eco-boutique and salon, Artizans 4/22. The eco-friendly ethos that drives this salon manifests in the selection of products used on and sold to clients. As part of Green Circle Salons — the beauty industry’s first sustainable salon solution designed to combat beauty waste and climate change — salon waste from hair clippings to product bottles at Artizans 4/22 are recycled, recovered and repurposed. Need a chic cut? A fresh set of faux locs perhaps? Pamper yourself comfortably and consciously here.

Aura Beauté

Collectively trained in Vidal Sassoon, Toni and Guy, Deva Curl, Rezo Cut and Cut it Kinky methods, Aura Beauté co-founders Cyan Caruso-Comas and Sherrie Virtue are the curl cut experts to book. Equality and inclusivity are highly valued at this spot — with gender neutral pricing offered to clients. “We’re tired of the pink tax that many women are familiar with,” say the stylists on equal-length haircuts taking the same amount of time regardless of gender. “We recognize that many people don’t fall into traditional gender binaries, and we want to create a space for all people to feel comfortable.”

Inhairitance

Known locally as a ‘curl spa’, Inhairitance founder Abisara Machold says that the focus of the salon is on the “health and celebration of curly hair textures.” After receiving a complimentary consultation to discover your ‘curl ID’, Inhairitance then offers a diverse selection of curly services from restorative treatments to vibrant curl colouring. Implementing no compromises on toxic ingredients, Inhairitance carries its own self-titled products and 14 other black and female owned natural hair brands. Aiming to spread natural hair knowledge that has been lost throughout history, in-house classes are also offered to hairdressers in practice. “The word ‘Inhairitance’ is not for nothing because it really connects you with your ancestry, your background and your pride where maybe you’ve felt shame before,” Machold tells FASHION.

Melissandre Coiffure Inc

 

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With an emphasis on African braiding techniques from twists to crochet braids, Melissandre Coiffure salon owner Melissandre Nsoumb delivers aesthetically pleasing results while considering hair health. “It takes a lot of time to take care of natural Afro hair, so braiding it requires an extra touch in order to not only allow it to grow properly but to protect it as well,” she says. “This goes a long way to reduce how much time my clients would normally have to engage in protecting their hair from breaking and getting dirty.” Nsoumb also offers specialized braiding classes at all levels.

Salon Académie Nancy Falaise

Inclusive of each unique curl pattern from loose waves to tighter coils, Salon Académie Nancy Falaise covers all the bases. Though tangible updates on a Quebec-based curly hair education petition launched by founder Nancy Falaise in 2020 are still pending, Falaise does offer her own occasional curl workshops teaching clients curl etiquette from wash to finish. Inspired by her own haircare journey post-breast cancer treatment, Falaise also tells FASHION that the salon now offers ‘PRP’ (Platelet-Rich Plasma), a regenerative hair treatment performed with a doctor to promote hair growth.

And be sure to check out our Toronto and Vancouver curly hair salon guides.

The post Texture Talk: A Guide to Montreal’s Best Curly Hair Salons appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Whether you’re looking to colour your curls or lengthen them with extensions, read on to discover some of the best curly hair salons in Toronto that understand the workings of textured hair.

Crown N’ Glory

Specializing in natural hair needs, Crown N’ Glory is Toronto’s Midtown go-to. The salon is run by mother daughter duo, Aisha and Anesia Loobie, whose own expertise in afro-textured hair not only lends itself to the salon’s curly-haired clients, but to the establishment’s curl classes, too. “We offer a variety of classes to haircare professionals of all levels. These classes give in depth training on cutting curly hair, basic braiding techniques, product knowledge and creating a flawless silk press,” says Aisha. Be they curious clients or parents struggling with curly-haired kiddies — come one, come all.

Curl Bar

If you’re in search of a curly cut, an appointment at the Curl Bar for a ‘Deva Cut’ is worth booking. Owner of the salon, Trudie Mulalu, ensures that what you see is what you get with this patented dry-cutting practice. “By cutting the hair dry, in its natural state, stylists are able to cut the curls where they live naturally, and thereby creating a beautiful shape. The stylist sees how each curl will fall and each individual curl is shaped according to where it lives.”

Hill Studio

Catering to a variety of curly hair inquiries from cuts to colours, Hill Studio one of our favourite Toronto salons that offers everything you need and a little more. Trained under the wing of leading stylists from New York to Paris, founder Allison Hill brings her worldly styling experience back to Toronto. Hill has since gone on to double the salon as a wellness space for the Black community, developing yoga, breath, mindfulness and anti-Black racism initiatives delivered by Black trauma-informed movement specialists, counsellors and therapists. “There is more than just hair going on here. It’s where creativity and healing meet,” says Hill.

Jazma Hair

Though we’ve witnessed the meteoric rise of the natural hair movement, there is no shame in the relaxing game when done professionally. Created by salon founder Asha McLeod, Jazma Hair offers a signature Wash & Wear relaxing procedure that’s not your average. “Wash and wear relaxer is the technique and process of working with your hair’s natural texture to achieve more softness, versatility and manageability. The curl releasing agent defines and enhances its natural beauty,” a salon representative says. While they reveal the demand for traditional relaxers have decreased, this texture release treatment has become the desired alternative for those seeking a looser curl pattern. Black Hair Care MasterClasses, an education program developed by Jazma, are also offered to professional hairstylists here.

JouJou Hair

Share stylists with the stars, from Tracy Moore and Marci Ien to Sasha Exeter and Keshia Chanté, at local celebrity hair hotspot, JouJou Hair Studio. Owned by L’Oréal Paris Canada hair expert Janet Jackson, this hair parlour is glowing with accolades, including ByBlacks People’s Choice Awards – Best Beauty Salon and the Black Canadian Awards – Best Beauty Destination. Welcoming each new client with a thorough hair consultation, JouJou Hair Studio prioritizes haircare first — and then their diverse-talent team perfects hairstyles from braids to colour transformations to silk presses.

SheBeenHair

If you’ve ever admired etalk co-anchor Tyrone Edwards’ signature locs, then you’d be admiring the work of Nakisha Straker, owner and lead stylist at SheBeenHair Studio. Since styling Edwards, Straker has seen an influx of male clients including pop-R&B singer Miguel and rapper Waka Flocka Flame. However, Straker’s expertise is not limited to locs. “I pride myself to be a master in textures, as I cater to a clientele of all ethnicities, creeds and races,” she says of her impressive ability to tackle many different styles, colours and cuts.

Kuhl.er Bar

At the Kuhl.er Bar, flawless wig installations and top quality extensions are the main attraction. “Wigs and extensions are an excellent option for our clients to switch up their look without causing damage to their natural hair,” shares the salon. Owner and lead stylist Cree Barrocks creates custom hair colours, while wig specialist Jae R seamlessly blends wig hairlines with every skin tone, and braids and extension specialist Patricia Lee formulates personalized install methods to suit each client’s hairline and density.

Urban Curls Boutique

Though colouring curls can be daunting, the team at UrbanCurls boutique is well equipped to colour all curls and coils. Here, stylists use a “curl colour fusion” technique, expert Keina Morgan tells us. “This is a form of using highlights and balayage to create a highlight and lowlight effect that helps to give amazing blending in super coily textures.” For lasting strength, the process is sealed with luxurious Olaplex and colour lock treatments. The best part: each client receives a take-home guide noting products used during the service, best future practices and curated product recommendations.

worldSALON

Since opening its doors to Toronto in 1989, worldSALON has been heralded as one of the city’s most sustainably-focused salon stops. “Beauty without the toxic hangover” is what they preach and practice. As recipients of the first Environmental Stewardship Award – Green Circle Salons in 2010 and the Green Champion Award – Environmental Defence in 2015, it came as no surprise when founder and hairstylist Brian Phillips told FASHION that the salon uses solar panels to heat its hot water. Sustainable haircuts and healthy hair colouring are most in demand here, and you can be rest assured that every service (including loc installation and maintenance) is completed with only the cleanest products on the market. This Green Circle-certified salon also doubles as the flagship for green beauty line WORLD Hair Skin.

Ziba Style Bar

Modern aesthetics and fresh design elements welcome guests to Ziba Style Bar. With a focus on “inclusivity over niche,” stylists are versed in all hair textures and reflect the multicultural diversity of Toronto, says Founder Solange Ashoori. Since Ashoori launched an Ontario petition in 2020 to mandate textured hair education in beauty schools, she tells FASHION it has received over 11,000 signatures with more to come on the movement. “It’s clear the demand is there,” she says. Though the ministry hasn’t been responsive, Ashoori says she has had help from local politicians, organizations and businesses.

Zoma Beauty Salon

Zoma Beauty Salon owner Elizabhet Kiffle and her go-to assistant Ester both boast expertise in all types of curls, and are well-versed in doing an array of textured hairstyles, from sleek blow-outs to locs. But the salon’s true specialty is braids, and, on any given day, you can spot both men and women sitting in the shop getting their hair washed and plaited. “I grew up in braids,” expresses Elizabhet, going on to explain that in her home country of Ethiopia, plaits play a heavily ingrained role in the culture. Just turn to the striking portraits and artwork dotted all over the colourful salon and you’ll come to learn about the significance different braided hairstyles hold in various Ethiopian tribes and groups.

And be sure to check out our Montreal and Vancouver curly hair salon guides.

The post Texture Talk: A Guide to Toronto’s Best Curly Hair Salons appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Instead of beginning the exhausting regimen of reaching for dye, Salih chose to accentuate her silvery strands by weaving grey-coloured braiding hair into her extra-long plaits. “I don’t know why society is so adamant about pushing us toward this Peter Pan syndrome where we have to stay young to be relevant,” she says. “When I looked at myself in the mirror and saw those first few strands of grey, I was just proud that I had lived long enough to see grey hair. I come from a place where not a lot of people live to see that — where it’s a privilege to get wrinkles. Grey is wisdom. I wanted to lean into that.”

When Salih was just five years old, her family fled persecution in Sudan, a country torn apart by civil war. Their odyssey took them through multiple countries until they were able to find asylum in Canada. Salih was 11. “I don’t think there’s been a time since I left when it’s been stable enough — safe enough — to spend a prolonged period of time back home; there’s just always been one thing or another going on,” says the 36-year-old.

Far from her homeland, Salih decided to seize the opportunity to build a new life on her own terms. “When I came to Canada, there was a sense of having found a place where I could start creating something for myself,” she says. “Where I could flourish and grow and start saying no to things—things that were acceptable in previous generations.” Things like child marriage, Salih reveals.

As the eldest of five children, Salih prioritized pursuing an education. “I wanted something more for my siblings,” she explains. “Doing the work — getting myself educated — meant a lot to me because I knew it would trickle down to them and show them another way.”

Salih was also determined to address her poor mental health, caused by post-migration trauma. “I have complex PTSD, and I wanted to find joy,” she says. “I opened myself up to a lot of different avenues — therapy, the gym — to look for healing.” But it wasn’t until she tried yoga that the restorative gates were flung wide open. “At the end of my first class — in that final shavasana pose — the peace and quiet I experienced was unlike anything I’d ever felt before,” she shares. “That moment provided relief from the baggage I had been carrying and the pain I had refused to let myself shed.”

Hooked on yoga’s freeing powers, Salih became inspired to pursue teacher training, a venture that would completely shatter her shell. “It wasn’t until my first yoga training that I actually let go and cried heavy tears; I met some of my suppressed emotions for the first time,” she reveals. “I remember my legs getting weak and collapsing — it was the best cry of my life.”

Salih’s deep passion for yoga inspired her to not only become a studio director at BIPOC-owned Modo Yoga in Scarborough, Ont., and a Lululemon ambassador but also found her own non-profit, Red Ma’at (pronounced “Muh-aht”; the name is rooted in Salih’s Egyptian and Sudanese background) Collective. Using a trauma-informed lens to help guide practices that offer a safe, healing environment, Salih’s organization provides free community classes to marginalized women of colour, with a focus on Black and Indigenous bodies. “When it comes to Black and Indigenous women, we share so much when it comes to being unseen, unheard and forgotten,” she declares.

Through outreach to women’s shelters and community centres across the Greater Toronto Area, Salih invites women 16 years and older to register for her classes at a studio inside Lululemon’s Queen Street West store. The goal is to give women access to a beautiful space where they can truly connect. “While the movement is very profound and powerful, the ‘seeing’ and ‘hearing’ is just as important,” she says. “As a Black woman, I’m tired of having to diminish myself to fit into what society deems worthy. My hairstyle is very loud and obvious. I accept every grey strand, and I’m making it louder. My hair is my crown.”

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Summer issue. Find out more here. 

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“It’s been projected in culture that the Black woman isn’t pretty, and we carry that mentality as Black women,” she says. “By that point, I was exhausted. Every time I was on a red carpet, it felt like a strange mixture of my belonging on a red carpet because I was dressed appropriately and my trying to be myself — and I could never find the balance. When I took the wig off, I found the balance.”

Davis’s coils would go on to turn heads again during an episode of the freshman season of her hit ABC show How to Get Away With Murder. While preparing for bed, the high-powered attorney Annalise Keating played by Viola Davis, removed her makeup and her wig, revealing a compressed head of curly hair that had been tucked up underneath. The powerful scene instantly went viral — it was a standout moment that showcased the behind-closed-doors beauty preparation process of so many Black women to the rest of the world.

But for the Oscar-, Emmy- and Tony-winning performer and L’Oreal Paris ambassador, her most pivotal Hollywood hair moment came with her 2018 film Widows, a lead role she performed while wearing her natural afro for the entire movie. The hair experience, which came at the suggestion of director Steve McQueen, helped break down long-standing hang-ups Davis had within an industry where Black women’s beauty onscreen has often been measured by the looseness of their curl patterns and, as a result, highly textured hair has rarely been given the airtime it deserves.

“Whenever you get a role as an actress, your hair is the number one thing that you feel can transform you into a character, but I never felt like my own hair was an option,” says Davis. “There’s something about connecting natural hair that’s kinky to ‘what’s not beautiful’—and not only to what’s not beautiful but that natural hair isn’t even in the conversation of beauty. My big thing now is that at least I can see my hair as an option.”

Whether it be on red carpets (like the 2022 Cannes Film Festival) or on the big screen, Davis’s public hair evolution has been neck and neck with her long road to self-acceptance, she says. It’s a journey that found the 56-year-old trying to erase her natural beauty when she was younger: “from my lips to my nose to putting a lot of products in my hair to straighten it, which totally destroyed it,” she recalls.

Davis’s current makeup choices also reflect that inner growth. “The makeup that makes me feel the most empowered is the makeup that enhances what I already have; especially as I get older, I want myself to be the palette,” she shares, adding that red lipstick holds a special status in her kit. “I spent so much of my younger years feeling like my lips were too big,” she recounts. “Then, one day, I loved my lips, and now I want to show them off. That’s what red does: I feel like my lips enter the room before I do, and I love that!”

Ahead, discover more of our favourite Viola Davis curly hair moments in the gallery below.

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

Photography courtesy of Shamar Benoit

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

Photography courtesy of Getty Images

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2015 Academy Awards

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2018 Toronto International Film Festival

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2018 Academy Awards

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2019 EE British Academy Film Awards

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2021 Academy Awards

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2021 Golden Globe Awards

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2022 Cannes Film Festival

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2022 Cannes Film Festival

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2022 Cannes Film Festival

This article first appeared in FASHION’s April 2021 issue. Find out more here. 

The post Texture Talk: Viola Davis’s Best Curly Hair Moments appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

My mother walked briskly down the aisles searching out the products we couldn’t find in our hometown of London, Ont. I quietly trailed behind her, tracing my finger over the colourful boxes and bottles that lined the shelves. The boxed hair dye display was by far my favourite. Rows and rows of packages featuring beautiful Black women showing off kinks, coils, waves, braids and straightened hair in all shades caught my eye. They smiled at me blissfully, and I noted some of their sultry over-the shoulder gazes. I admired the variety of potential hair hues, all described as shades of black. I picked up a box of “Jet Black” and held it next to a box of “Soft Black.” The difference was subtle but distinctive. It was an early message for me that while being Black may sound straightforward, the nuance and plethora of our beauty is not.

I waited quietly for my turn to get my hair done, secretly hoping that the grown women chatting around me about men and sex and the coworkers they couldn’t stand wouldn’t notice I was listening and digress. I watched as they each took their turn in the stylist’s chair, timidly unwrapping their head scarves and apologizing for the sorry state of their hair. I studied how the hairdresser whipped out her tools, creams, sprays and potions and transformed them all — including my mother and me — into beautiful, confident beings who couldn’t pass a reflective surface without a satisfied glance.

Part of the magic, beyond the inspirational visuals, was what the supply store could offer: a way to create something stunning for yourself in the comfort and privacy of your own space. My excitement about my mother’s purchases — which she made based on what looks she wanted to create for us — would turn into a sense of pride when we glimpsed the final results in the bathroom mirror and witnessed the transformation we had concocted on our own.

It went beyond hair, too. When I got older, my friends would raid the aisles of drugstores and department stores looking for foundation shades like “Tawny” and “Alabaster” while I hung back quietly and decided on a clear lipgloss or two. But at the Black beauty-supply store, there was no question of whether my beauty mattered. Mom was always able to choose from a wide variety of shades for her deep-brown skin as well as for her signature dark-red lipstick. I soon learned how to experiment with my own style, which often included the kind of accessories found by the cash register — glamorous hoop earrings, hair beads, head wraps and a mass of other promising trinkets. I didn’t have to wonder if I would find items that fit how I wanted to look. I just had to walk the aisles and grab as much as my budget would allow.

However, like with any utopia, that space of freedom and creativity also contained messages that confused me about my relationship with beauty and Blackness. Early on, the boxes of Just for Me hair relaxer featuring adorable young Black girls with bouncy, healthy-looking straight hair made me question whether my thick ropes of braids were pretty enough. Was there another way my hair was supposed to look? My mom always pushed me past another particular aisle, telling me to keep walking. It housed skin-bleaching products that had descriptors explaining in no uncertain terms that lighter skin was preferred.

Now, when I glance around the aisles of any supply shop, I feel they tell my story. There’s the beloved hair dye section where I finally picked up a box of “Red Hot Mary” (named for Mary J. Blige); it promised much, but my hair didn’t come out as bright as I had hoped. And there’s the dye my mom eventually asked me to apply for her to help cover her grey. I’m teased by all the creams and potions I experimented with ad nauseam to “elongate” and “stretch” my natural kinks and curls after I decided I was done with the damage caused by chemical straighteners. (I’d hoped I would look like Tracee Ellis Ross; I didn’t.) As a mother, I know these stories are far from over. When I introduce my own two young daughters to these hallowed halls of Black beauty, I know they’ll find the magic in discovering what it means to feel beautiful.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s May issue. Find out more here.

The post Texture Talk: Why Black Beauty Supply Stores Will Forever Be Sacred Spaces appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

I truly see my type 4 curls as a gift from the hair gods, but I won’t lie: sporting a healthy and well-kept large afro makes you work for it in terms of a haircare routine. And as I embraced the most demanding, exhausting, exhilarating and rewarding chapter of my life (a big shout-out to all the fellow mamas out there), I found my regular hair routine becoming harder and harder to accomplish. My long curls looked like a disheveled mess most days and a pineapple puff updo quickly became my hair’s best friend.

Between juggling the demands of a family, home and career, I recently decided that I desperately needed a hair change-up that better suited my new busy lifestyle: something quick and low-maintenance that still made a strong statement with my natural texture. Cue the cropped afro.

Whether you’re transitioning away from protective styles, growing out hair that’s had a little too much chemical processing, or are simply ready for a big chop like myself, a short afro hairstyle has so many eye-catching possibilities (not to mention looks bomb with a pair of statement earrings!). From the archetypal afro cut — a mini version of the iconic seventies style — to a modern take on the high top, we’ve rounded up 32 cropped afro hairstyles spotted on the Fall 2022 runways and big-city streets to inspire your next trip to the salon. Click on, friends, click on.

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Jil Sander

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Budapest Select

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Nensi Dojaka

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Bianca Saunders

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Aadnevik

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Fendi

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Budapest Select

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GCDS

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Eudon Choi

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Labrum London

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London Street Style

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Laquan Smith

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Markarian

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Milan Street Style

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Paris Street Style

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Paris Street Style

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New York Street Style

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New York Street Style

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Sohuman

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Versace

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Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

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Third Crown

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Hermès

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Sergio Hudson

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Ulla Johnson

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Hermès

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New York Street Style

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Proenza Schouler

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Paris Street Style

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Paris Street Style

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Paris Street Style

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Giambattista Valli

The post Texture Talk: An Ode to the Cropped Afro appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

A simple “high puff hairstyles” search on Pinterest is sure to inspire even the most amateur inquirer with a stream of innovative ways to elevate the classic look. In fact, the social platform predicts these trending “puff love” searches will continue to fuel this look’s popularity in 2022. “It’s been around, but I think what’s making high-puff really cool now is all the creative variations of it,” says Janet Jackson, a pro hairstylist and L’Oréal Paris hair expert.

Looking to elevate your puff? Scroll on.

Stock the right tools

While there are many ways to reach high puff perfection, there are a few key items that can help set the foundation. Stock up on elastic bands of various sizes so you can customize your look to your hair texture. (You can even cut and tie traditional cloth elastics to get the perfect fit.) Other necessities? Hair pins, a hard brush and a slicking product, if you want to achieve that ultra-sleek finish. “For ultimate polish with this style, I like using pomades and cream pastes, which allow you to manipulate the hair a lot easier than with a gel,” says Jackson.

Build your foundation

 

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All curls are not created equal. Though Jackson says any hair type can pull off this look, your curl pattern and hair length may affect the way you do your ‘do. Type 3 or 4 textures naturally have that puff look, whereas those with looser curl patterns may have to put in a little extra work. “If you have type 3 or 4 hair, depending on the length, you can simply pick it out or use hairspray to set it into place. Those with type 1 or 2 hair can still achieve that puffy texture by pre-braiding, teasing or even creating knots on top of their head and pining them in place,” says Jackson.

Elevate, elevate, elevate!

How you style your hair is a form of self-expression, so let loose! If your puff isn’t quite as voluminous or as long as you’d like, textured hair extensions can be a great way to cheat the system. Elevate your extensions by switching up your colour to add a bit of creative flair, suggests Jackson.  You can also double the fun by creating two puffs for a space bun look. “Instead of parting your hair straight down the middle, switch it up by parting on an angle or even creating a zig zag part,” says Jackson. To spice things up even more, consider incorporating braids either at the base of your look, or outside your puff.

Make it shine

Up the ante by getting experimental with your baby hairs and accessories. The styling possibilities are endless when it comes to shaping baby hairs, with countless variations of loops and swirls to play with. “You can definitely go wild with baby hairs and you can even add accessories,” says Jackson. Let Euphoria be your guide and try adding rhinestones atop your baby hairs and throughout your look to turn your casual days into editorial evenings.

The post Texture Talk: 4 Ways to Perfect Your High Puff Hair Look appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

“The goal of DreamGirls is to break the stereotype that Black women can’t have long natural hair,” says Thompson. In 2006, she and Wilson opened their salon in Los Angeles, followed by a second location, in Sacramento, in 2008, and began their Healthy Hair Program to offer professional services for women looking to grow their hair.

In March 2020, during the pandemic, they launched their Healthy Hair Care System product line to allow women across the globe to care for their hair at home. The system not only repairs, restores and revives damaged locks but also encourages women to embrace their curls and coils by giving their textured hair some serious TLC.

The sisters remain dedicated to teaching their customers about growing and maintaining hair. “Black women have been bombarded with stereotypes about not having any hair or being bald, forcing them to wear a weave or wig,” says Wilson. “We’ve debunked that myth through the hundreds of women who have grown their hair using our system and products.”

Start with a healthy scalp

“When your scalp is clean and free of any buildup, including dandruff, natural oils and excessive amounts of product, it creates an environment that promotes hair growth,” says Thompson. “Remember: The scalp is your foundation for hair growth, so it’s very important to take care of it.”

Consider your habits

Several factors can cause buildup and contribute to poor scalp health. “For example, the temperature of the water that you wash your hair with can affect its health,” says Wilson. “When the temperature is too hot, it can dry out your hair, strip it of essential oils and damage the follicles.” To get rid of buildup without causing damage, wash your hair with lukewarm water.

Establish a routine

Wash with shampoo and conditioner every two to three weeks, which will cleanse your hair without stripping it dry, and use a deep conditioning treatment every six weeks. The sisters also recommend following the LOC method, which is a moisturizing layering technique that consists of leave-in conditioner, oil and cream.

Embrace protective styles

A protective style gives hair a break from everyday wear and tear. “Weaves, buns, cornrows and twists are great hairstyle options that are easy to maintain and keep hair safely tucked away,” explains Thompson. However, make sure your protective style doesn’t pull too tightly on your scalp, especially if your scalp is on the sensitive side. “If your hair is styled too tightly, it can pull the follicles straight out of the scalp and cause sores, tension or even alopecia.”

This article first appeared in FASHION’s Winter 2022 issue.

The post Texture Talk: The DreamGirls Sisters’ Top Natural Hair Growth Tips appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

If you’re wondering how tools and chemicals designed for hair actually create this damage in the first place, you’re not alone. The short answer is major damage to your hair’s cuticle. Both straightening and dyeing your hair lifts the hair’s cuticle and opens your hair up to further damage. Anything you do from this point on is to repair the outer cuticle of your hair in an attempt to bring back that healthy appearance. We spoke to Toronto-based hairstylist Sally John to get some of her top tips to repair damage and restore volume, moisture and shine to your curly hair.

 

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Establish a realistic routine

No matter what your hair goals are, having an established routine will help you get there. John recommends going for regular trims and talking with your stylist to assess your goals. Have them evaluate your hair, assess the damage and recommend specific products to add to your routine, including a shampoo and conditioner that will help ease your ravaged hair. If you’re trying to repair curly hair damage due to colour-processing, use a colour-safe shampoo to help minimize touch-ups (and further damage). A root touch-up spray can also help you cover up pesky greys or roots in between appointments to minimize your hair’s exposure to dye.

 

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Rebuild broken bonds

John reminds us that one of the tell-tale signs of damaged, textured hair is when it gets knotted at the drop of a hat. “If your hair is tangling, it’s probably because you have split ends,” she says. This is particularly true for tighter textures. John advises to keep an eye out for single strand knots, especially during the detangling process. To battle tattered ends, it’s important to establish and maintain a deep conditioning routine. Look for a concentrated treatment which will help to strengthen and repair bonds overtime.

Try a hot oil treatment

One of the first signs of damaged hair is a noticeable loss of moisture. High protein oils like coconut oil and castor oil are well known for their ability to deeply penetrate the hair shaft as well as restore moisture and shine to hair that has lost its lustre. When applying this type of treatment, it’s best to start at your scalp and work your way down, so your roots can get some much-needed TLC. Mix your favourite oils in an applicator bottle and then place the bottle in hot water to heat up (do not microwave!). Once you’ve applied the oils to your scalp (always test for temperature safety first) cover your hair with a shower cap and let the treatment work its magic for 30 minutes. Rinse, condition and wait for your glorious shine to be restored. Repeat once a week, as needed.

Limit styling and protect your hair overnight

Protecting your hair while you sleep can go a long way. If you’re using a standard cotton pillowcase, the friction from your head moving alone can contribute to waking up with frizz and split ends. Instead, wrap your hair with a silk scarf or use a silk pillowcase, which will help to minimize stress on your strands. Anytime you attempt to style your hair, there is the chance of causing further damage. John recommends putting your hair into a protective style such as braids or a weave, to limit how much you manipulate your hair on a daily basis. “Sew-ins are great because you can play with colour and length without having to commit. Wigs can also be a good alternative, but look for a style that can be installed without glue, which can be damaging in its own right,” she says. You should also be weary of having a protective style installed with too much tension, which can also be the cause of thinning and hair loss, especially around your hairline. “If you feel like your weave or extensions have been installed too tightly, tell your stylist before you leave their chair,” says John. A few weeks with a too-tight install can take months, or even years, to repair. To help repair thinning edges, ensuring they are constantly moisturized is the best method to encourage growth. Use a leave-in cream daily and implement a repairing hair mask multiple times a week. “Applying castor oil along your edges before bed is your best friend,” adds John.

The post Texture Talk: How to Repair Heat and Colour Damage appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Holiday Look: The party-ready pony

Delve into ’90s glam with Issa Rae’s take on the sky-high ponytail. Start by using a dense nylon or boar bristle brush to gather all of your hair into a high pony. “You may need to brush through the hair around your face a couple of times to make sure there are no bumps,” says Cruz. From there, secure with two elastics instead of one (for extra snatch appeal) and finish off the look with edge cream to brush baby hairs back with a toothbrush for a red carpet-worthy finish, shares Cruz. And voila — you’ve got one of what is sure to be many curly hairstyles primed for your next holiday hang.

Holiday Look: The braided beehive

If you’ve recently experienced the urge to don braids, you’re not alone. Leave it to Tessa Thompson to lead the charge, but with a twist. Cruz suggests leaving the actual braiding to the professionals to ensure proper care and prevent damage. To transform your braids into a party-ready style, leave out a few face-framing strands, like the WestWorld alum does here, and gather the rest at the very crown of your head and secure into a high pony with a strong elastic. Divide the pony into three sections and braid all the way to ends, securing with another elastic. Twist your big braid into a bun, tucking the ends under your bun. Keep the whole thing in place by using extra-large bobby pins (slide them in in pairs in the shape of an ‘X’ for an extra hold).  Take the whole look to the next level by adding a little sparkle. “Get festive by adding metal cuffs or beads. If you’re stumped on inspo, Etsy has an amazing selection of diamonds and stars,” says Cruz.

Holiday Look: The sleek and sculpted wave

Love it or hate it, gel is back — yep, you heard right. Jodie Turner-Smith stuns on the red carpet with sculptural finger waves that provide a serious dose of glam. For this look, you’ll want to start with damp hair. “Using a generous amount, completely saturate your hair with a strong hold gel,” notes Cruz. Now for the tricky part: “Using a fine-tooth comb, comb hair down in a dramatic S pattern while holding the hair into place against your head until you’ve achieved your desired wave pattern.” Once that’s all done and dusted, let hair air dry completely to set hard with a high shine. And there you have it, proof that gel can still look perfectly chic while you’re sipping spiked cocoa at your next holiday shaker.

The post Texture Talk: Celeb-Approved Holiday Styles for Curly, Textured Hair appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Time to trim

It’s time for a cut “if your ends appear thin and wispy versus your mid-lengths or if the shape of your original hairstyle is growing out,” explains François. If you have kinky hair, one of the telltale signs is when the ends of your strands begin to tangle consistently. For many, length can be one of the most treasured elements of textured hair, especially if you’ve been blessed with extremely tight curls. Even if you’re looking to maintain your length, regular trims every three to four months will keep hair at its healthiest, says Amiel. “Snipping those ends on a regular basis will stop them from splitting down the shaft.” It can also help with length retention and promote hair growth in the long run.

Prep work

The next step is to book a consultation. Both Amiel and François agree that you should have a conversation with your stylist prior to your appointment so that both of you are clear on your expectations. This is also the best time for your stylist to share the benefits of cutting more or less hair than you intended so you can make an informed decision. Arrive at your appointment with your hair styled in its most natural state or in the way you will be wearing it post-cut. “It’s best to wash it the day of or the day before, allowing it to dry in its natural state without manipulating it,” recommends Amiel. For best results, skip out on any type of bun, ponytail or braid and avoid wearing hats, clips, scarves or heavy oils.

Appointment-day essentials

Once you arrive at your curly haircut appointment, what can you expect from your stylist? Amiel, who gave Kehlani that coveted pixie cut, likes to snip hair curl by curl in order to get the best results. The beautiful thing about curly hair is that, like snowflakes, no two curls are the same. In order to achieve a somewhat uniform appearance, it’s important to give each curl special attention. As the process begins, it may look like the stylist is cutting a lot of hair, but there’s no general rule when it comes to cutting, says François. “The amount that is cut will depend on the rate of hair growth, how long it’s been since your last trim, your lifestyle and whether you’re looking to maintain, shorten or extend your overall hair length.”

Post-cut care

All roads lead back to your stylist. Amiel recommends documenting the cutting and styling process and using the products that have been recommended for you. He also emphasizes steering clear of heat styling tools like straighteners and blow-dryers. In fact, stretching your hair in any capacity should be avoided at all costs. “Let each curl or coil fall and form the ringlet it wants without manipulation,” says Amiel. “For best results, don’t even put your hair in a bun or a ponytail until it’s completely dry. If you pull your wet or damp hair back while stretching it and force it to dry elongated, your curl pattern will be weakened. This is as damaging as using a blow-dryer and round brush.” Finally, if you get a curly haircut you regret, remember that it’s hair and it will grow back.

This is article first appeared in FASHION’s November 2021 issue.

The post Texture Talk: Preparing and Caring For a Curly Cut appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

“A blowout consists of three steps, the wash, the prep, and the blowdry. Each step is super important to the end result, as is using products that are meant to not only go with your personal hair texture, but also your end goal,” says La Fond. For example, if you have very curly hair, but want a sleek and straight blow out, be sure to wash your hair with a shampoo that will help you extend those silky results.

Once out of the shower, prep your hair right away, since the sooner your hair begins to air dry the harder it will be to work against your natural texture. “Make sure you prep the hair to not only protect it against heat damage, but to also make sure it’s moisturized and nourished,” says LaFond. Spritz on a detangling protectant spray from root to tip, and for an extra layer of protection, apply a couple pumps of a lightweight hair oil that will act like a barrier against heat. If you have highlights in your curls, LaFond says to target those areas specifically with the oil to ensure they stay extra protected. “When working with textured hair, you always want to make sure you’re not damaging your curl pattern with the blowout, so you can always restore your original coil afterwards.”

One of the most important parts of ensuring a successful blowout is dividing your hair into sections before you get started. “Highly textured hair really expands as you’re blow drying it, so making sure you properly section, coil and clip up the hair you’re not working on ensures that the rest of your hair stays out of the way,” LaFond explains. Dividing the sections so they’re the same width as the brush you’re using will also allow you to completely dry one section at a time with more ease. An electric blowdry brush can make your life a lot easier since it does double-duty and frees up your hands. However, if you’re using a standard brush, consider how long it’s been lying around. “Women are always using brushes that they’ve had forever! If the bristles are bent or broken they’re going to damage your hair. Throw those old brushes out and invest in new ones that you’re able to glide through your hair easily. Sometimes it’s not your hair that is tangled; sometimes it’s the brush!”

Next, dry each section one at a time, working from top to bottom so you’re never putting wet hair on top of dried hair. “It’s important to start at the root first. It’s the area that is the toughest to smooth out, especially if it’s starting to dry on its own,” says LaFond. Once you’ve worked the root from all angles and you’re satisfied with the hair’s consistency, move to the end of the section, finishing with the middle (which tends to dry last). “Move like how you would brush your hair if it were dry. You can’t take a brush from the root and just move it all the way down. You have to start at the ends and work your way up to get those coils out and get it smooth.”

To get the most out of your completed blowout, smooth your strands with a few drops of hydrating hair oil. When you go to bed, wrap your hair into one large coil on the top of your head and keep it protected by covering it with a silk scarf. Be sure to wear a tight and secure shower cap to lock out humidity while you shower. Heading to the gym? LaFond suggests preventative measures: apply a dry shampoo to your roots and along your hairline, then cover with a sweatband to help absorb as much moisture as possible.

The post Texture Talk: Blowout Curly Hair With Naeemah LaFond appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Daily maintenance is key 

When polishing up your protective hairstyle on the daily, try to refrain from using gel or other products on the baby hairs around your hairline more than twice a week, and for the days that a little extra care is a must, use a water-based formula whenever possible. The steam from your shower allows it to evaporate easily, which will leave you with less build-up in the long run.  For the days you can’t help but feel a little less than fresh, try a little “lift-and-shake.” Use your favourite metal hair pick to get to the root of your style, and move the comb in and out to help lift some of the dirt and dead skin cells. Set that stuff free by tipping your head upside down and using your hands to shake it away.

Soften and detangle your natural hair

Immediately after removing your braids, weave or any other protective style, the first thing you’ll likely notice is an unfortunate ring of dust that has accumulated near your scalp. If you’ve been rocking braids with extensions, it’ll likely be most visible where the extension meets your natural hair. Immediately after taking out your extensions, begin the clean-up process by softening. A great DIY method is an apple cider vinegar solution. Simply mix one cup of apple cider vinegar with two cups of water in a spray bottle and spray directly onto the areas in question.

Prepare for wash day

 

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You’re probably itching to wash your hair at this point, but first you’re going to want to detangle your strands to remove the knots that have undoubtedly accumulated whilst in a protective style. Using a pre-shampoo treatment, such as this prebiotic one, will not only make the detangling process a breeze, but also work to start cleansing away dirt. After detangling, a little extra TLC for your scalp will go a long way. Try an exfoliating treatment to help further remove build-up and balance your scalp environment, which are key to healthy hair growth.

Time to lather up

Finally, it’s your shampoo’s time to shine. Hit the shower with a cleansing and hydrating shampoo that will not only help to free your hair of any remaining dirt and oil, but also keep it soft and manageable with hydrating ingredients such as shea butter, aloe vera, glycerin and jojoba oil.

The post Texture Talk: Caring For Your Scalp While in a Protective Style appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

We’re here to make that process a little less tedious by breaking down some of the most common curl care ingredients along with some product recommendations to fill the void in your routine. We also tapped celebrity hairstylist and Maui Moisture ambassador Alexander Armand—whose A-list client roster includes Naomi Campbell and Winnie Harlow—for his expertise and go-to curl tips.

Introducing your new friend Glycerin

If there’s one point we really want to drive home, it’s that moisture is bae, especially when it comes to curls. If you’re looking for a product that’s going to moisturize, hydrate or quench your hair, take a look at its ingredients list and make sure it contains our good pal Glycerin. Arguably the most effective humectant (an ingredient that is able to retain moisture while maintaining the integrity of the other properties in the product), glycerin is odourless, colourless and extremely hydrating—not to mention inexpensive, so the likelihood of you finding it in some of your favourite products is high. Incorporating a leave-in product or conditioner that contains glycerin will help to really lock in that moisture your hair’s craving.

The Maui Moisture Nourish & Moisture + Coconut Milk Conditioner and Weightless Oil Mist are both excellent examples of what glycerin can accomplish. The conditioner is Armand’s personal “holy grail product” that he deems essential for detangling and hydrating curly hair. This silent star combines already hydrating ingredients like aloe vera and coconut oil to not only give you the hydration your hair needs but also seal it in.

An oldie, but a goodie: Castor Oil

Now that your curls are healthy and hydrated, it’s time to focus on your hair goals. If thickening, lengthening, or repairing your locks is on the top of your list, look no further than castor oil.

“Castor oil has been a staple in the natural hair community since the beginning of time because of its many [natural] benefits,” Armand says.

As a fatty acid, it has been proven to boost shine, increase hair shaft flexibility, and is also antimicrobial. Not to mention it’s made up of 90 per cent ricinoleic acid, which is proven to promote blood vessel dilation and as a result, an increased flow of oxygen-rich and nutrient-rich blood to your hair follicles that will lead to increased hair growth.

Maui Moisture’s Thicken and Restore + Bamboo Fibre Shampoo is the perfect product if you’re looking to implement Castor oil into your daily hair care routine. While shampoos are often associated with being overly drying or stripping, this fortifying product is a blend of bamboo fibres, castor oil and neem oil designed to strengthen, restore and hydrate damaged hair.

Proteins = gains, right?

If your hair feels limp, brittle or has a lacklustre appearance, it could be a major indication of too little or too much protein, according to Armand. Because hair itself is a protein, if you use products that are too rich in protein, it can lead to stiffness and breakage. On the flip side, too little can cause your hair to be weak, fragile, and also lead to breakage.

“My rule of thumb is to use products that have nutrient-rich ingredients that provide protein, moisture and hydration,” says Armand. It’s important to find that perfect sweet spot and one way you can do so is by incorporating a protein-centric product into your regular hair care routine, such as Maui Moisture’s Lightweight Curls + Flaxseed Shampoo and Conditioner duo. Flaxseed is an excellent source of protein (inside and out), and using a lightweight cleansing and hydrating duo that’s a high source of it is a great way to integrate more protein into your routine without the risk of overprocessing.

The truth about alcohol

The use of alcohol in the natural hair care community has been a point of controversy for quite some time. While the dominant consensus is to avoid alcohol at all costs, believe it or not, not all alcohol is bad for your hair. Short-chain alcohols like Ethanol, Propanol and Benzyl (among others) definitely should be avoided because not only do they dry out your hair, they can also cause frizz. However, when certain alcohols are paired with hydrating ingredients, they can actually be quite beneficial and work as a seal for moisture.

According to Armand, one product that works wonders for type three and four curl patterns is Maui Moisture’s Thicken and Restore + Bamboo Fibers Conditioner. It contains Cetearyl alcohol, which is known for providing extra slip and also softens the hair to make it a little more manageable when detangling (much needed in a conditioner).

If you’d like to stay away from alcohol altogether, try the Heal & Hydrate + Shea Butter Conditioner that infuses the hydrating properties of Shea Butter and Aloe and gives you plenty of slip sans alcohol.

Wash day tips and tricks from the expert

Wash days can be pretty daunting for those of us with curly hair. In order for it to not be overly stripping, Armand recommends using a sulphate-free shampoo to cleanse in order to keep your curls hydrated.

If you’re new to the whole natural hair care game, Armand suggests using Maui Moisture’s Curl Quench + Coconut Oil line to get you started. You’ll find a product for almost each step of your hair care and can be assured that they contain all the right ingredients your hair craves.

The major key to healthy hair? “It essentially boils down to establishing a relationship with your hair and figuring out the products and regimen that works best for you,” he says. Like any good relationship, with time, effort, consistency and a little bit of trial and error, you can achieve the mane of your dreams.

1/7

Nourish & Moisture + Coconut Milk Shampoo

($11.99, Maui Moisture)

Buy Now

2/7

Nourish & Moisture + Coconut Milk Conditioner

($12.99, Maui Moisture)

Buy Now

3/7

Heal & Hydrate + Shea Butter Shampoo

($11.99, Maui Moisture)

Buy Now

4/7

Heal & Hydrate + Shea Butter Conditioner

($11.99, Maui Moisture)

Buy Now

5/7

Nourish & Moisture + Coconut Milk Weightless Oil Mist

($11.99, Maui Moisture)

Buy Now

6/7

Lightweight Curls + Flaxseed Shampoo

($11.99, Maui Moisture)

Buy Now

7/7

Lightweight Curls + Flaxseed Conditioner

($11.99, Maui Moisture)

Buy Now

The post Texture Talk: Decoding the Most Popular Curly Hair Care Ingredients appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

We tapped celebrity hairstylist Glenna Sandy (who has styled Issa Rae’s famous curls) and Salon Académie owner Nancy Falaise, and Amika global artistic director Naeemah Lafond for tips on how to achieve the inches we’ve been vying for, plus product recommendations to help us along the way.

Don’t skip wash day

Since textured hair is thick, oils don’t travel down the hair shaft as easily, which is why you may not get that telltale greasy look when it’s in need of a wash. While you might be convinced that you can go weeks or even months without washing your hair, Falaise stresses that anything beyond the two-week mark will cause product build-up, sweat, dirt and oils to accumulate and prevent actual hair growth. Sandy suggests establishing a wash day routine with a shampoo, conditioner, deep conditioner, leave-in conditioner and a styler.

Embrace the scissors

It might seem counterintuitive, but in order to retain length, getting your hair trimmed is key. Since dead and split ends stunt the growth of your hair, getting rid of what’s no longer healthy will actually give strength to the root of the hair to encourage growth, says Falaise. If you regularly wear your hair curly, regular trims will also give the appearance of bouncier, more defined curls.

Heat is not your friend

Heat can definitely make life with curly and coily hair a lot easier. It can help elevate certain styles, assist in identifying growth and cut your drying time in half. However, be wary of potential heat damage. Lafond suggests using a heat protectant like the Amika Blockade Heat Protectant Serum to ensure there’s a barrier between your hair and your heat tool of choice to prevent heat damage and maintain your true curl pattern.

Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate

Make daily hydration a top priority, says Sandy. Incorporate products that have humectants (like glycerin) to attract and retain moisture. Honey and aloe vera are excellent natural humectants — add them to your deep conditioning masks for an extra boost of hydration. And, use a nourishing oil to lock in any moisture that you add to the hair, says Lafond. Since curly and kinky hair need plenty of moisture to thrive, we often compensate with hydrating hair products. Staying quenched is a great way to ensure you’re providing moisture to the hair from the inside out.

Handle with care

Hair is delicate but curly hair is especially fragile. Since each strand is unique and has a slightly lifted cuticle, it allows for the internal structure of the hair to become exposed making the hair more prone to damage. Ditch the towel (the smallest tugs from the fibres can cause knots and snags) and wrap your hair in a cotton t-shirt or a microfibre towel like this one from Pattern Beauty. When detangling hair and styling, use a leave-in conditioner that contains a lot of slip or a specialized detangling product. Since over-manipulating your hair can also lead to breakage, embrace the wide range of protective styles that are available for textured hair.

Missed our last Texture Talk column? Click here.

The post Texture Talk: Expert Tips for Growing Longer, Healthier Curls appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Social media platforms like Instagram and Pinterest continue to be a source of inspiration but it’s TikTok that has become the go-to destination for those looking for a little braid inspiration. Here we’ve rounded up 10 of our favourite TikTok creators to turn to when searching for new braided styles to try.

For passion braids and baby hairs styled to perfection: Follow @yingabby

This Washington, D.C. hairstylist gets our number one spot because of the impressive variety of styles she features on her page. She is adept at all styles of braids, but impeccable passion and feed-in braids (or stitch braids, as they are often called) at ground-grazing lengths are where her true talent shines through. Most importantly, @yingabby lives by the rule that no braid up is complete until your baby hairs are slicked and styled flawlessly.

@yingabbyI’m a work in progress, I’m so proud of myself! New styles ALL 2021 😘🥰 #fyp #4u #protectivestyles #travelingstylist #dmvstylist♬ TikTok sync challenge General do NOT credit EvVie – EvVieArts

For Coi LeRay-inspired braids: Follow @slayedbyesete_

If you’ve been following the latest braid trends religiously, chances are you’ve probably run into a few (hundred) TikToks with people rocking jumbo box braids curled at the ends. The style recently shot to popularity after budding rapper Coi LeRay began wearing them, and we’ve since seen stylists like @slayedbyesete_ offer up their own interpretations. Not only does she execute the style easily, but her parts are so clean you could eat off of them.

@slayedbyesete_#coileraybraids #PerfectAsWeAre #fyp♬ HateSonny “kill bill (fast)” – .

For the tidiest feed-in braids on TikTok: Follow @braidsbykayy

This Buffalo, New York-based TikTok creator has perfected the art of feed-in braids. While her page features a fun assortment of styles, her talent for creating feed-in braids is truly enviable. Not only does @braidsbykayy nevr shy away from colour, she experiments with patterns and parts, too.

@braidsbykayyEnjoyed do this style🥰🔥#knotlessbraids #fypシ #foryoupage #hairtok #stitchbraids #viral #summervibes #coloredbraids #neatbraids #fypchallenge♬ Chanel (Go Get It) [feat. Gunna & Lil Baby] – Young Thug & Young Stoner Life

For styling tips for long braids: Follow @certified.jesss

Knotless box braids look beautiful with little to no styling. In fact, part of their appeal is the fact that they require minimal maintenance. Nonetheless, that doesn’t mean the style couldn’t use a refresh from time to time. When you are in the mood to change things up, @certified.jesss has got you covered. Her page is full of fresh takes on traditional single braids, from space buns to interesting ways to incorporate scarves.

@certified.jesssknotless braid hairstyles. 😋 #knotlessbraids #blackhairstyle #fypシ #viral #longbraidstyles #hairstyle #edges (don’t mind my shirt 🤦🏽‍♀️)♬ Bills, Bills, Bills – Destiny’s Child

For the best soft loc inspiration on TikTok: Follow @itsthacatshow

TikTok creator Nyaisha has many talents and creating captivating tutorials showing the process of installing soft locs is one of them. Her page is brimming with different lengths, sizes and colours of the increasingly popular style. If you’ve been obsessed with the look of locs but are weary of the commitment they require, @itsthacatshow is a must-follow account for natural-looking soft locs that look like they’re growing out of your scalp.

@itsthacatshowI did some 36in locs on me …how I do 🥺? #hairtransformation #hairstylesforblackgirls #distressedlocs #houstonhairstylist #locstyles #hairtutorials♬ original sound – Byrum

For some of the neatest and longest braids on TikTok: Follow @doseofdena1

This TikToker lives by one rule and one rule only: the longer the better. Look to her for inspiration on achieving glamorous floor-grazing box braids in fun colours that compliment every skin tone. With some of the neatest parts on TikTok, @doseofdena1 is a small dose of perfection.

@doseofdena1Still my favorite #fyo #foryou #trending #knotlessbraids #orlandobraider #blackgirlhair♬ original sound – Kane Trujillo

For a wide variety of styles: Follow @braidzbyrenee

If variety is the spice of life, then @braidzbyrenee is the spice of TikTok. This Mississauga, Ontario-based hairstylist has a little bit of everything on her page. From box braids to jungle braids, if you’re looking for protective styling there’s a good chance you can find it on her TikTok account. With aerial views of her precisely parting hair, it’s also a great place to start if you’re looking for tips on how to get those razor-sharp parts.

@braidzbyreneeEnjoy #braids#fy #viral #torontobraider #tiktokfun♬ Jildo ft. Backyardigans and Meghan Stallion – Jillian 🤡

For easy and comprehensive tutorials for every style of braids: Follow @dsybhair

TikTok creator Daniella (who goes by @dsybhair) has some of the best braiding tutorials on the entire app, point blank. Not only does she alternate between using mannequin heads and her own natural hair as a model, you can find everything from fishtail braids to stitch braids on her page.

@dsybhairKnotless Tutorial , Easy Method ✌🏽 #tutorials #hairtutorials #fyp #foryoupage #viral #braidstutorial #knotlessbraids #howto♬ Ski Mask The Slump God – Foot Fungus – Kiersten

For different lengths and colours of knotless box braids: Follow @knotlessgang

This Toronto-based hairstylist has all her latest client work on display on TikTok for us to marvel at. No matter the length, texture or colour, if you’re thinking of getting knotless box braids, it’s likely @knotlessgang has a video depicting a style you’ll love.

@knotlessgangI am obsessed 😍😍😍😍 ##jumbobraidsbox ##blackgirlmagic ##braidsgang♬ Cognac Queen – Megan Thee Stallion

For complex parts and styles: Follow @braidsbykamesha

@braidsbykamesha is perhaps one of the most innovative braiders on our entire list, expertly pulling off intricate and complex designs in an assortment of styles. From tribal braids to diamond-parted box braids, if you’re looking for a style that will make people stop and stare in awe, this is the only account you need to follow.

@braidsbykamesha♬ Drip 4 Sale – Plies

Missed our last Texture Talk column? Click here.

The post Texture Talk: 10 TikTok Creators to Follow for Braid Tutorials appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

During the event, we were particularly captivated by Maraisa Fidelis, a Brazilian influencer who started a blog and YouTube channel in 2013 after going on her own natural hair journey and finding that there were very few Black Brazilian creators making content for women like her. Today, she talks about beauty, fashion and self-esteem, engaging with her 147,000 YouTube subscribers through the lens of being a Black woman living in Brazil.

Read our interview with Maraisa Fidelis below.

On going natural in 2013

“I’d been chemically relaxing my hair since I was 11 or 12 years old. I wanted to have straight hair because it was what was considered beautiful; it was just the standard of beauty in Brazil. In 2013, when I was 24 years old, I decided to go natural because I wanted to know how my hair would grow. Back in 2013 when women online started talking about going natural, and I was inspired by them, so I was like ‘Okay, let’s do this.’ So I had my big chemical cut and I hadn’t seen my natural hair since I was 11.

“At first I got a lot of negative comments on YouTube, stuff about my hair looking ugly or not moisturized, and initially it was really upsetting because I’d only been wearing it natural for a short time. Eventually I started to understand that these comments weren’t really about me — they were about Brazil’s beauty standards, which were rooted in racism. People would ask if they could touch my hair and they’d want to play with it, as if it was something from another world, or something that belonged to the public.”

On growing up in a privileged environment and being the only Black student in class

“I grew up in an upper-middle class neighbourhood in São Paulo and my family was usually the only Black family anywhere we went. Over 50 percent of the Brazilian population is Black, but the majority live in poverty, so while I went to private school, I was always the only Black girl in class. I didn’t see anyone else who looked like me, so when I needed representation or a beauty reference, I could only really turn to my mom and grandma. They always made sure I felt beautiful, but of course being the only Black person at school still affected me. And it wasn’t just at school — it was on TV, in magazines, in dance class. In Brazil back then, you couldn’t even consider applying for a job on TV if you didn’t have straight, blonde hair.”

On the lack of products on the market for natural hair

“Back in 2013, brands weren’t making products for my hair type — at least not in Brazil — because like I said, straight hair was the beauty standard. So women like me who were wearing their hair natural had to turn to DIYs. My hair is curly and dry, so I needed oil but all that was available was olive oil, avocado oil and coconut oil from my kitchen. For nourishment I’d mash up fruits like avocados and bananas, and sometimes use mayonnaise. It wasn’t until maybe 2015 that brands started seeing content creators like me posting their DIY hair mask recipes and being like ‘We’re losing money with these women’ and that’s when I started seeing brands catering to my hair type. Today, things are so different. There’s such a wide range of options for natural hair. But honestly, even if these options existed when I was younger, I’m not sure I would have gone natural any sooner just because of what the beauty standard was at the time. I really don’t know.”

Missed our last Texture Talk column? Click here.

The post Texture Talk: Influencer Maraisa Fidelis on Hair Discrimination and Beauty Standards in Brazil appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

The Toronto-bred pop culture aficionado began locking his hair more than 10 years ago — only a short time before landing his dream job on MuchMusic. For Edwards, locs are a protective hairstyle (one that keeps ends tucked away, encourages hair growth and doesn’t require chemicals to create) that he has long thought of as cool for his afro texture. But he admits that during his early television audition days, he hesitated going forward with his now signature look as well as his multiple tattoos. Why? For fear of adding to the systemic biases already stacked against him and jeopardizing his chances, he shares. “It’s crazy for me to even say this, but I didn’t lock my hair or get tattoos for a long time because I thought, ‘I’m already a big Black man, and if I add the dreadlocks and tattoos, who the hell is going to hire me for a job — much less a job on TV?’It wasn’t a matter of me not loving my Blackness. I just knew where our society was, and searching for a job as a Black man with dreads didn’t sound like a smart approach.”

It wasn’t until after several failed TV auditions that Edwards decided to relinquish those arrogant stigmas and societal pressures and embrace locs — a hairstyle that he says has allowed him to come into his own. “I really believe there is a lesson here: I locked my hair because I was done trying to get on television and just months later I got a cold call from MuchMusic,” he says. “Once I decided to be my true self, that’s when the universe granted me that blessing. I love my hair. It means a lot to me.”

Loc maintenance 101

Edwards is no stranger to showing up for hair and makeup only to be greeted by ill-trained pros. “I’ve never been on a set where the hair is catered to me and the hairstylist knows anything about my hair,” he shares, adding that for years he would come prepared with his own products. After earning some pull in the biz however, Edwards now brings his own squad to set, like his longtime hairstylist, textured hair expert Nakisha Straker. Here, Straker shares the go-to steps and products she uses and recommends to keep Edwards hair looking camera ready.

1/6

Clarifying Shampoo

($36, Kenra)

Every four to six weeks, Edwards will go see Straker to retighten his dreads and receive a deep cleanse, since locs require a lot of oils and moisturizing products on the regular to keep them looking pristine. “Using oils is always a good thing because with textured hair, it takes forever for natural oils to slip down the hair shaft and moisturize the hair. And the longer your locs are, the drier they become, making them susceptible to damage,” Straker explains. The stylist starts out with shampooing Edwards’ hair with a clarifying shampoo followed by a moisturizing shampoo, she says.

Buy Now

2/6

Fast Food Leave On Conditioner

($20, AG Hair )

Straker then applies a leave-in conditioner before tending to loose new growth at the root using an interlocking method that’s done with a crochet needle. She then moves onto palm rolling (a hand technique to keep locs compressed) from mid-lengths and ends.

Buy Now

3/6

Jane Carter Solution

($32, Nourish & Shine Butter)

This nourishing, oil-based hair pomade is Straker’s go-to for palm rolling locs, and a product she has Edwards use at home in between his salon visits. “I tell him to take a dime-sized amount, emulsify it in his hands so it melts and rub it into his hair.”

Buy Now

4/6

Peppermint Rose Moisture Replenishing Spritz

($28, London Ivy )

To avoid dryness, unraveling and breakage, locs shouldn’t be washed too often at home in between salon visits. Instead, “using a rosewater spray every two to three days is good for keeping the scalp refreshed and clean,” says Straker.

Buy Now

5/6

Fresh Oil Sheen Moisturizing Spray

($10, Sulfur8 )

Another at-home must, this shine spray “helps with dry scalp and to lock in moisture,” says Straker.

6/6

Boar-bristle brush

($42, Fendrihan)

A common conundrum with natural hair, especially when in loc form, is that the hair tends to collect visible fuzz. “Brushing locs with a boar-bristle brush helps remove lint and brings out natural shine,” says Straker, adding that tying hair up every night with a silk or satin scarf will stave off fuzzies, too. Wrapping hair before bed also keeps locs from drying out.

Buy Now

The post Texture Talk: Tyrone Edwards on the Powerful Relationship He Has With His Signature Locs appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

But as natural hair becomes more accepted in these high-profile spaces, a glaring dilemma has been exposed behind the scenes: stylists ill-equipped to work with highly-textured hair. The root of the issue? A lack of curl education. The disparity begins in beauty school and then filters up to salons and professional sets, ultimately presenting itself in the form of discriminatory hair practices disguised as ignorance.

Despite the army of hairstylists on deck, backstage during Fashion Month can be a breeding ground for natural hair discrimination. “That’s probably one of the worst and most public areas that you see it, and [one of the ways] racism is showing up in the fashion industry,” notes hairstylist Stacey Ciceron, a textured hair expert and educator.

Ciceron, who has styled for runway shows during New York, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks, stresses that insufficient curl knowledge, plus the underrepresentation of Black hairstylists who understand the complexity of afro hair, makes way for traumatizing experiences for models of colour, scenarios that force mouths to be kept shut and heads down. “If you’re a Black model and your hair must be done, you don’t have a choice. There can be three or four people on you at one time just pulling, tightening — trying to do whatever,” describes Ciceron. “Models feel like they can’t even speak up in order to keep their jobs.” And in many cases, it’s not unusual for models with natural hair to be left completely untouched, which feels like a cop-out knowing the variety of styles that can be achieved with afro hair. “That’s the other [end of the] spectrum because [hairstylists] don’t want to deal with it.”

For Canadian model Crystal Rowe, trusting her natural hair to pros on gigs is always a risk, which has led to taking hair matters into her own hands before showing up to work. “It’s actually better that I do my hair myself because it can get damaged on set with hairstylists trying to do something. The products they use are not good for my hair and things like that,” she reveals. “Until I feel like the industry has really changed, I’m going to continue doing it at home.”

Prepping her hair at home pre-job is a norm fellow local model Truth John understands well, too. In fact, the widespread lack of textured-hair knowledge even led John to chemically straightening her afro strands. “I was relaxing and texturizing my hair because it was easier for hairstylists to deal with,” she admits. “Once you’re in the industry, you realize that not a lot of people know how to deal with your hair.”

To fix this problem, Ciceron underlines that industry decision-makers, from fashion designers to beauty brands, need to support more hairstylists of colour behind the scenes. But it’s not solely about ethnic diversity; it’s about diversity in skill. It’s every hair professional’s job to learn to style Black hair. “I’m not saying they need to specialize in highly-textured hair. They need to learn how to do it — the same way they learn how to do everything else,” she expresses. “Let’s do our part [as hairstylists] to make sure that everything is better moving forward.”

Missed our last Texture Talk column? Click here.

The post Texture Talk: 3 Fashion Week Pros on the Importance of Industry-Wide Textured Hair Education appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Pattern Beauty Scalp Serum

All hail two new treatments from Tracee Ellis Ross — a.k.a. the queen of celebrity curls! The latest members of the Pattern Beauty family emphasize the restorative value of intensive care rituals, tending to hair from root to tip with a Scalp Serum and Treatment Mask. The former, for use on any type of curls or protective style, is a mix of peppermint, rosemary and lavender oils, plus hydrating aloe vera juice for what Ross calls “a soothing, cooling and calming salve for your roots.”

Garnier Whole Blends Sulfate-Free Remedy Royal Hibiscus & Shea Butter 5-in-1 Conditioner

Curly hair pros champion sulfate-free formulas. Why? The shape of textured strands makes it challenging for emollient natural oils originating at the scalp to reach all the way to the ends, so hair is typically dry. Adding sulfates to the mix, which strip natural oils, will only leave it more parched. Part of a new collection of shampoos and conditioners made without sulfates, mineral oil or petrolatum, this conditioner uses gentle ingredients as well as shea butter to deeply hydrate curls and coils. It’s a workhorse that can be used to pre-wash or co-wash, for traditional conditioning or a combing cream and as a leave-in treatment.

Shea Moisture Papaya & Neroli All Day Frizz Control Shampoo, Conditioner and Milk Gel

If smoothing waves and curls is your haircare M.O., then this is the collection for you. Blended with fair-trade shea butter, it boasts hydrating papaya, soothing neroli and softening elderflower. The shampoo and conditioner work together to deliver long-lasting moisture, and the humidity-resistant milk gel raises the bar by adding a silky, shiny finish to puff-prone strands.

Attitude Curl Ultra-Hydrating Shampoo

Each curl is unique, but all curl happiness starts in the shower. And a fresh batch of made-in-Canada cleansers and conditioner is up to the task. Loaded with plant-based ingredients, hair types 2 and 3 can choose the frizz-reducing coconut oil and chamomile blend of the Curl Amplifying set, while the Curl Moisturizing duo uses moringa and olive oils to offer light hydration and easy detangling to any dry waves and curls. And those seeking intensive moisture and restoration (i.e. tight curls and coils that tend to be brittle) can pick up the Curl Ultra-Hydrating set made with shea butter and papaya leaf extract.

All About Curls by Zotos Professional

Clocking in with eight products, this collection aims to cater to every curl type. Each of the cleansers, conditioners and styling formulas are created without the use of SLS/SLES sulfates and silicones to leave curls nourished and defined. The variety in formulations here, such as no- and low-lather cleansers plus soft and high definition gels, is a considerate touch that allows you to easily choose what works best for your hair.

Gold Series Anti-Breakage Combing Crème

Brought to us by a team of Black scientists, the latest additions to the Gold Series line are formulated to support the fragile nature of Black hair. Each of the four Hair Repair products contain biotin (a strengthener) and kukui nut oil (for deep moisture). This lightweight cream claims to reduce breakage by a whopping 69% and lends hydrating slip that aids with detangling, but without a heavy residue that can weigh down curls or contribute to build-up.

Hairitage by Mindy Double Down Co-Wash

Inspired by a blended family’s diverse hair needs, this new-to-Canada collection takes an inclusive stance and offers something for every texture. This creamy co-wash is made with grapeseed oil, yarrow extract and oat peptide to gently cleanse and hydrate hair types ranging from 2B to 4C. You won’t find sulfates, silicone or mineral oil in the vegan line, but you will discover an affordable price point that facilitates guilt-free generous use.

Klorane Nourishing and Repairing Mask with Cupuaçu Butter Range

Thanks to a star ingredient and deliciously rich formulas give dry, damaged hair can get the deep nourishment it needs. The three-step line features organic cupuaçu butter, a potent emollient that has a reparative effect on the rough outer layer and breakage points of dry curls. We’re here for the versatility of the mask: choose to rinse it out after five minutes, allow it to absorb overnight or use a dab as a leave-in conditioner.

LUS Brands Fragrance-Free 3-Step System

A scentless version of a best-selling Canadian hair care line is worthy of celebration! This collection of sulfate-free shampoo, silicone-free conditioner and multi-use cream retains the original recipe of shea butter and moringa oil that fans of the brand love, but leaves out fragrance. Sold as a set or individually, this is sweet relief for anyone with a wavy, curly or kinky-coily texture who has to manage allergies, skin sensitivities and asthma related to beauty products, or the demands of a scent-free work environment.

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CurlShoppe

Co-founders Natasha Sheppard and Rowan McAnoy had similar relationships with their hair growing up: The attempt to tame their curls with a combination of chemical relaxers and straightening tools left them with very little knowledge of how to care for their hair in its natural curly state, and even less hair health to begin with. After her big chop (cutting off all her relaxed ends), Natasha started experimenting with ingredients, and conducting research through different blogs and forums before finally launching Curlshoppe to satisfy what she saw as a gap in the market for quality and affordable haircare for curly-haired folks. The line now carries everything from conditioners to beard oils, and Sheppard and McAnoy pride themselves on having products that cater to every curl type. Their Coconut is Everything collection features a mix of both lightweight creams and stylers that are great for type 3 hair, while their Butter’d Up collection was specifically engineered with thicker, kinkier hair in mind. Oh, and it smells like your mom’s favourite baked treats. Win, win, WIN.

London Ivy

Most of us leave university with a degree, some new friends and lifelong memories. If you’re Monique London, founder of London Ivy Natural and Organic Products however, you leave with an intention to disrupt the natural haircare industry for good. With the help of a few friends who happened to be chem majors, she was able to formulate the perfect conditioner and London Ivy was born. What started off as a few oils and conditioners has transformed into a full-fledged business that includes moisture-replenishing sprays, styling bundles and the brand’s best-selling Smooth Operator Luxe Pomade, which is perfect for creating curl definition when doing twist outs and taming flyaways on 4C hair.

Nancy Falaise

Montreal-based hairstylist Nancy Falaise is a real life natural hair superhero. She’s created a petition for beauty school inclusivity in Quebec, she runs haircare workshops for young girls, and she’s a natural hair salon owner. Also in her repertoire? A multi-collection hairline where each product leads with water. “Water is what moisturizes your hair, everything else just helps to seal it,” she explained over Zoom. As a breast cancer survivor, it was also important for her to include a collection targeted towards those dealing with hair loss and whose star ingredient is biotin, which is known for stimulating keratin production in hair to increase follicle growth.

Simply Go Natural

Founded by Halifax native Joyce Adom, Simply Go Natural Cosmetics are all handmade by Joyce herself. Hero ingredients include shea butter (geared towards kinkier hair) and coconut oil for all hair textures, even relaxed hair. Joyce used some of her coconut oil-based products while she was going through the process of transitioning from chemically relaxed hair to natural hair and can personally attest to how much easier they make the frustrating process. The line also features a collection specifically formulated for those who have skin sensitivities. It includes an unscented conditioner, shampoo and a moisturizing butter that’s so gentle it can be used in your hair and on your skin. Hooray for multi-tasking.

Kalahni’s Treasures

Like most mothers Erika Gutt, founder of Kalahni’s Treasures, wanted what was best for her children. But when she found that the hair products being offered on the market did not fit that mould, she decided to create her own. Best-sellers of of her line include the Butter Me Up, Butter Cup Whipped Butter made with shea and cocoa butters and sweet almond oil. Another product that refuses to stay on shelves is Erika’s personal favourite, the Curls Crush Hydrating Cream, which works great on curl types 3A to 4C. The intensive hydrating cream works its magic by using aloe vera to help draw in moisture to the hair, as well as castor and essential oils to help seal it in.

Graced by Nature

After being involved in a car accident that forced Roxanne Morgan to be mostly homebound, she decided to dedicate more time to increasing her hair health, which led to the creation of Graced by Nature. Though the line was created with type 4 curls and coils in mind, there are products in the line for every curl. For example, the popular Peppermint and Coconut Milk Scalp Renewing Shampoo is available in two different formulas: one for type 4 hair that’s made with heavier oils to properly moisturize kinkier textures and one without as to not weigh down looser waves and curls. Roxanne’s personal favourite? The Vanilla Cream Moisture Replenishing Leave-In Conditioner. It provides long lasting moisture and is perfect for people on the go who want to keep their hair moisturized without worrying about product build-up.

EarthTones Naturals

Determined to have a haircare line that was based and grounded in science, naturopathic doctor Susan Walker did ample research before launching EarthTones Naturals. It all started out with a single product: the Curl Define Curl Enhancing Gelly, which to this day is still her best-selling product and does wonders to define type 4 hair. Today, EarthTones Naturals is a full haircare line and being backed by science means often going against the grain and rejecting what is widely accepted in the natural hair community. Case in point: Glycerin being one of the main ingredients in all of her products despite its negative rep among natural gals. Why? Dr. Walker says “it attracts moisture like no other ingredient on the market, and the products speak for themselves.”

The post Texture Talk: 7 Local and Black-Owned Textured Haircare Brands to Shop Now appeared first on FASHION Magazine.