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You can thank/blame celebrities. Earlier in May, Jennifer Lawrence made headlines in New York City after wearing a baggy pinstripe button-down with equally XL capri pants from The Row and a pair of ballet flats. A few months earlier, Halsey attended the Givenchy Fall/Winter 2023 show in a lime green bra and a pair of low-slung cropped cargos, putting a dramatic take on the tiny-top big-bottom trend. We’d be remiss not to mention Bella Hadid, whose trend-transcending wardrobe has long included bottoms that are cropped just so. With each new street-style look, stars are spreading the redemption of capris like a virtual virus. And…we fear we’re ill.

In their truest form, capris hit a few inches below the knee. But the general concept of cropped slacks takes many shapes and sizes, from flowy culottes to Bermuda shorts. With each not-quite-a-pant design, a baseline level of contempt is baked into it. For one, capris are the prime vehicle for controversial skirt-over-pants styling. Not to mention, they have a history of coming exclusively in low-rise iterations — a scary flashback that most of us don’t want to relive. On top of it all, some people have come to see capris as inherently unflattering, awkward and just plain irredeemable.

Like other oft-vilified trends (tube tops; bloomers; cargo shorts) their mere presence elicits questions. The main one being, why? Why not commit to full-length trousers or a pair of decisive jorts? Why fall somewhere so ambiguously in the middle? In their defence, capris were in fact created for a functional purpose. (Can those Big Red Boots say the same?) Their first iteration dates back to the late 1940s, when designer Sonja de Lennart was walking on a beach in Capri, Italy, and cut off the bottom of her pants so as to not get them wet. This scientific alteration stood the test of time — (support women in STEM!) — with variations of cropped pants popularized by icons of the ’50s like Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly. In the ’90s, capris made a return in slim, fitted styles before getting bigger and baggier through the 2000s. To further reinforce their status as a controversial noughties design, they became a staple in Carrie Bradshaw’s wardrobe, before fading into the realm of outdated dressing.

Today, perhaps the thought of capris jolts you back to sitting awkwardly in a middle school classroom, fresh off a department store shopping spree with your mom. Or maybe the capri return is a welcome go-ahead to dress like Ashley Tisdale and Beyoncé on the lawless red carpets of the early 2000s. However you choose to view it, though, capris are coming back in all iterations. Chanel has been championing cropped pants for a few seasons. Dua Lipa’s recent viral Versace collection was peppered with colourful just-below-the-knee pants. Capri enthusiasm is thriving on TikTok, too, where cropped trousers of all kinds are worn with gleeful abandon. Sheer lace pants with a disco ball belt. Calf-length slacks accentuated by a string. Faded jean gauchos that theatrically billow about. Turns out, 2023’s capris dial up the quirkiness of their predecessors.

Wearing capris today is taken as a challenge to sartorial risk-takers. They’re sported by It girls like Devon Lee Carlson. They’re the in-the-know uniform for niche fashion fanatics at a Chloë Sevigny closet sale. They’re intentionally “controversial,” and that’s kinda what makes them cool. Above all, perhaps their return can be chalked up to much-needed practicality. At this point, we’ve withstood short shorts, micro minis and ditching pants altogether. It’s undeniably refreshing to have alternative warm-weather bottoms that feel like substantial clothing.

Think about it: there are many reasons to wear capris. Actually, don’t think! Simply slip on your cropped pants and scamper out the door. Are you cosplaying Marilyn Monroe? Are you channelling Britney Spears on an MTV red carpet? Are you honouring your twelve-year-old self? That’s for you to know, and others to endlessly theorize about. Embrace the utter mystique of the three-quarter length slacks, and understand that you look cool doing it. In the needlessly cryptic words of TikTok, “I’m all for capris, if you know what I mean.”

Not sure where to start with the 2023 trend? From Barbiecore to business casual, below are our top picks for easing back into capri pants.

1/7

Citizens of Humanity Long Cargo Shorts

($295, Anthropologie)

Buy Now

2/7

Pink Jacquard Leggings

($387, Marine Serre)

Buy Now

3/7

Slim-Leg High-Rise Capri Pants, The Iconic

($29.95, Reitmans)

Buy Now

4/7

Hot Shot Crop Flares

($68, Free People)

Buy Now

5/7

311 Shaping Skinny Capri Women's Jeans

($89.95, Levi's)

Buy Now

6/7

Gray Nylon Trousers

($262 , Hyein Seo)

Buy Now

7/7

Poplin Capri Pant with Cargo Pockets

($29.95 , Reitmans)

Buy Now

This article contains affiliate links, so we may earn a small commission when you make a purchase through links on our site at no additional cost to you.

The post Can Capris Be Cute? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Purposely showing off one’s brassiere is not exactly an emblem of high fashion. On the contrary, it garners assumptions of an ill-fitted top, a layering oversight, and to some, a plain lack of taste. It’s different than wearing a sheer blouse atop a dark bralette, which can be decidedly refined. It’s more chaotic than using a bra as a top, which somehow looks extra purposeful and thus acceptable. The unfortunate crux of the peering-out bandeau is that it evokes a certain immaturity — that of wrangling with your first bra. Think: The eager middle schooler, fresh off a La Senza shopping spree, ready to flaunt their bedazzled neon trainer. Or Cady Heron, desperate to establish her newfound popularity in Mean Girls, sporting a pleather tube dress accentuated by offensively bright straps. In the mainstream zeitgeist of 2023, there’s something embarrassingly naive embedded in the image of an exposed bra. But it seems that’s starting to change.

The polarizing styling choice is set to be a defining summer trend, and we have the Cannes Film Festival to thank. Over on the French Riviera, A-list stars are loudly and proudly emerging with their own takes on bra-strap couture. Scarlett Johansson’s Prada number gave the illusion of a strapless baby pink column with a white bra poking forth. Days earlier, Euphoria’s Sydney Sweeney wore a pale Miu Miu negligée with decidedly darker straps peeping through.

Over the course of the week, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley channelled movie star glamour in Fendi couture featuring a bedazzled brassiere, model Cindy Bruna chose a multicoloured Vivienne Westwood frock with an exposed corset, and Elsa Hosk wore a surrealist Viktor & Rolf slanted ballgown revealing nude undergarment boning. To revisit the aforementioned question: Yes, each of these risqué bra slips is indeed intentional. And at Cannes, that’s saying something.

This is not a public school dance, nor Cady Heron’s ill-fated house party. An esteemed annual destination for the upper crust of Hollywood, the red carpets of Cannes are known for demanding decorum. (Read: heels are an unspoken requirement and selfies are a no-no). With so many attendees opting to expose their underthings, it begs the question: Are the tides on this maligned style finally turning?

The evidence overwhelmingly points to “yes.” On-display bras resurfaced on the Fall 2022 runways by the likes of Bottega Veneta and Versace. On the red carpet, Lily James was an early adopter (or offender, depending on who you ask) of the reimagined trend. In February 2023, she donned a bright green Miu Miu dress with a white bra strap flagrantly sitting front and centre of her back. The look was met with befuddlement (see below). But it was a harbinger of unfazed undergarment exposures to come.

To naysayers, the look is an emblem of garish Y2K style. But what is “tackiness,” anyway, if not a celebration of taking risks? Love it or hate it, the exposed bra is a marker of personal style. Amy Winehouse repeatedly rocked contrasting straps against sultry body-con dresses in the aughts. Nicki Minaj’s visible hot pink bras were an inextricable part of her signature bubblegum Barbie persona through the 2000s and early 2010s. And Carrie Bradshaw — fervent rejecter of subtlety — famously loved to show off her bras in her outfits on Sex and the City, and that’s part of what makes her a style icon.

As the controversial trend gains revitalized attention on contemporary red carpets, it has been met with mixed reactions. But in truth, the exposed bra carries with it all the makings of a great fashion statement: a little mystique, a lot of boldness, and most importantly, a healthy dose of confusion.

The post The Exposed Bra Trend Is Officially Back appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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That being said, designers have had the desire to breathe underwear for quite some time. The quintessential mermaid silhouette is thought to be created by French couturier Marcel Rochas in the 1930s and cemented in fashionable circles by Jean Patou, whose aquatic-inspired gown appeared in a 1933 issue of Vogue. Since then, the siren style has taken many forms but re-entered the mainstream in 2021, with Versace and Burberry making waves with their nautical novelty. Cut to Spring 2023, and Blumarine, Erdem, Victoria Beckham, and many others have also decided to take the plunge.

@itgirllifeguide What do y’all think about this trend? #mermaidcoreaesthetic #mermaidcore #mermaidcorefashion ♬ original sound – Slay🧍‍♀️

Much like the mythical creatures, the defining mermaidcore look is a little elusive. Think Sara Paxton from Aquamarine mixed with Tiktok’s viral coquette and pearlcore aesthetics: iridescent slip halter dresses, lace-up tops and corsets, pearl and shell-inspired accessories, sheer lacy fabrics, light blue and lilac sequins, and so, so, so many ruffles. If it feels like a lot, that’s because it is — apparently, no minimalist mermaids are allowed above ground.

But in grander terms, the trend speaks to our communal need for nostalgia and escapism. During a period that has been anything but comforting, it psychologically makes sense that we’ve all been more inclined to revert to our childish ways. Pretending to be a fairy, princess, mermaid, or all of the above is much more fun than thinking about any of the many crises society is currently facing. Who wouldn’t want to be part of their world?

Read on for Ariel-approved advice on how to make a splash in mermaidcore-inspired looks.

Sheer Leader

The wet look is a beauty basic, but thanks to mermaidcore, the trend is floating over into fashion. The combination of semi-sheer and lace fabric can make clothes appear soaked, as if, say, you’ve just returned from a quick swim in the sea. So take the plunge like this influencer and invest in a two-piece pastel set to achieve the full effect.

Frill Ride

Not ready to live fully under the sea? Wade into the proverbial water with ruffles. While the parallels to aquatic algae and other oceanic plants make it a mermaidcore must, the feminine fashion can easily be worn above land when paired with a more masculine oversized blazer, as seen here on this guest during fashion week — bonus points for adding any shell-related accessories. (And if your frilly blouse happens to also have a garden-ready rosette like the street style star seen here? We say why not.)

Rise and Shine

Is there anything more beautiful than the sun shining on the sea? Perhaps Halle Bailey could give it a run for its money, but besides that, I’m drawing a blank. Get your glow on with iridescent materials like silks, satins and sequins and don’t be afraid to add some Y2K touches as seen above.

Shop the trend

1/5

Paco Rabanne Bag

Metallic Effect Sequin-Embellished Shoulder Bag

($1,236, Paco Rabanne)

Buy Now

2/5

Wilfred Blouse

Frenchy Blouse

($98, Aritzia)

Buy Now

3/5

Pacharee Pearl Earrings

Gold-Plated Pearl Earrings

($470 USD, Net-a-Porter)

Buy Now

4/5

Mother Denim Skirt

Minx Denim Ruffled Miniskirt

($295.64, Mother)

Buy Now

5/5

Silk Laundry Dress

Short Sleeve Bias Dress Rainbow

($525, Silk Laundry)

Buy Now

The post What Is Mermaidcore? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

In theory, the annual event, held on April 22, is a time to raise environmental awareness and, where fashion is concerned, spark conversations around mindful consumption. In practice, however, it evokes greenwashing. Big-box brands launch campaigns with flashy eco-friendly marketing and buzzwords about honouring Mother Earth. “This year, several Earth Day campaigns have a philanthropic slant,” Vogue recently noted. But often, the grandiose sustainability claims lack external verification and the materials employed aren’t all that environmentally friendly. And in the long run, this only encourages more consumption. It also promotes the idea that clothing brands should be churning out sustainably-labelled products based on industry timelines. In that vein, Earth Day has been commercialized into its own kind of trend.

Where marketing is concerned, many sustainable brands have forgone Earth Day observations altogether. Indigenous artists, specifically, are trailblazers of slow fashion as a standard practice. “My father grew up on the land,” wrote Cree author David A. Robertson in FASHION’s April 2022 issue. “He told me that time works differently for Indigenous people. There was never a need to rush; it was about patience and following the patterns of the animals: taking what you needed, not what you wanted, to preserve the land and its resources.” Take beadwork — a pillar of Indigenous design — which requires intentionality and merges art, fashion and storytelling. “Beading is part of our survivance story, and through it, I celebrate the immense strength of our people,” jeweller Catherine Blackburn told FLARE in 2019. “It becomes a tool and practice of resistance.”

 

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A post shared by Elias Jade Not Afraid (@eliasnotafraid)

Instead of conforming to the trend cycle and seasonal runway demands, many Indigenous designers work on their own timelines. “Often I will go to an Indigenous creator’s site and everything will be sold out because they are handcrafting, sometimes with materials that are coming from the land, and in very small batches,” says FASHION editor-in-chief Bernadette Morra. She notes that some artists may simply close commissions, no reasons given. “It’s a completely different way of thinking about fashion and one that I have a huge respect for because it is slow, thoughtful, and creator-centric.” And isn’t that the core ethos behind Earth Day?

Instead of finding new deals to shop, this year, try familiarizing yourself with Indigenous designers who are creating mindfully, all year round. Below, FASHION highlighted seven.

Anne Mulaire

 

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A post shared by ANNE MULAIRE | Circular Fashion (@annemulaire)

Anne Mulaire’s eponymous clothing brand is made entirely in Canada with designs inspired by her Indigenous heritage. As such, prints are handcrafted by her father, Métis Elder David Albert. A former art teacher, Albert’s work is embedded with storytelling, from an embroidered prairie flower symbolizing pride to an Eagle feather representing unity among Indigenous communities.

Justine Woods

 

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A post shared by Justine Woods (@justinewoods_)

The Toronto-based garment artist, designer, educator and scholar uses Indigenous fashion practices as a means of exploring Indigenous resurgence and liberation. She is a Penetanguishene Aabitaawikwe, whose extensive portfolio includes a bespoke beaded suit collection that pushes back on Western norms of professional wear and a multicoloured ribbon skirt inspired by a dream about swimming with her ancestors.

Catherine Blackburn

 

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A post shared by Catherine Blackburn (@catherinebjewellery)

A member of the English River First Nation, Catherine Blackburn is a multidisciplinary artist and jeweller. A throughline of her work is using fashion to spark a dialogue about history, specifically addressing Canada’s colonial past. Employing beadwork and other historical adornment techniques, Blackburn’s work explores themes of Indigenous sovereignty, decolonization and representation.

Lynette La Fontaine

 

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A post shared by Lynette La Fontaine (@otipemisiwak_artist)

“The process of creating is healing for me,” writes Two-Spirit Métis mixed media artist Lynette La Fontaine on their website. “Emotionally, mentally, spiritually and physically.” Working with materials like plants, animals, and fish, they create jewelry, accessories, home decor, and wearable art following Métis traditions. Their method is infused with storytelling and guided by their intuition.

Jennifer Younger

 

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A post shared by Jennifer Younger (@jenniferyoungerdesigns)

Raised in the Southeast Alaska town of Yakutat, designer Jennifer Younger is Tlingit of the Eagle Kaagwaantaan clan and resides in Sitka, Alaska. She uses the contrast and texture of metals in her work and draws inspiration from Tlingit formline designs. All of her one-of-a-kind pieces are crafted with care — from handmade and assembled jewelry to engraved creations.

Justin Jacob Louis

 

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A post shared by SECTION 35 (@sectionthirtyfive)

In 2016, Justin Jacob Louis founded cult-favourite streetwear brand Section 35 with the intention of using art and fashion to tell stories from his culture. As a member of the Samson Cree Nation, his designs — ranging from hoodies to cargo pants — strike an eye-catching balance by blending the past with the present.

Jamie Okuma

 

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A post shared by 🇯 🇦 🇲 🇮 🇪 🇴 🇰 🇺 🇲 🇦 (@j.okuma)

Jamie Okuma’s work spans from beaded bomber jackets to fringed dresses, and the designer has recently been added to the CFDA‘s coveted membership roster. Residing in Southern California, she specializes in handmade one-of-a-kind pieces and ready-to-wear fashions. Her work celebrates the combination of Indigenous art with fashion, categorizing garments as “Art to Wear” and “Art to Adorn.”

The post Indigenous Designers To Support On Earth Day and Beyond appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Don’t get me wrong, there’s plenty to love about Coachella fashion. I mean, where else would you see Harry Styles and Shania Twain perform in matching sequin ensembles? Over-the-top outfits have come to define the event, but that’s starting to change.

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As fashionable festival-goers dress to impress in the crowded desert, a culture of overconsumption has become the norm. And one thing is urgently clear: we can’t keep going like this.

After a three-year pandemic hiatus, Coachella 2022 marked the return of in-person festivals last year. The fashion-forward affair was first in the line of various upcoming summer music events, including Canadian festivals Osheaga and Veld. Coachella 2023 kicks off on April 14 and the much-anticipated festival is shaping up to be bigger and buzzier than ever. And that means lots (and lots) of one-and-done outfits. As the climate crisis intensifies, it’s impossible to ignore the environmental nightmare that is festival fashion.

A 2019 study found that, every year, about 7.5 million festival outfits are single-use. In the age of the influencer, Coachella has become a hub of content creation based on the premise of unique, never-before-seen outfits. “When people are increasingly seeing more influencers and celebrities styling new pieces, it’s easy to turn to a fast fashion brand and purchase a similar item for less,” says Maria Morales, the general manager of Poshmark Canada.

According to The New York Times, brands like H&M and Asos “plan for months” in anticipation of the spike in shoppers they’ll receive during festival season. It’s commonplace for entirely new wardrobes to be purchased by festival-goers, worn once and tossed away.

Festival fashion feeds into the mentality that condemns “outfit repeating,” and therefore limits the possibilities of one’s personal style. “This creates a sense of constant pressure to always buy new items, often not because the new clothes excite us, but simply because we don’t want to be seen wearing the same outfit,” says Morales. It’s this mindset that keeps us staring at a closet full of clothes and thinking we have nothing to wear.

The fashion industry is a major contributor to waste and water pollution, and the environmental impacts of single-use outfits are particularly troubling. But there are ways to participate in festival fashion while being mindful of the Earth. Below, Morales shares her tips on how to approach this festival season sustainably.

Upcycle old pieces

First things first: be open to wearing the same thing more than once. “It’s such a shame when people are frowned upon for being an outfit repeater,” says Morales. Before ordering a new crop top, consider how your own wardrobe can be reworked. “Add sequins, fringe, patches and other add-ons to create an entirely new look,” she suggests. “Have a favourite vintage t-shirt? Give it a new look by tie-dying it.”

Become best friends with your local tailor

“They can take tired jeans and turn them into perfect shorts for the summer, reconfigure a dress into a blouse or crop top, and more,” explains Morales. “There are so many ways to rework clothing from what you already own.” Not only is that more eco-conscious than buying brand new, but it will also give you a completely unique garment.

Use statement pieces to transform any look

Don’t underestimate the versatility of quality wardrobe staples like jean shorts, mini skirts, and simple dresses. These are “key pieces,” says Morales, and can be worn in new ways through experimental hairstyling and fun, chunky jewelry.

Instead of throwing old clothes away, give them new life

If you bought something for a festival, but can’t see yourself wearing it on a day-to-day basis, don’t toss it. Instead, Morales suggests hosting a clothing swap or reselling it on online marketplaces. “Ask your besties if you can share each other’s favourite items and style them in a way that reflects your personal style,” she says.

The bottom line? Know your personal style

“Microtrends are just that: trends,” says Morales. “As fast as they come in, they will be gone, leaving a graveyard of garments behind in the dust.” While it’s fun to experiment with daring festival fashion, it’s important to know what works for you and what doesn’t, so that you can avoid clothing waste when the celebrations are over. “Truly owning your personal style will allow you to recognize which of those trends will complement your existing wardrobe, and which to leave behind.”

The post How To Dress Sustainably for Festival Season appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

If you’ve been on TikTok recently, your feed has undoubtedly been flooded with this long jean skirt. As a result, it’s been near impossible to find one at Mango, Zara or H&M, as the fast-fashion retailers can’t seem to keep them in stock. Even before that, the long denim skirt returned triumphantly from Y2K obscurity, becoming a designer must during the Spring 2023 runway shows at Diesel, Acne, Balenciaga and MM6 Maison Margiela.

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It would be easy to write off the trend as an extension of the aughts revival. Another simple solution would be to see it as a reaction to the micro-mini that made headlines last year — after all, what goes up must come down. But could the rise of denim maxi-skirts actually be connected to the economy? The Hemline Index suggests yes.

@quicktake #GDP, the #stockmarket and #unemployment are all things many economists look at to determine if a #recession is coming. But here are some more unorthodox indicators of an upcoming contraction. #economy #finance #money ♬ Lo-fi hip hop – NAO-K

For those unfamiliar, the popular concept proposes that when the economy does well, like, say, in the Roaring Twenties, hemlines rise to match the carefree and prosperous mood of the time. But lengths tend to drop during recessions or great depressions, reflecting a more sombre mood.

Now, take this information with a grain of salt. Since its inception nearly 100 years ago, the Hemline Index has gotten a few things wrong. In the fifties, for example, when the world came out of war and into economic prosperity, Christian Dior famously lowered hemlines to create the now iconic New Look. By the 1990s, subcultures reigned supreme, and the Internet made it impossible for one silhouette to dominate pop culture.

However, based on the trends we’ve experienced in the 2020s, it’s possible that the theory still holds some merit. When we were all locked at home baking sourdough bread, ankle-grazing “cottagecore” dresses rose in popularity. When we were allowed out and optimistically thought everything would return to normal, the micro-mini became the “it” skirt of the season. And now, as the proverbial dust has seemingly settled and the recession is in full swing, long denim skirts are ruling the runways and the streets. Coincidence? I think not.

So whether you choose to believe this new trend is part of a bigger sociological scheme or just another TikTok fad born from content creators’ Y2K obsession, this is one addition to your online cart you won’t return. Click through our gallery below to shop some new denim maxi-skirts for the Spring 2023 season.

1/6

Diesel

Long denim skirt with tiger breaks

($1,395, Diesel)

Buy Now

2/6

Gap

Denim Maxi Skirt

($99.95, Gap)

Buy Now

3/6

Dodo Bar Or

Nash two-tone patchwork denim midi skirt

($547 USD, Net-a-Porter)

Buy Now

4/6

COS

A-line Denim Midi Skirt

($115 USD, COS)

Buy Now

5/6

Vetements

Asymmetric denim skirt

($3,184, Farfetch)

Buy Now

6/6

Marc Jacobs

Monogram-pattern denim skirt

($655, Marc Jacobs)

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The post What Do Long Denim Skirts Say About the Economy? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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For real-life wear, take cues from the street style aces who paraded in plenty of versions of the short suit that get the summery stamp of approval. Big and boxy was the overall favoured shape (Bermuda-length shorts and an oversized blazer get you there quick), while more femme-leaning sets relied on classically prim details like a nipped-in waist, soft palette, and silhouette-skimming tailoring. Even the guys took on the new suiting trend, often putting a baggy twist on the school-boy aesthetic, knee socks and all. And as temperatures slowly creep from pre-spring to full-on summer, borrow a clever styling cue from Gigi Hadid by pairing your short suit with sheer tights for a perfect transitional look.

Here, 12 suits to set you up for seasonal success: from breezy linens options and flashy tweed takes, to monochrome matches made for the boardroom.

1/24

Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet

Justin Tweed Embellished Blazer

($1,510, Alice + Olivia )

Buy Now

2/24

Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet

Paula Tweed High Waisted Short

($500, Alice + Olivia )

Buy Now

3/24

Banana Republic

Alva Linen-Cotton Blazer

($310, Banana Republic)

Buy Now

4/24

Banana Republic

Alva Linen-Cotton Short

($130, Banana Republic)

Buy Now

5/24

Cinq à Sept

Boucle Khloe Blazer

($545, Cinq à Sept )

Buy Now

6/24

Cinq à Sept

Cherryl Short

( $405, Cinq à Sept )

Buy Now

7/24

The Frankie Shop

Omoka Blazer

($341, The Frankie Shop )

Buy Now

8/24

The Frankie Shop

Omoka Cargo Trouser Shorts

($185, The Frankie Shop )

Buy Now

9/24

H&M

Single-Breasted Blazer

($60, H&M )

Buy Now

10/24

H&M

Linen-Blend Bermuda Shorts

($40, H&M )

Buy Now

11/24

Mango

100% Linen Slim Fit Suit Jacket

($300, Mango )

Buy Now

12/24

Mango

100% Linen Shorts

($100, Mango )

Buy Now

13/24

Rag & Bone

Charles Linen Blazer

($730, Rag & Bone )

Buy Now

14/24

Rag & Bone

Sofie Linen 5” Shorts

($300, Rag & Bone )

Buy Now

15/24

Séfr

Hamra Double-Breasted Twill Blazer

( $640, Séfr )

Buy Now

16/24

Séfr

Sven Straight-Leg Woven Shorts

($205, Séfr )

Buy Now

17/24

Smythe

Pouf Sleeve One Button Blazer

($825, Smythe )

Buy Now

18/24

Smythe

Pleated Short

($425, Smythe )

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19/24

Veronica Beard

Nevis Dickey Jacket

( $798, Veronica Beard )

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20/24

Veronica Beard

Gables Short

($400, Veronica Beard )

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21/24

Wilfred

Destiny Blazer

($228, Aritzia )

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22/24

Wilfred

The Effortless 5” Short

($98, Aritzia )

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23/24

Zara

Textured Plaid Blazer

($100, Zara)

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24/24

Zara

Textured Weave Plaid Shorts

($50, Zara)

Buy Now

The post Everyone Will Be Wearing Short Suits This Spring appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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It’s been just a few months since Alessandro Michele’s departure from Gucci shocked the fashion world. At the time, it seemed abrupt for the creative director — whose flamboyant flair and viral antics like “Twinsburg” redefined Gucci’s aesthetic — to exit when his designs so aptly reflected the maximalist attitudes of the culture. But now, with the loss of yet another seminal creative director, it seems a vibe shift is coming. Fashion is headed away from silliness and into sensibility.

Take Miu Miu. The brand’s now-viral Fall 2023 line focused on everyday dressing, featuring buttoned-up cardigans, knee-length skirts and messy hairstyles for an added dose of reality. Because absurdist fashion imagery has somewhat become the norm, this type of straightforward functionality is now new and exciting.

Perhaps that’s why recent trend-dominating runways have embraced the mundane. At the Fall 2023 presentations, labels like Tory Burch, Proenza Schouler and Eckhaus Latta focused not on gimmicks, but on detail-oriented effortlessness.

At Bottega Veneta, creative director Mathieu Blazy continues to lean away from Instagrammable moments and instead focus on quality craftsmanship. Last year, his runway debut’s opening look — an all-leather outfit disguised as a tank and jeans — served to further prove the possibility of experimentation within minimalism.

When compared to what we’ve been seeing for the past few years, these designs are decidedly less visually stimulating. And maybe that’s the point. Because they’re void of “gotcha” shock value, minimalist moments require us to look a little harder, and ultimately challenge us to ask ourselves: What’s our taste?

In that regard, personal style is embedded in inconspicuous clothing. It requires you to dress from the gut, rather than reaching for the flashiest signifier of internet fashion intel. Instead of a disorienting race toward newness, unembellished styling is about circling through what works. There’s an element of truth baked into the less-is-more aesthetic, and it seems the world is once again searching for that.

In the early 2010s, while still recovering from the 2008 recession, fashion moved away from Y2K glitz and into frugality. Flaunting wealth became taboo, and logomania was replaced with the prominence of bare-bones branding. Similarly, amid today’s economic uncertainty, there’s a newfound appreciation for no-nonsense clothes that give it to you straight.

The ubiquity of The Row, Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen’s label, is one such example. With its logo-less separates and timeless designs, it epitomizes the pivot into quiet luxury and the emphasis on wearability. On TikTok, it has inspired a cult following in search of dupes from high-quality (but more affordable) retailers like Uniqlo and COS. And for influencers who can afford its expensive basics, it’s become a staple of #OOTD videos.

Much like The Row’s less-is-more appeal, reigning aesthetics du jour increasingly lead back to 2010s fashion — like the ​​meteoric rise of ballet flats and the resurgence of Tumblr-era Twee. Even this season’s most talked-about trend, tights as pants, is vaguely reminiscent of the nylons-under-shorts uniform of 2010s-era It girl Alexa Chung. And it’s all a notable departure from the inflated, saturated ensembles that dominated the dawn of the decade.

Over the years, the respective fanciful visions of Jeremy Scott and Alessandro Michele successfully romanticized the everyday. But now, it seems the fashion world has an appetite for the familiar. The greatest signifier that this wave is here to stay? The return of Phoebe Philo, whose eponymous line drops later this year. The former Celine creative director pioneered the streamlined styles that defined the previous decade and emphasized the simple relationship between clothes and the body.

With a refreshed focus on pragmatism, perhaps fashion is taking the time to slow down; to sit with the vulnerability of plainness and rely on nothing but intuition to get dressed. More than anything, this pared-down approach puts the decision-making power into the wearer’s hands.

The post Fashion Is Going Through a Minimalist Vibe Shift appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Achieving the aesthetic is quite simple. A cool pair of shades is the safest entry point, while a good racer jacket (new or vintage) completes any look with minimal effort. And for a little extra va-va-vroom, opt for a checkerboard print or some stripes.

Below we’ve curated a starter kit to help you nail the racing fashion trend.

1/9

House of Sunny

The Racer

($340, House of Sunny)

Buy Now

2/9

Dior

Dior Snow S1U

($960, Dior)

Buy Now

3/9

Stella McCartney

Workwear All In One in Citrus

($3,745, Stella McCartney)

Buy Now

4/9

Rhude

Rhude Racing graphic-print hoodie

($1,183, Rhude)

Buy Now

5/9

Diesel

Denim Dress

($1,395, Diesel)

Buy Now

6/9

Tarin Thomas

Samuel Ring - Checkered

($510, Tarin Thomas)

Buy Now

7/9

A Better Mistake

L.F.O. Cropped Racer Top

($294, A Better Mistake)

Buy Now

8/9

Theophilio

Stripe Leather Trouser

($1,716, Theophilio)

Buy Now

9/9

TAG Heuer

Carrera X Porsche Orange Racing

($8,800, TAG Heuer)

Buy Now

A version of this article first appeared in FASHION’s March 2023 issue. Find out more here.

The post Get Up to Speed on Motorsport Style appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

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Look no further than Miu Miu. To close out Paris Fashion Week, the Italian luxury brand enlisted stars like Mia Goth, Emma Corrin and Zara Wade to champion grandmotherly style. The now-viral runway presentation was peppered with messily tucked-in cardigans, glasses, and cozy knitwear. As they walked, models carried big purses that looked stuffed to the brim with doodads of all sorts. Hard candy, anyone?

Designer Miuccia Prada is known for using her shows to champion a specific aesthetic, not just clothes. Last year, the brand’s seminal micro mini was the final catalyst to the zeitgeist’s (somewhat fraught) revival of Y2K styles. But this season, a decidedly more demure oeuvre is set to reverberate through pop culture: the grandmother.

On TikTok, #grandmacore has over 145 million views at the time of publishing, with top videos discussing the beauty of grandmotherly slow living. Why? Times are tough, and many young people are yearning for a more simple, nostalgic lifestyle. Think: doing puzzles in your spare time; having a deep appreciation for good-quality socks; bird watching. All in all, it’s about taking a little extra care and finding loveliness in the day-to-day. And that extends to getting dressed.

Grandma core outfits are often made up of chunky sweaters, billowing nightgowns, and patchwork patterns, while home decor in the aesthetic comprises tchotchke-covered shelves, intricate watercolour paintings, and floral duvets. These visuals coincide with Gen Z’s ongoing love affair with thrifting and the rise in vintage home decor, as predicated by Pinterest. And this old-is-new-again ethos has been dominating fashion for months.

Rosettes are everywhere. Brooches have become a coveted accessory. Mismatched layering dominated street style at fashion month. Now, grandma core is even infiltrating viral fashion moments. On February 2, Emma Chamberlain was trending after opting for a “grandma aesthetic” at Spotify’s pre-Grammy performance party. Layering a collared button-up under a lumpy knit vest and accessorizing with a thin brown belt, the sensible getup seemed out of place for a flashy Hollywood event. But it won’t be for long.

A month later, the Instagram platform @boldberlin went viral after sharing a candid photo of two passing strangers — a young man and an (impeccably accessorized) older woman — wearing the same plaid coat. Both looked similarly cozy and stylish, proving that grandma core works on anyone.

With notes of cottage-core and coquette visuals, the nostalgic trend channels the warm feeling of visiting a grandparent’s home. Like “coastal grandmother” that came before it, today’s grandma fashion prioritizes comfort. But while the former’s breezy textiles and cream colour palette implied a moneyed background, the new era of grandma core is made of mismatched affordability. Sure, we can’t all buy Miu Miu’s maternal uniform, but thrift stores (and closets) everywhere are brimming with its components: cardigans, knee-length skirts, and kitten heels.

In an age of ever-changing micro-trends, dressing like a grandmother is a playful way to push back on expectations of women’s fashion. Instead of cycling through clothing or accessories to fit a fad, it encourages scavenging in your own collection or acquiring something second-hand. There’s also an element of non-conformism in adopting styles that have long been written off as unhip. Ultimately, it’s about bonding with your wardrobe, and treating each garment like a lifelong friend instead of a quick fling. Trends come and go, but grandmother fashion endures.

For inspiration this season, I look to my grandmother. Still today, her vast jewelry collection — from a sliver gardenia pendant to a battery-operated flashing Christmas brooch — is an indication of her elegant aura and playful personality. Her floral-pattern ensembles are always accessorized with intentionality, and reliably emit a sense of wisdom. That’s something I’d like to strive for. As TikTok user @mary.orton so eloquently declared, “Why wait until you’re 85 to dress like it?”

The post The Case for Dressing Like Your Grandmother appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

RELATED: Prepare to See Rosettes Everywhere

From New York all the way to Paris, you couldn’t blink without missing a Mary Jane moment. There was Coach’s heart-stamped heels, Emilia Wickstead’s metallic-meets-minimalist options, and Prada’s Western-influenced iterations coming in a kaleidoscope of zingy colour that popped with every look. Even Bally got the boys into a black patent version paired with languid suiting, making us question why we hadn’t thought of it as the most obvious choice for evening wear in the first place.

Soon, the street style elite followed suit, putting their own spin on the buzz-worthy style: pairing them with pristine white dress socks, delicately scrunched at the ankle; off-setting zany tights or trousers with a neutral pair; and leaning into its preppy reputation with long pleated skirts.

If you’re wondering whether the Mary Jane resurgence has reached the mainstream, here’s the good news: this season’s offering pretty much spans the entire style spectrum. From teetering patent platforms to velvety ballet flats and T-strapped oxfords with chunky, punk-happy soles, there’s truly a pair for everyone. Read on for 19 of our favourite pairs of Mary Jane shoes.

1/19

Mansur Gavriel 

Square Toe Mary Jane 

($595, Mansur Gavriel )

Buy Now

2/19

By Far

Beth Flame Patent Leather 

($655, By Far )

Buy Now

3/19

Aldo

Anjie Heeled Mary Janes - Platform 

($130, Aldo )

Buy Now

4/19

Nodaleto

Bulla Marietta Wine Moon 

($1,183, Nodaleto )

Buy Now

5/19

Le Monde Béryl 

Mary Jane Blue Tiger Print Bevilacqua

($715, Le Monde Béryl )

Buy Now

6/19

Vibi Venetia 

Whipstitched Velvet Mary Jane Flats 

($120, Vibi Venetia )

Buy Now

7/19

Poppy Barley 

The Buckle-Up Mary Jane

($285, Poppy Barley )

Buy Now

8/19

Bottega Veneta

Mostra Mary Jane Pump

($2,110, Bottega Veneta )

Buy Now

9/19

Reformation

Adalynn Chunky Maryjane

($385, Reformation )

Buy Now

10/19

Dr. Martens

Smooth Leather Mary Jane Shoes 

($170, Dr. Martens )

Buy Now

11/19

Call It Spring 

Mj High Heel Platforms - Block Heel 

($70, Call It Spring )

Buy Now

12/19

Gianvito Rossi 

45 Metallic Patent Leather Mary Jane Pumps

($1,155, Gianvito Rossi )

Buy Now

13/19

Ganni 

Wide Welt Mary Jane Ballerinas 

($475, Ganni )

Buy Now

14/19

Maguire 

Neiva Matcha Mary Jane Flat 

($240, Maguire )

Buy Now

15/19

 L’Intervalle

Clichy Red Leather 

($188, L’Intervalle )

Buy Now

16/19

Aeyde 

Aline Black Nappa

($490, Aeyde)

Buy Now

17/19

Prada 

Western Mary Jane Pumps

($1,650, Prada )

Buy Now

18/19

Zara 

Block Heel Slingback Shoes

($80, Zara)

Buy Now

19/19

Manolo Blahnik 

Camparimu Jewel 

($1,225, Manolo Blahnik )

Buy Now

The post Mary Janes Are All the Way Back appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Associated with excessive ’80s styling and Carrie Bradshaw maximalism, in recent years the smushed flower motif has come to mostly serve as a silly souvenir of the past. But like other trends of that ilk — peplum tops; popcorn dresses — rosettes are now being revived. And not only are they back, they’re bigger, bolder, and more versatile than ever.

To understand the depths of the rosette renaissance, we must first look to Harry Styles. On February 11, the clowncore enthusiast pulled up to the Brit Awards in a velvet Nina Ricci *peplum* suit with a rosette choker so large it covered part of his face. Impractical? Of course. Gaudy? Quite. But such is the appeal of the rosette: It’s nearly impossible to overlook, so there are very few rules to wearing it the “right” way. From brooches to hair accessories to everything in between, it’s set to be one of this year’s biggest trends.

As such, spring came early on the runways of New York Fashion Week, where flashy fabric florals took many forms. Models walked down a runway lined with roses at Christian Siriano’s Fall 2023 show, where the overarching trend was floral appliqués. Rosettes flowed down the sides of dresses, accentuated cut-outs and crowded together on wide-brimmed hats. This flower-focused presentation set the tone for the week to follow.

At Willy Chavarria, rosettes complemented refined menswear looks on brooches and headpieces. In Sandy Liang’s hyper-feminine collection, the motif appeared in the form of dainty details on sashes, hair accessories, chokers and dresses. Meanwhile at Puppets and Puppets, the three-dimensional design took on a more daring symbolism in the form of nipple coverings. More and more, the rosette proves to be impressively multifaceted.

On recent red carpets, the floral appliqué has become a gender neutral accessory that can be dark and edgy in one look and frilly and fanciful in the next. Emma D’Arcy pinned a gothic black rosette to their subversive ensemble at the 2023 Golden Globes. That same evening, Eddie Redmayne wore a monochrome brown suit with a sleek oversized satin flower. Weeks later at the 2023 Grammys, Lizzo emerged in an orange Dolce & Gabbana cape covered in vibrant florals. All in all, rosettes have come a long way.

In the 17th century, the ruffled accent began as an intentionally exclusionary design that was attached to shoes to symbolize wealth and status. And though it ebbed and flowed in popularity through the 20th century, it’s most heavily associated with the 1980s, when floral appliqués were stitched onto everything from prom dresses to hair bows. In the early aughts, it was a red carpet staple worn by stars like Lindsay Lohan and Jennifer Lopez. And of course, it has lived on as Carrie Bradshaw’s favourite outfit embellishment in Sex And The City. 

But thanks to its undeniably artificial imagery, in the following years, the rosette was largely regarded as a garish add-on. But who says that’s a bad thing? As over-the-top styles make their way back into zeitgeist (along with Carrie and her ostentatious wardrobe), it’s only natural that so too does the once-maligned rosette.

In 2023, the rosette is no longer just a kitschy accessory — it’s an aesthetically adaptable accent. It was the frontal focal point of a ruched dress on Hailey Bieber. It served as elegant decor on a corset-style top worn by Bella Hadid. It’s even been revisited by J.Lo as a neck accent on a body-con dress. With its newfound gender neutral appeal and inherently in-your-face design, the modern rosette is a refreshing emblem of taking up space. And in today’s “anything goes” fashion landscape, its wackiness makes it wearable as ever.

Often seen as symbols of joy, pleasure and new beginnings, flowers are a hopeful symbol for the year ahead. Once the weather gets warmer, it’s only natural that the rosette trend will continue to bloom. As the great Miranda Priestly once sarcastically scoffed, “Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking.”

The post Prepare to See Rosettes Everywhere appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Love them or hate them (which, how could you?), romantic comedies are comfort food in cinematic form. Often (unfairly) deemed only appropriate on Valentine’s Day or Christmas, the formulaic genre reliably serves fantasy, silliness and unadulterated joy. Typically set in a hyper-romanticized version of New York or Los Angeles, each flick tends to follow a quirky-yet-lovable protagonist for which everything just kinda works out in the end. Living in that version of reality is not exactly attainable. But romcom core is about dressing like it is.

As you may have guessed, the style emulates fashion from 2000s cinematic love stories. With a focus on feminine, playful aesthetics, it often comprises handkerchief hems, dainty floral patterns and frilly detailing inspired by the leading ladies of romcom lore. They may not have been perfect, but they knew how to dress. From How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days, to 13 Going on 30, to Something New, these films showed protagonists switching seamlessly from skirt suits at work to going-out garb in the evening that reliably reflected their Y2K storylines. As such, romcom core comprises whimsical tailoring, tube tops, low-slung skirts, and oh so many tiny scarfs.

The nostalgic trend has been on the rise for months, with Pinterest predicting that romcom core would take off in 2023. In a release, the company described it as more than just an aesthetic, but a way for people to channel the “main character energy” these movies provide. So it should perhaps come as no surprise that inspiration from early aughts love stories is all over recent runways.

At New York Fashion Week, Coach’s catwalk was brimming with sartorial main character energy, from sheer slip dresses with ruffled detailing to low-waisted maxi skirts with cropped jackets. Designer Tia Adeola presented a variety of Y2K-reminiscent looks, including halter mini dresses with asymmetrical hemlines and strapless frocks accessorized by matching skinny scarves.

At Sergio Hudson, layered vibrant slip dresses paired with tiny handbags felt intentionally reminiscent of Jennifer Garner’s Jenna Rink in 13 Going on 30. Meanwhile, Kim Shui gave representation for the eccentric main character trope, with bright 2000s shearling jackets as well as going-out looks comprising low-slung pants, tube tops, frilly skirts and sheer over-the-shoulder button-ups. Romcom core is everywhere, and now it even has its own aesthetic subgenres.

On TikTok, where the hashtag has 100,000 views and rising, creators are channelling the recognizable personas of niche main characters. The viral “frazzled English woman” aesthetic, inspired by Kate Winslet in The Holiday and Renée Zellweger in Bridget Jones’s Diary, comprises shearling jackets, baker boy hats, and earth-toned corduroy. The cold businesswoman archetype Sandra Bullock portrays in The Proposal has become synonymous with a refined corporate aesthetic. Meanwhile, some cozy autumnal outfits are an ode to small-business-owner style à la Meg Ryan in You’ve Got Mail. Romcom core isn’t one sole style, it’s about channelling your own kind of happy ending.

For a few years, it felt as though romcoms had all but disappeared from the zeitgeist. Like many phenomena with a female-dominated fanbase, the genre was largely written off as shallow, unimportant and inconsequential fluff. But today, pop culture seems to recognize that romcoms are so much more. Sure, with dialogues exclusively made up of witty banter and a questionable amount of grand gestures, they’re shamelessly unrealistic. But it’s through these saccharine storylines that they celebrate the simple joy of being in love. With romcom core, that feeling comes from your wardrobe, not just romantic relationships.

Thankfully, as an extension of the Y2K renaissance, there’s been a cultural revival of the lighthearted love story genre. We have modern beloved romcom queens like Zoey Deutch and Lana Condor. On TikTok, How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days has been trending for months as a treasured cultural gem (it’s time to give Kate Hudson her Oscar). Not to mention, the rhinestone-embellished cut-out Versace dress in 13 Going on 30 has transcended the film altogether, becoming a coveted piece of fashion history. If recent runways are any indication, the trend of dressing like you’re in your favourite movie is not going anywhere.

Ultimately, romcom core takes the focus away from striving for a life partner and instead celebrates romanticizing your life for what it is. It’s about dressing like every day is a feel-good movie, curating your own little happy endings, and, ultimately, being just a little delusional, as any romcom heroine would. In 2023, we could all use more of that.

The post Romcom Core Is About Romanticizing Your Life appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

With gravity-defying accessories and outrageous proportions, cartoon fashion (cartooncore, if you will) is rooted in suspending your disbelief and rejecting rules of traditional sophistication. More and more, trending styles are taking visuals from animated series — specifically Japanese anime — and turning them into wearable art. And while this inspiration in fashion is by no means new, it does seem to be on an upward trajectory.

On February 6, Jimmy Choo announced its capsule collection with the iconic anime series Sailor Moon. With studded hot pink boots, glossy platform pumps and a clutch decorated with comic illustrations, the already-coveted collaboration invites wearers to embody the ’90s-era characters.

That same day, Brooklyn-based art collective Mschf shared the forthcoming release of the “Big Red Boot,” a pair of fire-hydrant-coloured shoes that bring the Japanese manga personality Astro Boy to life. Though met with lots of confusion and even better memes, the oversized footwear design gave exactly what any good cartoon should provide: entertainment. But more than that, it pointed to a larger sartorial plunge into the pool of animated fantasy.

Not convinced? Allow us to direct your attention to the 2023 Grammys red carpet, where cartoonish chaos reigned supreme. We had Shania Twain in a Harris Reed ensemble adorned with massive sequined polka dots. Sporting exaggerated proportions (including a dangerously tall top hat and electric red wig), Twain looked like she strolled right out of a child-friendly comic strip. Then there was Harry Styles, who doubled down on his passion for dressing like a clown caricature in a bedazzled motley-patterned jumpsuit courtesy of Egonlab x Swarovski. It’s been but over a month since 2023 began, and viral cartoon fashion has already been dominating the sartorial scene.

It first began in January, when Loewe announced its (now mostly sold out) collaboration with the Studio Ghibli movie Howl’s Moving Castle. With a campaign modelled by Taylor Russell, the collection materializes the beloved Japanese animated film, from a bag that mimics the titular fortress to capes embellished with fan-favourite scenery. This marks Loewe’s third collaboration with the studio and points to a long history of anime as a source of sartorial inspiration.

From runways to capsule collections, the imaginative artwork of Japanese animation has influenced fashion spaces for decades. But for mainstream brands, leaning into the eclectic visuals of animation is more in vogue than ever. And it’s been on the rise for a while.

Take the Spring 2023 runways. Moschino’s collection celebrated nonsensical delight with pool float accessories and cartoons plastered on dresses, boots and hats. Thom Browne delivered gravity-defying hairdos, polka-dot motifs and inflated silhouettes that had models like Bella Hadid resembling comic book-worthy villains. If the aforementioned fashion collections are any indication, it would seem we’ve reached peak cartoon dressing. But why?

Well, at the risk of stating the obvious, we’re not exactly living in the best of times. As such, in recent years, playful maximalism has been on the rise as a rejection of pandemic-induced ennui. Now, as pared-down, subdued designs are creeping back into pop culture in light of a looming recession, the sudden urge to dress like a cartoon character symbolizes a quest for joie de vivre.

After all, cartoons are steeped in comforting nostalgia. For many people, these vivid TV personalities gave us our earliest fashion inspiration. (Shoutout to Ms. Frizzle from The Magic School Bus! She had range.) Not to mention, with their exuberant attitudes and often re-worn wardrobes, animated characters reliably emit individuality. Today, these inspirations are all over the fashion landscape. The popular “kidcore” aesthetic pulls directly from vibrant cartoons. And the viral “weird girl” look is rooted in a growing love for Harajuku fashion, which is tied to anime visuals.

Is cartooncore the way of the future? Perhaps. Is it emblematic of the world’s current strange state? Arguably so. Above all, though, cartoon fashion invites us to find the uncomplicated — occasionally silly — joy in getting dressed. And if someone decides to make a Magic School Bus-inspired handbag, we certainly won’t complain.

The post Cartoon Fashion Is In appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Today, the word “peplum” likely drudges up groans and flashbacks to a time many of us have tried to forget. At its peak, it epitomized the questionable business casual aesthetic of early 2010s, which, for some reason, led many of us to dress up each day as though we were headed to a corporate conference. Back then, a peplum top was oft-paired with era-defining styles like chandelier necklaces, flats, and skinny jeans. In recent years, though, it has been relegated to our collective memory as a sartorial meme, never to materialize again. That is, until now.

As the Y2K resurgence paved the way for the return of 2010s styles like twee and balletcore, it was only a matter of time before peplums followed suit. From Armani Privé to Viktor & Rolf, recent couture presentations have teased exaggerated peplum silhouettes. Most notable was designer Robert Wun, who presented an unmistakable ode to the style via a series of crafted tubular waistlines at his couture show, one of which Florence Pugh wore to the 43rd London Critics’ Circle Film Awards on February 5.

Many celebs, too, have used the red carpet to co-sign the nouveau peplum trend. Michelle Yeoh donned an Armani Privé flouncy frock covered in crystals at the Golden Globes, while Angela Bassett attended the Critics Choice Awards in a Christian Siriano gown with recurring pops of peplum adorning her velvet skirt.

From Alexa Demie’s sleek suiting look to Irina Shayk’s bedazzled strapless iteration, bona fide fashion It girls have also been sporting the style for months. Taylor Russell, in particular, has offered a few takes on the infamous silhouette. At a BAFTA event on January 14, she once again sealed her approval in a red Alexander McQueen leather jacket and skirt combo. Clearly, a peplum is no longer a relic of 2010s business casual dressing. They can be sleek, edgy, and even futuristic.

With the gift of retrospect, early adopters of the resurgence are re-imagining the design from scratch. Case in point: peplums are the perfect opportunity to play with proportion. In lieu of skin-tight jeans or office-appropriate column skirts, the style is being paired with oversized garments like flared pants and maxi skirts. Take celebrity stylist June Ambrose, who leaned into exaggerated silhouettes at Paris fashion week with an XL peplum jacket to match her tall chapeau.

In fact, modern day street style is brimming with fresh peplum inspiration. It can be found in the form of edgy boning layered atop black lacy sets. When adapted in an asymmetrical nude design, the peplum is understated and contemporary. And if made with a metallic droopy material, it’s suddenly an avant-garde statement piece.

As such, retailers are offering their own relaxed riffs on peplum, from Simone Rocha’s elegantly buttoned-up blouses to Sandy Liang’s asymmetrical ruffles. There are contemporary takes thanks to Alexander McQueen’s edgy leather look, Givenchy’s jean jacket, and Ganni’s cut-out, bow-adorned blouse. Certain designs even tap into revamped corsetry, like Canadian brand Revelle Shop’s floral structured top. Whether it’s paired with a vibrant bag, a pair of platform shoes, or an edgy mini skirt, it seems the peplum is delightfully versatile. And perhaps that’s why it keeps coming back.

After all, the garment has been impressively resilient (or bothersomely incessant, depending on who you ask) for centuries. Dating back to ancient Greece, peplums were popular among all genders during the Renaissance, and resurfaced again in the Victorian era as a predecessor to the bustle. By cinching the waist and extending at the hips, the silhouette was made to artistically accentuate the hourglass shape. So to be fair, the real crime of the 2010s peplum was probably not its design.

Like all trends that eventually die, its fraught fate was sealed once it became overly ubiquitous. Championed on Jil Sander’s Spring 2011 runway and worn by the likes of Kim Kardashian and Beyoncé, peplum detailing was everywhere in the early 2010s. Soon, it was mass produced, often sold in a stretchy structureless material that stained easily and clung to you in all the wrong places. Pair that with reductive styling rules that defined the preceding decade and it’s easy to see where things went wrong. But in today’s era of romanticized weirdness, the peplum’s quirky look can become an emblem of genuine experimentation instead of a whirlwind fad.

Let this revival serve as an indication that 2010s trends are upon us. Does that mean we should all feel obligated to wear peplums? Of course not. But if you feel so inclined to dust off your skinny jeans, part your hair to the side and rock a peplum top, take comfort in knowing that everything in fashion eventually comes back around.

The post I’m Sorry, But the Peplum Is Back appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

The thought first crossed my mind in November, when Kendall Jenner stepped out in Los Angeles wearing a Bottega Veneta leotard and navy sweater plucked straight from the runway with nothing but sheer pantyhose on her legs. A few months prior, Bella Hadid was pictured grabbing a slice of pizza in New York City wearing boxer briefs in lieu of actual shorts just days before Kylie Jenner attended Loewe’s spring show wearing white undies with tights. These now-viral looks have served as an indication of the fashion industry’s newfound love affair with pantless ensembles.

kylie jenner in loewe. I’m obsessed pic.twitter.com/h3sCD5ishf

— GĒS (@HFrunway) September 30, 2022

Take the Fall 2023 menswear shows, where tighty-whities were styled with knee-high leather boots at Louis-Gabriel Nouchi, and JW Anderson debuted an assortment of leggy underwear looks. At couture week, Dior served up skimpy ruched bodysuits as stand-alone outfits while Ronald van der Kemp presented theatrical blazers with black underwear peeking through.

Don’t even get me started on the Spring 2023 ready-to-wear shows. Del Core, Coperni, Aniye Records, Alessandra Rich, Victoria Beckham and Bottega Veneta each offered their own iterations of going pants-free, be it via bare-legged models sporting embellished underwear or sleek briefs paired with pantyhose. Suffice it to say, this style has been months in the making. And if TikTok has anything to do with it, it’s going to be big in 2023.

On the app, #tightsaspants has amassed over 200,000 views and rising, with many creators citing the eldest Jenner sister as their inspiration. As the  subversive aesthetic grows in visibility, however, it has been met with strongly worded dissent and contentious questions — the main one being, “Why?” But I, for one, see the appeal of not wearing pants. After all, putting together an outfit should be easy. Why not simplify things by scrapping one of its main components? With that in mind, I decided to put the tights-as-pants look to the test.

For wary beginners like me, an oversized blazer layered atop your leotard is an accessible entry point to the trend, as it offers some comfortable coverage. This can be easily thrifted or purchased at retailers like Dynamite and Simons. Come time to choose a bodysuit, opt for one with bikini backing instead of a thong, which can be found at Zara (pictured), Everlane, Skims or Velvet Rose. Finally — and I cannot stress this enough — wearing sunglasses, despite the sun having very much set, adds a layer of anonymity that makes the whole thing feel more attainable.

The next (and most important) step in venturing out with no pants is accepting that it will be a little confusing for everyone. Some might visibly pity you for forgetting your trousers, others might assume that you’re trying, and failing, to pass your blazer off as a dress. To prepare for these reactions, I got some practice. After three days of wearing my bottomless ensemble around my apartment and studying the effortless aura of those on my TikTok feed, I was able to muster up the confidence to actually wear it out in the world.

Upon entering a crowded bar on a Friday night, I felt an unusual breeze on my legs (expected) and some lingering stares (also expected). As I sat nursing my negroni sbagliato, I admittedly had trouble convincing myself to get up and walk around. But once I did, I was hit with a welcome realization: nobody cares. Sure, I could feel eyes on me from the surrounding tables as I passed by. But that momentary chagrin was usurped by the giddy sense of achievement I got from wearing such an experimental outfit.

Pretty soon, I felt a liberating sense of delusion kicking in. (“This is perfectly normal.”) Followed by baseless overconfidence. (“I don’t need pants like all of you!”) Then came the important questions. (“Do they think I’m Kendall Jenner?”) I may have been pantless in public, but in my book, I was serving a high-fashion hosiery look. Herein lies the beauty of the tights-as-pants trend.

Because it looks a tad ridiculous on everyone, it works on everyone, regardless of age, size or gender. And though nay-sayers have deemed it an impractical celebrity fad, this style has been around for decades. Risqué tights-based ensembles were especially popular in the 1960s, when hosiery was worn to push back on traditional expectations of womanhood. Actor Ann-Margret famously paired a crewneck sweater with nylons in the 1964 movie Viva Los Vegas. And model Edie Sedgwick was renowned for her signature uniform of leotards and stockings during the same decade. Once you get past the initial wrongness of wearing tights as pants, it can be pretty empowering.

Would I do it again? Actually, yes. Will it be part of my regular wardrobe rotation? Probably not. The moral of the story: Don’t live in fear of looking weird. And if you, like me, resolve to be increasingly untethered to traditional fashion rules, consider biding adieu to conventional bottoms, even just for one night. You may learn a thing or two about yourself.

The post I Tried Wearing Tights As Pants appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

On January 23, the fashion house debuted a collection of expert tailoring, detailed embellishments and gilded faces that set the tone for a week of shocking sartorial statements. But what left the biggest impact was creative director Daniel Roseberry’s decision to send supermodels Shalom Harlow, Irina Shayk and Naomi Campbell down the runway wearing life-like animal heads on their ensembles.

Rest assured, they were not real carcasses, but hand-crafted recreations using materials like foam and resin. Harlow, Shayk and Campbell wore a leopard, a lion and a wolf, respectively. And before the show even began, Kylie Jenner emerged wearing the same Schiaparelli lion dress that Shayk would later wear on the runway: a long black gown with an oversized lion head perched on the shoulder.

“No animals were harmed in the making of this look,” the brand wrote in an Instagram post showcasing each creation, including the Schiaparelli lion dress. According to Roseberry, the creatures were meant to reference lust, pride, and avarice from the 14th-century allegory Dante’s Inferno. But some took the implication of animals as accessories as off-putting, out of touch and even “disturbing.”

Although the creatures were fake, many saw the in-your-face designs as an idolization of wearing animals while simultaneously downplaying trophy hunting and the power dynamics it implies. The murky practice has long been deemed an “elitist” hobby, as moneyed hunters pay hefty fees to kill for sport. With this cultural context, aestheticizing an animal head inherently implies inaccessible wealth and excess.

At the same time, Schiaparelli’s collection is not the first instance in which the likeness of animals has been used in fashion, and it likely won’t be the last. Some argue that Roseberry has presented a more sustainable alternative to animal imagery on the runway by employing synthetic iterations instead of real carcasses.

The presentation has already drawn comparisons to the fashion house’s real fur designs from decades ago. In that vein, Schiaparelli’s latest line holds up a mirror to fashion’s use of dead animals and points out the ridiculous tradition of making carcasses into decorations. In so doing, it also draws attention to other systemic ethical issues.

With pervasive tactics of greenwashing and the shady underbelly of fast fashion, there is possibly no such thing as completely ethical consumption in the clothing industry. Through these detailed creations, perhaps Schiaparelli is communicating just that. But if that is the underlying message being conveyed here, it has led some to wonder: Is this really the right setting to do so?

After all, haute couture functions on the premise of exclusivity. With the expensive materials used, the labour-intensive production process and a consumer base comprising the economic elite, each couture garment is made for the (very privileged) person wearing it. Ultimately, imagery of the ultra-rich wearing animals (à la Kylie Jenner) is not exactly groundbreaking. At this point, it’s arguably antiquated.

In an Instagram post, Roseberry shared his intention behind the meaning of the designs, writing that each animal was “celebrating the glory of nature and guarding the woman who wears it.” In that vein, the provocative creations add another layer to the urgent notion of “protective” dressing, which has become a runway staple in light of turbulent world events. Even still, the decision to equate dead animals with decorations comes with its own set of insidious implications in the midst of the climate crisis and growing economic uncertainty. But perhaps these conflicting takeaways are all, in fact, intentional.

Outlandish, near-offensive designs have become a crafty way for fashion houses to grow brand awareness and get people talking via a viral moment. Haute couture is a prime example: it’s not supposed to be wearable and accessible, it’s meant to stand out. As such, courting internet controversy is a contemporary marketing tactic that never fails to turn heads.  But in the effort to garner salacious headlines, it’s gotten more difficult to discern the boundary between artistic freedom and tone-deaf commentary.

In Schiaparelli’s case, the question remains: was the goal to revere nature, to critique consumption or to simply dominate social media feeds for a day? The answer doesn’t really matter, because haute couture is supposed to spark thought-provoking discourse. Love it or hate it, Schiaparelli’s Spring 2023 couture collection did just that.

The post Is Schiaparelli Glorifying Trophy Hunting or Making Art? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

I used to love skiing: the wind in your hair, the thrill of the chill, the feeling of flying when speeding down a mountain or in my case, just a hill. I wasn’t an Olympian by any means, but I could comfortably hold my own and enjoy myself in the process. That all changed when I was 17. I slipped on an ice patch and hit a wooden post at full speed during a regular run. I clearly came out alive, but any hopes of ever getting back on the slopes and perfecting my technique were gone with the fear that it might happen again. I’ve avoided the winter sport ever since. That is — until this week when BOSS invited me to Kitzbühel, Austria, to experience their new collaboration with Perfect Moment.

Designed by Marco Falcioni, Senior Vice President of Creative Direction for HUGO BOSS, the capsule combines the performance expertise of luxury ski wear brand Perfect Moment with BOSS’s signature elevated athleisure aesthetic. Standout apparel from the 23-piece collection includes colour-blocked knit sweaters, tailored jackets, unisex star puffers, women’s flair-legged onesies and this ’80s-inspired ski suit that I lived in all weekend.

And I needed it, too! Austria is a country I’ve always wanted to check off my bucket list, but the weather there is no joke. It was like stepping into a cold postcard when I arrived at the ski lodge. The chalet and surrounding landscape were submerged in blankets of snow and had it not been for my new winter wear, which features high-performance, waterproof and breathable fabrics, I wouldn’t have survived long in the -10ºC frost.

Luckily, we could watch the Hahnenkamm Race — the world’s second oldest alpine skiing competition — from the Kitz Race Club and BOSS Chalet that later turned into a disco. With social stars like Jordan Barrett, Naomi Wattanabe and Akamz in attendance, and a cover band that performed nostalgic ABBA songs and other retro hits, the après-ski disco vibes were immaculate.

 

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Of course, aprés-ski fashion isn’t anything new. Without fail, every winter, some variation inevitably makes its way from the slopes to the stores. But lately, it feels like luxury fashion houses have been going extra hard in style, and BOSS x Perfect Moment is no exception. This collab checks all the fashionable boxes and is a mashup of the greatest hits of both brands. And, like me, you don’t have to be a dedicated skier to enjoy the many offerings the collection has.

Did I actually go skiing on this trip? No, I didn’t. But it inspired me to try again. I’ve also gained a new appreciation for the technique and ability of the sport by watching Austrian skier Vincent Kriechmayr win gold. So I’ve signed up for ski lessons next week as a late New Year’s resolution of sorts. Who knows how well the skiing will go, but you can bet I will look great while doing it.

The post This Collaboration Made Me Rediscover My Love of Skiing appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

On the heels of Y2K maximalism, newly minted popular aesthetics have been decidedly less indulgent as fashion begins to prioritize usefulness over exaggerated embellishments. Why? Economists have been predicting a recession for some time, and current sartorial statements suggest we’re headed there sooner rather than later. To further understand this, we can look to those who always offer comfort during times of need: celebrities.

In the midst of awards show season, fans have noticed that jewellery is reliably missing from many a red carpet look. More specifically, certain celebs have eschewed statement necklaces — an immediate sign of excess and luxury — in favour of pared-down ensembles that often look unfinished. Trend forecaster Delaney Bryant (@ufodelaney) suggests that this is all intentional, predicting the lack of A-lister glitz as an unmistakable sign of an economic downturn. Let us explain.

Recessions historically make the poor poorer and the rich richer, as those who are financially secure can jump at low-cost investment opportunities while others struggle to cover basic expenses thanks to inflation. Simply put, flaunting your wealth during an economic slump is not a good look. With the growing public criticism of celebrities (read: nepo babies), the rich and famous are acutely aware of that. Perhaps that’s why, rather than presenting flashy signs of opulence, we’re seeing a shift toward ambiguous affluence from celebrities and designers alike.

For starters, the Fall 2023 menswear runways have been overwhelmingly minimal. Instead of vivid colours and sparkling adornments, there’s a rise in earthy tones, versatile layering, little to no jewellery, and practical bags (farewell to the micro-mini purse). Givenchy presented a refined take on distressed workwear. JW Anderson prioritized comfort with models clutching pillows and wearing oversized T-shirts and sweaters. Vtmnts opted for no-frills suiting as a direct response to inflation. Instead of busy, logo-mania motifs, designers are prioritizing functionality for all. Case in point: menswear is not just for men anymore.

If the recent menswear runways are any indication, androgyny is no longer provocative — it’s just the new norm. Many labels featured men in skirts. There were waist-cinching silhouettes at Saint Laurent. Egonlab’s gender-neutral collection arguably skewed more feminine than ever. Acne Studios, too, intentionally blurred traditional gender distinctions by blending ultra-masculine with ultra-feminine. This approach is not only more inclusive, but it’s also more accessible. In an economic downturn, everyone is generally shopping less. But when made universally wearable, clothing becomes more of a worthwhile investment. Ultimately, nothing is quite as economical as gender-fluid style.

In that way, a new age of crafty economically informed dressing can lead to more experimentation and rule breaking. At the same time, it’s a reminder of the cyclical nature of fashion. Take the current fad of metallic tones, which have made their return via silver jewellery, chrome clothing and reflective manicures. TikTok trend forecaster Mandy Lee (@oldloserinbrooklyn) notes that the previous periods in which this particular aesthetic was popular — the “Y2K scare” and the 2008 recession — were also times of economic turmoil.

As such, recession core offers a change of sartorial pace that we’ve seen before. The celebratory, over-embellished McBling aesthetic preceded the 2008 recession, which then led to an era of early 2010s minimalism. Similarly, during the height of the pandemic, heavily accessorized early aughts styles were back in vogue. Now, as expected, a social shift is happening. And as always, fashion is here to reflect it.

Amid new styling statements, there’s been a gloomy heaviness to recent runways. Rick Owens put tattered seams and protective padding on models with thick black tears painted on their faces. Louis Gabriel Nouch offered a chilling ode to the 2000 thriller American Psycho, which famously critiques materialism and the quest to accumulate capital. Above all, these presentations point out the fears that come from economic uncertainty.

Of course, there’s something admittedly dystopian about our culture’s tendency to organize everything into an aestheticized category, even a recession. On the other hand, it makes the state of the world somewhat easier to understand and grapple with. After all, if we reframe an impending slump as yet another kooky fad, we can at least be comforted by the knowledge that, like any cyclical trend, it will end eventually.

The post “Recession Core” Is Exactly What You Think It Is, Unfortunately appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Just proceed with caution.

Love them or hate them, you can’t deny the lasting pop culture power of a leg warmer. For starters, they hold a hearty amount of nostalgia (or ’80s trauma, depending on who you ask). First worn by dancers, leg warmers were — allegedly — made to keep muscles warm and prevent shin cramping, which is a thing, apparently. But when examined critically, anyone can see that they actually had another agenda: world domination.

Soon, these glorified tubes of yarn were ubiquitous within the 1980s fashion scene. In their heyday, they were worn in bright colours with everything from jeans and skirts to exercise leotards. Though they had a brief stint in the 2000s thanks to stars like Britney Spears and The O.C.’s Mischa Barton, they mostly fizzled out of fashion’s favour. Or so we thought. As a testament to the trend cycle’s undying power, leg warmers have weaselled their way back into the limelight — not as an alternative accessory, but as a closet staple of modern-day It girls.

For better or worse, they once again have the leg up, so to speak. And we have TikTok to thank. On the trendsetting app, leg warmer content is vast and inescapable. It first took off as part of the viral balletcore aesthetic early this year. They’re a part of Bella Hadid’s street style. They’ve made appearances on the red carpet thanks to Billie Eilish and Willow. They’ve even made it to luxury runways like Miu Miu and Fendi.As the weather turns, each day there are more TikToks praising their autumnal appeal, mostly seen styled with mini skirts and dresses. But for the skeptics, this revival has prompted a series of existential questions. Mainly: why?

You see, leg warmers aren’t what they appear to be. Despite what first impressions might suggest, they’re not slouchy stockings. No, these footless garments are intended to be worn with socks, thereby adding an extra step to the dressing process. Not to mention the obvious design flaws — for some reason, they keep your ankles and shins warm while completely disregarding the rest of your legs. Even their name is deceiving. If we’re being technical, they should really be called “shin warmers,” which is considerably less flashy.

Then comes the styling of it all. With an unfinished-looking design and gravity-defying silhouette, everyone looks just a bit wacky in them. But perhaps that’s where their appeal truly lies. Leg warmers: the great equalizer?

Worn with chunky combat boots, kitten heels, sneakers, and of course, ballet flats, today’s leg warmers have no limits. Pull them up to mimic thigh-high boots. Scrunch them down for a grunge moment. In the inevitable event that the rest of your legs are cold, hike them up to make your very own thigh warmers (your ankles will freeze, but no matter).

To be fair, as trends come and go, leg warmers are refreshingly sustainable. On TikTok, people are knitting their own or simply repurposing old jeans and hoodies. And in the inanimate object’s defence, they’re the only design out there dedicated to dressing up your lower leg alone. So, if nothing else, they make an often overlooked body part feel special. And everyone deserves that, I suppose.

To those of us who value comfort, their return may seem puzzling. But it really shouldn’t be. Look around — we’re living in an age defined by selective-limb coverings. Arm warmers, fingerless gloves and balaclavas are all having a major moment, and they’re not going anywhere anytime soon. After all, there seems to be a growing appreciation for unapologetically impractical, so-bad-they’re-good designs. And when you think of it that way, leg warmers are camp.

So, in the spirit of putting wackiness over wearability, why not kick back, slip on some leg warmers and let your over-embellished ankles do the talking?

The post Should You Give Leg Warmers a Chance? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Over-skirting the issue

Houghton Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Amsale Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Halfpenny Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

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Seen at Houghton, Amsale and Halfpenny for Fall 2023, overskirts provide the ultimate two-in-one look. From the back, they give your wedding dress a ballgown silhouette. From the front, they typically circle a column or other fitted style, adding volume to the sides. In many cases, overskirts are detachable, so you can enjoy the drama of a full skirt for your walk down the aisle, then have a bit more freedom for dinner and dancing.

Less is more

Monique Lhuillier Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Andrew Kwon Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Theia Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

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A full-length gown is the classic bridal choice, but a short party dress somehow manages to be just as exciting — perhaps because it’s so unexpected. A dress of this style, which cropped up at Monique Lhuillier, Andrew Kwon and Theia, is a playful pick for the rebel bride and makes sense for unconventional venues, less-formal gatherings and exclusive (read: small) guest lists.

Bow down

Nadia Manjarrez Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Amsale Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Legends Romona Keveza Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

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There’s something sweet and girlish about a bow — but make it the centrepiece of a wedding dress design and it feels sculptural and modern. Whether you opt for puffy bow sleeves as seen at Nadia Manjarrez, a bow-tied neckline as shown at Amsale or a big bow on the back of your frock (which was all over the Fall 2023 lookbooks, including at Legends Romona Keveza), a big and beautiful bow is a feminine detail that makes a wedding dress feel unique.

Drop it like it’s hot

Rami Al Ali Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Nadia Manjarrez Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Madeline Gardner Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

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Often associated with the flapper dresses of the 1920s, the dropped waist is making its return in bridal wear. The style flares out at the hips instead of the natural waist, making the torso appear longer and accentuating curves. Though technically a vintage design, the dropped-waist gown — seen at Rami Al Ali, Nadia Manjarrez and Madeline Gardner — manages to walk the line between classic and modern.

Skinny is in

Theia Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Theia Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Amsale Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

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Itty-bitty straps are the dainty detail that’s appeared all over the Fall 2023 bridal collections, from Theia to Amsale. A classic ’90s look popular in shows like Sex and the City and Friends, the spaghetti strap has made a streetwear comeback over the past couple years. Now, you can give the decade a nod with your wedding-day ensemble.

The great divide

Katherine Tash Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Alexandra Grecco Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Reem Acra Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

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The slit has long been a red carpet staple, but it’s only more recently become a covetable wedding dress feature. At Katherine Tash, Alexandra Grecco and Reem Acra, a clean slice along the side or centre of a gown takes the look from virginal to sexy in a flash. If your personal style is more bombshell than princess, this bridal trend is likely a welcome change.

Suit up

Lapointe Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Amsale Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

Houghton Fall 2023. Photography Courtesy of ImaxTree

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If your dream wedding dress isn’t actually a dress at all, or if style and comfort hold equal importance in your mind, then a white suit could be your perfect wedding look. This season’s styles are relaxed, with oversized blazers and wide-legged trousers. They also include fun details, like feathers at LaPointe or a plunging neckline at Houghton. A suit-inspired dress, as seen at Amsale, is another way to go. But whatever you choose, it need never be boring.

The post The Bold and Beautiful Bridal Trends We’re Eyeing for Fall appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

But the biggest takeaway from these last few weeks is the marrying of style with celebrity sightseeing. Game of Thrones’ Gwendoline Christie started the show at Thom Browne. FKA Twigs walked at Miu Miu. Ye surprised everyone at Balenciaga. Cher made her runway debut at Balmain. And then, a few weeks ago, Paris Hilton made a surprise cameo at Versace and Lil Nas X closed the Coach show. The list goes on.

What does this mean moving forward? Well, this trend has been some time in the making. The fashion world becomes increasingly crowded, and for brands, it’s becoming harder and harder to stand out. A simple solution is to invite a famous face onto the stage and watch the social media traffic roll in. So next season, expect to see even more cameos.

Until then, we’ve rounded up the most viral moments from Paris Fashion Week, including Bella Hadid at Coperni, Loewe’s balloon shoes and more.

Chanel: Gabrielle meets Kristen Stewart

At a show with many inspirations — freedom of movement, Karl Lagerfeld, the Nouvelle Vague, the 1961 film Last Year in Marienbad —one muse stood out above the rest: Kristen Stewart. “Of the people around me, [Kristen] is the closest to Gabrielle Chanel, at least to my idea of her,” noted creative director Virginie Viard. “She understands Chanel, its clothes. And with her, it becomes even more modern. This collection, it’s also her.” The looks channelled Stewart’s laid-back energy with slouchy trousers, flowing fabrics and deconstructed prints, not to mention numerous short sets (a style that broke all the rules when Stewart wore it to the (excessively dressy) 2022 Oscars).

Dior: Who run the world? Girls!

In the five years that creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has been at Dior, the message has been clear: Who run the world? Girls! Okay, well, technically, it wasn’t her but Beyoncé who said these words, but Chiuri has always done her talking through her collections, and this Spring 2023 assortment wasn’t any different. In line with her other past muses, this season, the designer dedicated her collection to Catherine de’ Medici, the powerful 16th-century ruler and early feminist icon. Her three-decade reign was reinterpreted through dramatic, Medieval-inspired looks, complete with corsets, hoop skirts, black lace and embroidery.

Louis Vuitton: Threatening beauty

For Nicolas Ghesquière, creating Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2023 presentation was a collaborative process. He enlisted the help of French artist Philippe Parreno and production designer James Chinlund (The Batman) to build a massive set reminiscent of a “carnival flower” with large, red petals — almost violent in its beauty. “It’s the first time I designed a collection in dialogue, in correspondence, with someone,” he says, and the collaboration was evident in the proportions of each look, from giant zippers and inflated necklines to zoomed-in prints. “The idea was to look at something pretty, something sweet, and to see in those elements what strength they have.”

Coperni: Bella Hadid broke the Internet

 

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Unless you were doing a major cleanse or your phone broke, chances are this Bella Hadid moment at Coperni was ALL over your social media feed. In case you did miss it, the designers at Coperni spray painted a white dress onto the model (on the actual runway!) using a patented spray-on fabric developed by a London-based company, Fabrican. While the garment initially looked like spider webs, the layers instantly transformed into a pebbled cloth, and Bella Hadid looked ready to go clubbing. But let’s give credit where credit is due: Alexander McQueen did it first. In fact, he did it 23 years ago for his Spring 1999 collection when robots spray painted a model wearing a white dress. Still, Coperni did it well, and it was an incredible moment to watch.

Balenciaga: The one with the mud

Balenciaga by Demna always promises a viral moment or two and Spring 2023 didn’t disappoint; models strutted through a mud pit, puddles and all, as wet dirt spackled their legs. According to the show notes, the muddy display was a metaphor for digging for truth and being down to earth. Ye opened the unconventional presentation, stomping down the runway in a black utility jacket and leather moto pants — hood up over a ball cap emblazoned with “2023.”

Thom Browne: This isn’t Disney’s Cinderella

Fashion and fantasy have always been intertwined, but no more so than in Thom Browne’s Spring 2023 collection. Telling the story of Cinderella through clothing, actor Michaela Jaé Rodriguez played “Cindy” and came down the catwalk in all white. Game of Thrones’ Gwendoline Christie was “Charming,” dressed in a duchess silk satin embroidered dressing gown. Then there were the stepmother and stepsisters in polka-dots, their cat, cleverly alluded to in a jacket with yarn-ball embroidery, mice in bows, the fairy godmother and her entourage in poodle skirts, and one giant glass slipper at the end of the runway. Happily ever after never looked so good.

Botter: Condom couture

If you think condoms have only one use, think again. At Botter, models wore the prophylactics as gloves — albeit, pretty impractical ones — filled with dyed water. For designers Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, it was a way to “collaborate with nature” and raise awareness about the plight of our oceans, which fill with more and more plastic each year. In the same vein, many of the looks were inspired by scuba gear (as though the models were peeling their wetsuits off of their shoulders), while some of the clothing was made from a kelp-based fabric. They promise more of the groundbreaking technology in seasons to come.

Loewe: Balloons, and minis and plastic flowers, oh my

Trust JW Anderson to get everyone talking. The creative director sent models down the Loewe Spring 2023 runway in micro-mini dresses, balloon shoes, plastic arthuriums and 8-bit motifs. The wild designs blurred the lines between the real, the fake and the digital. It was a study in contradictions.

The post Bella Hadid Breaks the Internet at Coperni + Other PFW Viral Moments appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Of course, it wouldn’t be Fashion Week without nods to the current cultural climate. Across the Italian city, runways referenced the anxiety we’re all feeling in 2022. Designers combined hardness and levity, with burgeoning trends including biker aesthetics, veils as streetwear, maximalist layering and lots of unconventional footwear. And more often than not, collections referenced the past. This week, nostalgia was a collective source of inspiration as some brands revamped their archives while others tapped era-defining celebrities.

From head-turning stunts to more-is-more ensembles, Milan Fashion Week Spring 2023 set a new standard for meme-worthy material. Below, we break it down with a roundup of this year’s most viral runway moments.

Gucci: Two is better than one

Identical twins have long been used as a tool for captivating — albeit sometimes frightening — storytelling. After all, seeing double forces us to reconsider, reinterpret and relish in what’s in front of us. So it only makes sense that at Gucci’s Spring 2023 show, there was a lot to take in. Creative director Alessandro Michele sent 68 sets of identical twins down the runway for his “Twinsburg” presentation. With clashing patterns, flashy sequins, low-slung skirts and other-worldly accessories, the maximalist collection was an unrestricted exploration of identity. Not to mention, it gave us a whole new appreciation for matching sets.

Versace: That’s hot

Is there anything more quintessentially Y2K than Paris Hilton? In the age of early 2000s nostalgia, Versace had the right idea when it tapped The Simple Life star to close its Spring 2023 show. Donning a hot pink sparkly mini dress, Hilton’s runway look was reminiscent of a night out clubbing circa 2002. But Donatella Versace’s vision went beyond glitzy heiress chic. Her collection had an underlying dark aesthetic, featuring hoods, spiky knits, motorcycle jackets and leather mini skirts. Most notable? The runway’s theme of edgy veils in black, purple and acid-wash yellow. Looks like next spring will be the season of punk-ified brides.

Avavav: Trip-ups happen

 

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A fall on the runway garners attention — and usually not the kind a brand is looking for. But for Avavav’s first live show, models intentionally tripped all over the place. One by one, they dramatically fell to the floor — knees buckling and arms flailing — in a running gag that parodied the very nature of the catwalk. The collection, titled “Filthy Rich,” was creative director Beate Karlsson’s way of exploring fashion’s obsession with displays of wealth and superficiality. Unsurprisingly, the unconventional presentation featured even kookier designs. Think chicken feet shoes, bedazzled dollar-sign motifs, Rolex chokers and Chewbacca-esque boots. It’s satire-meets-sartorialism. And we’re totally falling for it.

Diesel: Is that a skirt or a belt?

It’s a micro-mini skirt’s world, we’re just living in it. For Diesel’s Spring 2023 presentation, creative director Glenn Martens proved fashion’s fixation on the Y2K garment isn’t disappearing, it’s evolving. The ’90s denim brand experimented with the trend via barely-there strap skirts in silver, shredded fabric and alligator-skin-like leather. The collection also redefined what denim can do by introducing boxy biker jackets, bustiers, feathery visuals and acid-wash mini dresses. Even decades later, Diesel continues to prove it has its proverbial hand on the pulse.

Fendi: These shoes aren’t made for walking

If we’ve said it once, we’ve said it a hundred times: absurdist footwear is the moment. On the Fendi runway, creative director Kim Jones put a modern twist on trending platforms by presenting iterations of fuzzy slides, knee-high boots and sleek sandals. The collection referenced his predecessor Karl Lagerfeld and presented sheer, layered and silky silhouettes that blended muted hues with garish greens. But it was the rubber wedges that really stole the show. After slipping out of them due to a moisturizing mishap, one model took off their shoes mid-catwalk — offering a perfect photo-op for the logo-emblazoned soles.

Dolce & Gabbana: Keeping Up With The Kardashians

With a track record of misogyny, racism and homophobia, Dolce & Gabbana has a reputation — and not the good kind. But so, too, does Kim Kardashian. And after wearing a lineup of vintage outfits for her sister Kourtney’s Dolce & Gabbana-themed wedding, the beauty mogul entered talks with designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to curate their next presentation. The result? A collection titled “Ciao Kim” filled with corsets, gauzy dresses and leopard prints pulled from the 1987 to 2007 archives. Throughout the show, a video of her eating spaghetti played in the background, models wore blinged-out chokers that read “Kim,” and Kardashian-approved body-con silhouettes ruled the runway. It was an unadulterated ode to the reality star and the Italian brand, murky ethics and all. Come to think of it, it’s a collab that kind of works.

BOSS: It’s called power dressing

As Naomi Campbell opened the BOSS show in an oversized suit and trench coat, she set the tone for the presentation’s central theme: What does a boss look like? For the label’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection, creative director Marco Falcioni reinvented archival pieces to fit the ever-changing description of a leader today. Inspired by “soft power,” the collection traded in the rigid tailoring of the past for playful proportions, slouchy silhouettes and mixed textures. Models of all different genders, sizes and heights walked the runway sporting edgy elements like biker helmets, leather accents and futuristic metallics. In doing so, Boss deconstructed the politics of the power suit.

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The subversive schoolgoer has become a defining trend on the 2022 runways. Louis Vuitton put an androgynous take on the classic suit and tie by erring towards slouchy silhouettes, while Miu Miu presented a skimpy version of the traditional pleated skirt with its micro-mini. For its resort 2023 collection, Coach goth-ified the schoolgirl image by adding dark elements like thick chokers, leather accents and bold lipstick. We must say, prep’s new look is long overdue.

The conservative aesthetic in mainstream media—comprising vests, pearls and knee-high socks—has traditionally been sported by the white privileged and prestigious academic circles. These so-called preppy characters like Pretty Little Liars’s Spencer Hastings, Gossip Girl’s Blair Waldorf and Clueless’s Cher Horowitz each had personal styles that coincided with their high-ranking social statuses. And in the 2000s and early 2010s, this “old money” aesthetic was a source of mainstream fashion aspiration.

Back then, all-American preppy labels like Abercrombie & Fitch and Ralph Lauren reigned supreme as sartorial status symbols that only a select few could afford. But with the dawn of a new decade, these rules are being rewritten.

Aside from dominating the runways, edgy academia has become a staple in recent statement-making celebrity-style moments. Dua Lipa opted for a skin-bearing tweed set on a night out. Bella Hadid put a punky spin on a varsity jacket and stockings. Cynthia Erivo paired a shirt and tie with leather pants for a Vogue cover shoot. Notice a theme? Straight-laced preppy style is practically begging for a rebrand—it has been for awhile.

Full disclosure: putting a spunky spin on classic campus attire isn’t necessarily new—designers have been doing it for years. But the pandemic sparked a unique urge to dress defiantly and push back on established systems. As a result, the culture of prestigious institutions is being called into question, from exclusionary university enrollment practices to stuffy elementary school dress codes. Today, democratized collegiate wear is more relevant than ever.

Thanks to rebellious styling that satirizes the school girl oeuvre, new age prep is DIY-friendly. Secondhand shopping platform Poshmark reported a spike in searches for collegiate wear. And on TikTok, “thrift shopping preppy” has over 200 million views. With individualized styling, the new faces of academia-inspired fashion don’t adhere to its outdated rules. And why should they?

For so long, “aspirational” Ivy League marketing imagery has been monopolized by white students. But as a new generation questions the existing prestige politics of academia, fashion is revisiting its exclusionary history, too. Re-enter Ralph Lauren.

In March, the brand honoured Black academics with a retro photoshoot of campus-inspired apparel at historically Black colleges and universities. As the label’s first campaign featuring exclusively Black talent, the shoot signals a necessary shift in scholastic Americana iconography.

From unusual designs to increased representation, the conventional preppy aesthetic—with its connotations of power and exclusivity—is being definitively disrupted.

By doing away with its buttoned-up associations, reimagined collegiate wear turns a traditionally cookie-cutter look into a maximalist styling opportunity. But beyond that, the trend calls attention to academia’s exclusionary roots. Consider us well-schooled.

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Rihanna was the first to mark their return. On a recent outing with partner A$AP Rocky, the beauty mogul donned a pair of massive denim heeled thigh-high boots from Y/Project’s spring-summer 23 collection. The shoes were tall and wide, grazing the bottom of her mini skirt and leading some to mistake them for pants. With that, the case for confusing footwear was reopened.

Just this week, Kim Kardashian, Khloe Kardashian and Kylie Jenner have stepped out in an iteration of the slouchy sky-high boot. And months ago, excessive footwear was stomping all over the fall 2022 runways. Designers such as Isabel Marant, Alaïa and Balenciaga all introduced their own take on the utterly oversized shoe. As these boots climb higher and higher, I worry for feet everywhere.

I can get past the fact that they resemble my dad’s waterproof waders. It’s the logistics that leave me dumbfounded. With furrowed material that widens out at the top, they appear to defy gravity. Their vague similarity to the Sorting Hat from Harry Potter leaves me wondering if they’ll come alive. They rub together as you step, creating a sensation that I can only imagine is comparable to wading through quicksand. The fact is, these boots are simply not made for walking.

Don’t get me wrong, I understand their subversive appeal. After rising to womenswear prominence in the 1960s, traditional thigh-high boots have long been marketed as “sexy.” By making them absurdly large and adding an unkempt edge, slouchy boots undermine the gendered associations of their original form.

And sure, there’s an upside to shoes that look like they can eat you whole. I’d like more footwear to double as a secret bunker in emergency situations. Impracticality aside, I can see how they might fit into a celebrity’s lifestyle. Perhaps that’s why Rihanna has long defended them.

In 2018, Y/Project infamously collaborated with Ugg on a presentation that sent models thumping down the runway in boots that crept up to the crotch, with excess material spilling over itself. The collection left the internet divided, and the show was instant meme fodder. Not long after, though, the Fenty Beauty CEO wore the daring design, deeming it actually cool.

But fashionable or not, their wearability isn’t great. They’re super hot. As in, too warm. They’re hard to move around in. They even fall down slightly as you walk. And that’s where I really take issue. With an oversized, beaten-down, wrinkly appearance, slouchy thigh-high boots send a false promise of coziness. If I’m going to walk around in potato sack pumps, I believe I should at least reap the benefits of comfort. Is that so wrong?

Unfortunately for me, such boots are no longer just a fever dream of 2018. New iterations dominate recent designer collections, and Rihanna has yet again given her street-style stamp of approval. Sensing a theme here? These shoes are back, and it should come as no surprise.

After all, the return of XXL fashion has been seasons in the making. Last winter, oversized Y2K Moon Boots made their mark as a celebrity must-have, signalling the demand for chunky cold-weather shoes. In the realm of revived impractical footwear, it seems the Moon Boot walked so the slouchy boot could run — err, trample.

Despite their trendiness, scrunchy thigh-highs reliably leave me confused. But I suppose that’s the whole point. These boots aren’t supposed to make sense, they’re supposed to make a statement. And if the goal is to get me to feel something — be it visceral stress — then mission accomplished, shoes.

The post Colossal Thigh-High Boots Are Back, I Fear appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

Here’s what you need to know about the burkini:

What is a burkini?

If you keep up with fashion and the news, you’ve probably heard of the term burkini by now. The burkini is a combination of the words burqa (a modest outer garment that covers you up from head to toe) and bikini. Simply put, it’s a full-body swimsuit: modest, sleek and breathable. (With bonus UV protection!)

Zanetti designed it to give women a body-covering swimwear option that doesn’t require them to have to fumble with their own DIY outfits. 

 

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Of course, Muslim women have been going to the beach long before the burkini was invented, but their clothing options were limited. In the past, if you wanted to enjoy yourself in the sun, sand and sea, you would most likely have to make do with a baggy shirt and exercise leggings. 

But since then, other designers have jumped on the burkini bandwagon and the concept has continued to grow and break ground alongside the broader modest fashion movement as “an expression of faith, fashion and defiance.”

 

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Case in point: In 2019, Kenyan-American model Halima Aden became the first Muslim model to appear in a burkini in the daring Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue.

The burkini has also since been adopted by non-Muslim women. That might be surprising to some, but shouldn’t be if you consider it’s not actually a religious clothing item. When it comes to style, think of it as scuba suit takes the runway. Many burkinis are designed with flattering skirts, as well as detachable elements to cover your hair. 

 

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So, why are burkinis controversial? 

Unfortunately, policing women’s bodies and what they choose to wear is nothing new. What was always meant to be a modest swimwear option is instead being seen as a political statement or even worse, a “threat.”  Recently, a Winnipeg woman and her two daughters were told they couldn’t enter the pool at Lilac Resort in Ste Anne, Man. because of what they were wearing. Halima Jelloul, her husband and children were approached by the owner who thought their outfits were streetwear, which is not allowed in the waterpark. He later apologized.

Unfortunately, similar scenes have played out across Canada and around the world. Due to ignorance and Islamophobia, many women have been targeted because of what they choose to wear at the beach or a swimming pool. France has a country-wide ban on burkinis and women in Italy can be fined up to 500 euros for wearing one.

“[People] have misunderstood the burkini swimsuit,” Zanetti told The New York Times in a 2016 interview. “Because the burkini swimsuit is freedom and happiness and lifestyle changes — you can’t take that away from a Muslim, or any other woman, that chooses to wear it.”

The post What Is a Burkini — and Why Has It Become Controversial? appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

The boots are a twisted creation of Avavav, the Florence-based brand whose creative director, Beate Karlsson, is responsible for other preposterous garments such as a dress that appears to be sprouting goitres from the hips and a pair of silicone bike shorts crafted to mimic a photorealistic ass, nicknamed “The Bum.” The very existence of such garments raises the question “Where do we draw the line between clothing and costume?”

People wear costumes to transform themselves into someone else. They are pantomimes, used to escape one’s present circumstances. But the startling garments I’ve seen lately don’t seem to reflect a desire to place oneself within an alternate reality; rather, they seem to be a manifestation of who we are. As renowned fashion critic Sarah Mower wrote in her review of Loewe’s Fall 2022 show, “In times when reality becomes outrageous and nonsensical, it’s only logical that fashion should start to reflect illogicality.” In a world where there are no rules and nothing matters, the only thing left to dress up as is ourselves.

The Avavav boots join a litany of other bizarro items that while not exactly “taking over” are certainly ascending in popularity. The Fall 2022 runways were dominated by surrealistic elements, like Loewe’s balloon bustier dresses and Moschino’s musical-instrument ensembles. Even eternally ladylike Dior embraced eccentricity with glow-in-the-dark tubes sewn onto bodysuits. The ascendancy of new style icons like Sara Camposarcone, a content creator based in Hamilton, Ont., whose style resembles what the unholy love child of a clown and a fairy princess might wear, and New York’s Clara Perlmutter, better known as @tinyjewishgirl on TikTok, who looks like a Gen Z reincarnation of a ’90s club kid, confirms that after a long absence, irony and freakishness are back.

Every day is like Halloween more than two years into a global pandemic in which the simple act of getting dressed has become a celebration of life. Perhaps clothing has become so anarchic to compensate for the fact that living through one of the scariest imaginable events in human history has turned out to be less like the dystopian film Mad Max and more like Groundhog Day — just with more screen time.

“I gravitate toward colour and sparkle because they bring me joy,” says Shea Daspin, 32, an LA-based stylist who describes her approach to dressing as similar to the technique artist Marcel Duchamp popularized, in which he created sculptures out of a variety of found objects. Daspin began dressing like Rainbow Brite on acid at the age of 13 after discovering Japanese street-style magazine Fruits, which has been her stylistic North Star ever since. “I have a lot of different personalities within me, and it’s almost like I want to express them all at the same time,” she says. One day she might dress up as a rich Park Avenue socialite, another day as a handler at the Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show. But don’t call it a costume. “Just because something is over-the-top doesn’t mean it’s a costume,” she says.

Growing up, Daspin’s unconventional style marked her status as an outsider. But as culture has become more receptive, even celebratory, of wild clothes, she now sees her wardrobe as a way of spreading happiness to strangers. “It’s not a form of activism per se, but it’s hard to see a bunch of sparkles and not think ‘That’s fun.’”

The hunger for endless whimsy may also be a side effect of experiencing the world primarily through screens. Boring outfits simply don’t capture your attention when you’re scrolling endlessly through an app. It’s always the more outlandish the better, which is perhaps why TikTok trends like “clowncore” and “night luxe” are seemingly ephemeral, appearing and disappearing so quickly.

The prevailing appetite for absurd clothes is not only an outcome of the past but also a vision of the future. Much is being made of the metaverse — a parallel virtual reality in which inhabitants can outfit themselves like the avatar in a video game, donning dresses covered in scorching flames, for example, or veiled in a cloud of mist. In the metaverse, anyone can dress like it’s the Met Gala, even if they’re at home in sweatpants.

Fashion — and culture at large — is in the midst of a mass reimagining of possibilities. Previous boundaries — such as not being able to wear a dress that’s on fire — no longer apply. Even if an item doesn’t initially make sense in real life, it might feel at home in a digital archive where a person can still experience the playfulness of dressing up without being subject to real-world limitations.

Perhaps the nonsensical Avavav slime boots didn’t compute for me, not because they are ridiculous or impractical but because they weren’t meant for the earthly realm at all.

This article first appeared in FASHION’s September issue. Find out more here.

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So, how do you look cute when you’re pedalling away? Shorts and pants still rule Copenhagen’s streets, but almost anything goes including skirts and dresses that allow for plenty of movement. Just remember to avoid too much volume or length—chain snags and oil stains are decidedly un-chic.

And don’t forget accessories. Opt for a stylish backpack, crossbody bag or hanging tote to free up your hands. (A bouquet of flowers in the front basket won’t hurt either.)

Whether you rent a city bike or have one of your own that’s gathering dust, now’s the time to hop on two wheels and enjoy the ride. Click through the gallery below for all the delicious outfit inspiration you could want, direct from Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Photo courtesy of ImaxTree

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The post The Latest Fashion Girl Accessory? A Bike, Of Course appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

As far as polarizing pants go, Bermudas reign supreme. The high-waisted, pleated, knee-length shorts have gained an anti-chic reputation that can only be described as retired tourist attire. When you think “Bermuda shorts,” you may envision them paired with a tropical print T-shirt and fanny pack. Perhaps they’re being worn by your grandpa on a cruise. If that’s the case, I don’t blame you.

Offering comfort above all else, the oversized Bermuda shorts are not what one would call objectively “cute.” I was once a long shorts hater, writing them off as frumpy and boxy without truly giving them a chance. Instead, I frequently opted for itty bitty daisy dukes in the summer, despite feeling uncomfortable wearing them. And TBH, there was no good reason for my disdain towards Bermudas.

Luckily, the shorts have been having a redemption arc for a while. They’re all over TikTok. They’re worn by the likes of Emily Ratajkowski, Bella Hadid and Meghan Markle. And just recently at Copenhagen Fashion Week, designers Henrik Vibsko and Baum und Pferdgarten presented their own take on the knee-grazing pants. So it’s official: Bermuda shorts are cool again. But not everyone is thrilled about that.

As a refined take on traditional culottes and a distant cousin of oversized jorts, opinions on the garment remain mixed. And I get it. I mean, Bermudas are pretty confusing. With their billowy material, they can easily be mistaken for skirts. And their knee-length tailoring teeters into capri territory — a place that few are willing to enter. Some even argue the garment shouldn’t be considered “shorts” at all. But it’s this elusive identity that has allowed Bermudas to play a part in the evolution of genderless fashion.

Originating as a menswear design in the 20th century, their light fabric and breezy ventilation made them the ideal bottoms for hot summers. But into the early 21st century, shorts of any kind were controversial, and wearing clothing associated with a gender other than your own could lead to trouble with the law. As clothing deemed “socially acceptable” evolved through the decades, the shorts took off among women. By the ‘90s, they were a staple of stylish dressers like Laura Dern and Princess Diana. And in the early aughts, they continued to infiltrate runways.

Since their rise in popularity, however, Bermuda shorts have gained a reputation for being practical but unfashionable — until now. If you couldn’t tell by the cargo pant renaissance, we’re clearly in the age of reviving the sartorially uncool.

And after all, what’s not to love about Bermudas? Their modest tailoring and effortlessly flared cut make them ideal for summertime comfort. Not to mention, they’re a styling no-brainer. Channel the big pants, small shirt trend by wearing them with a tube top, or opt for a grungy look by sporting a baggy tee or flowy button-up. Slip them on with flats or platform boots. Wear them to the office or the beach.

All things considered, Bermuda shorts are a timeless, versatile staple. And with a history rooted in gender-neutral dressing, they embody fashion’s new freedom. Right now, anything is “in,” as long as you feel good wearing it. As for me, I’m always on a mission to honour my hot-girl summer wardrobe ambitions. Sometimes that means wearing low-rise shorts. But more often than not, it means channelling my inner grandpa. And I’m okay with that.

The post Long Live Bermuda Shorts appeared first on FASHION Magazine.

On the runway, designers have been signalling the return of the contentious shoe for some time, with brands like Miu Miu, Chanel and Simone Rocha putting their own spins on the classic design. Recent street style shots show celebs like Lindsay Lohan and Jennifer Lopez making the case for the no-frills footwear, while stars Alexa Chung and Zoë Kravtiz have long had a penchant for ballet shoes.

For a number of seasons, fashion has favoured chunkier soles, leading flats to be, as far as “trends” are concerned, sartorially outlawed. In spite of it all, the age-old shoe has risen above its modern-day critics and re-entered fashion’s good graces. But public opinion remains largely divided, which should come as no surprise.

The ballet slipper has been around for centuries as a staple in dancer uniforms. In the ‘90s and early aughts, the shoe ascended to fashion statement status thanks to trend-setters like Kate Moss, who famously paired them with her everyday outfits. Since then, the minimalist footwear design has fallen in and out of popularity. And it’s not hard to see why.

Unlike sneakers or heels, flats don’t exactly do much to accentuate body features. Because of their shapelessness, they can make legs look shorter and feet look wider (ideal!). Not to mention, the very utterance of the shoe most likely drudges up dreaded visuals of “toe cleavage.” And when it comes to structural support, there is none. Their deflated soles and tendency to squeeze toes together like a pack of sardines are, as it turns out, not so great for your feet. But, as I’m sure all the ballerinas say, that’s showbiz baby.

Despite their design defects, ballet flats have landed back on the fashion map thanks to a mix of aesthetic subgenres currently thriving on TikTok. They are the obvious footwear choice within the balletcore trend and a staple of the cutesy Tumblr-era Twee style. Ballet flats also capture the dainty Parisian fashion of the viral french girl aesthetic.

While they represented sleek, modern style in the 2000s, today, they garner nostalgia — be it from dance class, school librarians or your grandmother’s shoe closet. Of course, with each new trend revival, old styles are updated. In the case of flats, designers are introducing contemporary tweaks like chunky soles, grungy buckles and built-in anklets. Among these modernizations, though, the simple back-to-basics flat has also regained its cult fashion following.

 

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As the world opens up, the lightweight shoe has become the perfect commuter choice. Whether it’s trips to the office, school or (well-deserved) nights spent partying, flats are a portable option for hitting the road in a rush. And with their no-hands-required application, they’re the epitome of easy-access footwear. Subjective blandness aside, their meek design means they work with almost any outfit. As such, the appeal of this librarian-esque footwear becomes quite clear.

With very little padding between your foot and the floor, flats offer an air of polished sensibility and functionality. They’re an apparent antithesis to the chunky footwear trends du jour, like Crocs and Versace platform pumps. While extremist how-high-can-you-go soles are made for imaginative dressers, the classic ballet flat presents a humble alternative. Are they the most groundbreaking shoe ever invented? Not by a long shot. But do they really have to be? In the age of maximalist footwear, it’s refreshing to see a shoe that knows exactly what it is: not much of anything at all.

The post Flats Are Cute, Actually appeared first on FASHION Magazine.