FASHION Staff https://fashionmagazine.com Canada's #1 Fashion and Beauty Magazine Wed, 08 Mar 2023 16:47:41 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.3 30+ Black-Run Beauty Businesses to Shop Year-Round https://fashionmagazine.com/beauty-grooming/20-black-run-beauty-brands-you-can-support-right-now/ Thu, 02 Feb 2023 16:00:47 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=402767 One surefire way to invest in Black communities and culture is to shop from Black-run businesses. Below, we’ve rounded up a list of both emerging and established Black-run beauty and grooming brands that cater to POC and all ethnicities with the common goal of making us feel as good as we look. Looking for more? […]

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One surefire way to invest in Black communities and culture is to shop from Black-run businesses. Below, we’ve rounded up a list of both emerging and established Black-run beauty and grooming brands that cater to POC and all ethnicities with the common goal of making us feel as good as we look.

Looking for more? Check out our round-up of racism awareness books, movies, resources and more here.

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10 Style Lessons We Can Learn From Dolly Parton https://fashionmagazine.com/style/10-style-lessons-we-can-learn-from-dolly-parton/ Thu, 19 Jan 2023 16:00:53 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=415199 This article was originally published on January 18, 2021.  During her 77 years on earth, Dolly Parton has proven herself to be an angel-voiced multi-instrumentalist and the patron saint of sparkles. As we honour this philanthropist, performer, author, actress and all-around gem of a human being, let’s reflect on what we can learn from Dolly’s […]

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This article was originally published on January 18, 2021. 

During her 77 years on earth, Dolly Parton has proven herself to be an angel-voiced multi-instrumentalist and the patron saint of sparkles. As we honour this philanthropist, performer, author, actress and all-around gem of a human being, let’s reflect on what we can learn from Dolly’s divine style.

Tailor-made

 

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A post shared by Dolly Parton (@dollyparton)

While we might not be working in an office at the moment there’s no denying the timeless appeal of a great suit, an idea captured here perfectly by Dolly revelling in the success of her hit song, “9-5”.

Tip: Break up the monotony of a suiting look with combinations of stripes, polka dots and other patterns.

Short story

 

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Of course, there are many ways to wear a suit, and this kicky number comprising an embellished jacket and coordinating knee-length pants is a novel take on the traditional look.

Tip: Surprise ‘em with a shorter trouser length when selecting suiting – from ankle-grazing to pedal pushers, the thigh’s the limit.

True blue

 

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Dolly loves a denim moment, as we all do – but that doesn’t mean her glam factor falls by the wayside. There’s always room for a little razzle dazzle, even during downtime.

Tip: Elevate a simple jean shirt with a few standout accessories like hoop earrings and a chain belt.

Sweet surrender

 

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Ever the rule-breaker, lingerie dressing is a key part of Dolly’s wardrobe repertoire; the more ruffles and peek-a-boo lace, the better.

Tip: If going full boudoir is outside your comfort zone, consider pairing a sheer, long robe with an LBD.

Cover story

 

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A great jacket will never let you down, and Dolly has the toppers to prove this theory. From sequins to floral motifs and more, this wardrobe staple doesn’t need to be dowdy to look dapper.

Tip: Vintage and thrift shops are a wonderful resource for unusual blazers and jackets, with price points that encourage experimentation.

Party on

 

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Sure, shindigs seem like a distant memory right now, but we can always dream of when we’ll dance together again. Take an inspo cue from Dolly’s closet stuffed with mega-bedecked dresses meant for happier times.

Tip: If you find a dress that doesn’t have the exact silhouette you want but possesses other redeeming qualities, take it to a local tailor for a tune-up.

Monochromatic mood

 

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Maybe the only head-to-toe dressing you’ve dabbled in is #allblackeverything, but wouldn’t it be thrilling to go full-tilt with an outfit that plays with multiple shades of red, blue or pink? Do as Dolly does and try matching your makeup, too.

Tip: Wearing pieces in a monochromatic scheme is most effective when you play with proportion and shape; layering also adds oomph.

In range

 

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When Dolly embraces her country roots she really goes for it, donning western-style accessories without appearing costume-y. And to that, we tip our hat.

Tip: Consider accessories with horseshoe designs and tops with bandana-like details to achieve a subtler cowpoke effect.

Fringe benefits

 

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No self-respecting country star would dare forgo fringed pieces as part of their regular wardrobe rotation. And when you’re Dolly Parton, that swish is *obviously* crystal-encrusted.

Tip: If you find fringe intimidating as part of a garment, try wearing a bag or necklace with such adornment instead.

Number onesie

 

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Known for their comfort and lack of complication while getting dressed, jumpsuits are understandably a staple in Dolly’s stage attire.

Tip: Break up the silhouette of a jumpsuit with a loose belt, either complimentary or contrasting in style.

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Our Favourite Summer Suiting Styles Courtesy of Cannes 2021 https://fashionmagazine.com/style/celebrity-style/summer-suiting-cannes-2021/ Fri, 16 Jul 2021 16:08:16 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=432501 We’ve all been hidden away for many months, but lockdown restrictions are lifting. With this encouraging news will come invites to all sorts of socially distanced fêtes where you’ll want to leave an impression. Make the most of your entrée back on the scene by taking summer suiting cues from Cannes 2021 festival jury president […]

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We’ve all been hidden away for many months, but lockdown restrictions are lifting. With this encouraging news will come invites to all sorts of socially distanced fêtes where you’ll want to leave an impression. Make the most of your entrée back on the scene by taking summer suiting cues from Cannes 2021 festival jury president and film icon Spike Lee, and other chic attendees like Karidja Toure and Tilda Swinton. That’s right, it’s time to ditch the sweats and start dressing like you mean it.

Whether you’re heading to an intimate wedding or reconnecting with pals on a patio this summer, add some spice to the occasion with these updated takes on tailoring, from full suits to cool separates.

Glorious colour

summer suiting cannes 2021
Photography by Getty Images

Working with Virgil Abloh, Louis Vuitton’s creative director of menswear, Spike Lee made a splash on the Cannes red carpet with an array of peppy suits. For the opening ceremony, Lee donned a hot pink double-breasted number that he accessorized with matching sunglasses, a pair of Air Jordan 1s, beaded bracelets and a porkpie hat. For your own grand post-lockdown entrance, look to a rainbow of choices to give any occasion a juiced-up boost.

Get the look:

Cool pinstripes

summer suiting cannes 2021
Photography by Getty Images

Consider this classic tailoring with a twist. We loved that Karidja Toure’s glittery pinstripe pieces from Tommy Hilfiger had a touch of unexpected whimsy while still looking put-together. Achieve the same allure with pieces that are tweaked just enough that they’re delightful, not dowdy.

Get the look:

Eye-catching fabrics

summer suiting cannes 2021
Photography by Getty Images

It was hard to take our eyes off of Timothée Chalamet’s striking silvery jacquard suit by Tom Ford, which the actor accessorized with Chelsea boots and a classic pair of frames. You’ve been wearing loungewear for a long time, friend — time to get wild with metallic, floral and other punchy fabrics. Style simply or with out-there accessories as you wish.

Get the look:

Novel jackets

summer suiting cannes 2021
Photography by Lionel Hahn/Getty Images

Meanwhile, Timothée’s bff Tilda Swinton upped the red carpet ante, of course, by wearing not only a boldly coloured suit but one with a pleasingly quirky jacket. The ensemble — designed by Haider Ackermann — said stately but not stale, and the vibe can be caught by wearing toppers boasting unusual details and silhouettes.

Get the look:

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Everything to Know About Pyer Moss’s Historic — and Historically-Informed — Debut Couture Collection https://fashionmagazine.com/style/pyer-moss-couture/ Mon, 12 Jul 2021 14:09:23 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=429186 Sometimes you’re witnessing history in the making and you don’t even know it. Say, when you’re watching the unexpected pairing of players or teams at a high-stakes sporting event (there were a few notable ones this past weekend, right?). But other times, like with the case of the Pyer Moss haute couture debut on July […]

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Sometimes you’re witnessing history in the making and you don’t even know it. Say, when you’re watching the unexpected pairing of players or teams at a high-stakes sporting event (there were a few notable ones this past weekend, right?). But other times, like with the case of the Pyer Moss haute couture debut on July 10, the sense of a momentous occasion transpiring before your eyes is just the beginning of the magical narrative that unfolds.

As the first Black American designer to be invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture to present as a guest designer during haute couture week, Pyer Moss’s creative director Kerby Jean-Raymond had the eyes of the world watching his brand’s inaugural couture effort — quite literally, as it was livestreamed. And he shared a tale so rich with history, steeped in protest, and gratuitous in wit and beauty that we’ll be speaking of for decades to come.

Jean-Raymond and his team are no strangers to conceiving of collections and fashion shows that are laden with symbolism and design prowess. In the eight years he’s run Pyer Moss, he has revealed a level of acumen necessary to climb the ranks of the style world’s most covetable positions; in 2020, he was named Reebok’s global creative director and won a CFDA award for American Menswear Designer of the Year. And we were aware of the potential his designs had to be considered couture. The sensational gowns on view at the label’s most recent show in September 2019 were as grand as anything we’ve come to expect from a couture collection’s array. What we didn’t know was how this would manifest in this recent highly anticipated and significant occasion. To say expectations were exceeded is a true understatement for so many reasons.

pyer moss couture
An image of a list of Black inventors shared by Kerby Jean-Raymond via social media. Courtesy of Instagram/@kerbito.

Beyond the typical sense of drama we await during a couture show — one proffered by the sheer decadence and skill behind each laborious and lofty look — the Pyer Moss couture show had an escalated feeling of emotion given the event was initially cancelled due to torrential rain. The elegant runway that was created on the grounds of Villa Lewaro, the New York estate of Madame C.J. Walker — America’s first female self-made millionaire, entrepreneur and nurturer of the Harlem Renaissance — was deluged and slicked, making it a dangerous platform for the show’s models and performers, and an inhospitable arena for presenting what’s considered in fashion circles as the epitome of design and craft.

The crowd, which included Law Roach, Tracee Ellis Ross, Jidenna, Bethann Hardison and A$AP Ferg, stood its soggy ground under umbrellas and ponchos supplied by the label and tucked under tents, with the expectation that a weather-centric miracle would occur and the show would go on. However, at around 4 p.m. on Thursday, July 8, Jean-Raymond appeared on the runway to update the audience. He gave a bit of background on the collection, noting that the idea to create a couture line came after an ayahuasca ceremony, and said that the juncture would be the final false start for the day. A short time later, the affair was cancelled and the subsequent news arrived that it was rescheduled to Saturday. The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode also stated that haute couture week would be extended to reflect the change. Back at Villa Lewaro, bottles were still popped and blunts — much to the amusement of attendees like New York Times reporter Guy Trebay — were passed. The crowd celebrated in spite of the storm with Saturday’s impending event in sight.

Suffice to say, once attendees including Aurora James took their seats, and activist Elaine Brown took to the re-constructed stage Saturday afternoon, hopes were high and the energy was coursing, even for those of us present via computer and phone screens. When Brown departed the scene, rapper 22GZ and a group of dancers emerged. And then came the looks, each more fanciful, evocative and potent than the last.

pyer moss couture
Photography by David Prutting

Part surrealist fantasy, part political statement and part example of extreme design dexterity, the ensembles were inspired by 25 achievements — overlooked and often omitted from history books — of Black inventors and creatives. For example, look 17 was a sweepingly silhouetted nod to the fire extinguisher patent granted to Thomas J Martin; a red, white and black asymmetrically structured look boasting one of the coming season’s hottest trends, exaggerated sleeves.

There was a chessboard-checkered suit (complete with 3D pieces which will hopefully make it into production, or at least have a hurrah on a red carpet somewhere); a traffic light mini-dress; and hip wader-ish trousers in the shape of ice cream cones topped with an ice cream swirl bustier. The spirit of fashion’s most irreverent and ingenious minds, from Patrick Kelly and Yohji Yamamoto to Franco Moschino, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren was present — a combination of artistry, critique and cheekiness emblematic of what the best cases of design can accomplish: making us feel, interrogate and dream.

Post-show, the press release about it revealed another way in which Jean-Raymond is endeavouring to change the fashion industry. In a rare gesture, the names of the backstage crew, performers and others involved in its production were communicated to media and buyers — a move which illustrates Jean-Raymond’s crucial understanding of giving credit where it’s due. This was the clear ethos of the show in every aspect, whimsical and revolution-focused creativity aside, and the reason why it’s significant. Even in the days following the show, Jean-Raymond has shared more facts about the Black excellence that inspired the pieces, demanding we continue our educations now that the beauteous buzz has waned.

Because what is design without examination of the past? Other couture debuts this week at Maison Alaïa and Balenciaga saw the “updating” of philosophies and aesthetics for houses that have years-long lexicons to derive concepts from. Pyer Moss’s couture debut will be remembered as the launching point of a new direction for a thought leader who has already accomplished so much, and yet is still demonstrating he’s really just getting started.

See the full collection here.

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Our Top Ten Looks From Pieter Mulier’s Debut at the Maison Alaïa https://fashionmagazine.com/style/pieter-mulier-maison-alaia/ Mon, 05 Jul 2021 19:35:32 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=423042 If you were ever in any doubt about the resilience of capital-F Fashion, the return of in-person haute couture shows this week proves that people are ready to get dressed up again. In addition to another newsworthy debut coming on Thursday with Pyer Moss’s Kerby Jean-Raymond joining the couture calendar, the inaugural collection by Pieter […]

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If you were ever in any doubt about the resilience of capital-F Fashion, the return of in-person haute couture shows this week proves that people are ready to get dressed up again. In addition to another newsworthy debut coming on Thursday with Pyer Moss’s Kerby Jean-Raymond joining the couture calendar, the inaugural collection by Pieter Mulier for the Maison Alaïa was one of the most greatly anticipated by industry insiders and devotees of Azzedine Alaïa’s designs.

Alaïa, who passed away in 2017, has a legacy of transforming the codes of couture, making it modern, sexy and often quite minimalistic. A favourite of supermodels throughout the decades, the creative was known for using innovative materials in his primarily body-con looks — which were greatly informed by his training as a sculptor — as well as “keying” patterns into fabrics rather than using excessive embellishment.

With such prestige to measure against, Pieter Mulier took up the task of creating the brand’s first collection in four years by respecting what came before but not relying on it for credibility. The result was fun and fresh, but not a complete departure from the iconic designs that for Clueless’s Cher Horowitz, were a name drop in and of themselves.

Mulier, who worked closely with Raf Simons in his roles at Jil Sander, Christian Dior and Calvin Klein, is at the helm of a fashion house for the first time. And for his introductory effort at Maison Alaïa, he included many of its namesake’s most classic silhouettes and styles — hooded dresses, bare midriffs, sweeping hemlines — featuring them in a range of fabrics from leather to denim. Standout shoes and bags were also offered up as a nod to the brand’s reputation for creating some of the most coveted accessories in the biz.

In addition to bringing a much-loved label back to eager customers longing for extravagant wardrobe updates, Mulier’s collection heralded an element of uniqueness that spoke to his reverence for Alaïa’s trailblazing ways: It featured both couture and ready-to-wear pieces. Here are our top ten looks!

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Toronto-Based Beauty Artist Robert Weir on What Pride Past, Present and Future Mean to Him https://fashionmagazine.com/flare/celebrity/robert-weir-pride/ Wed, 30 Jun 2021 13:48:06 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422771 Hailing from the suburbs of Toronto meant Robert Weir largely didn’t feel at home in his life. “It was a time when just being yourself was dangerous,” the creative recalls. “If you walked down the street looking ‘effeminate,’ that was enough to get your ass kicked.” Despite the situational strife — and with the acknowledgement […]

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Hailing from the suburbs of Toronto meant Robert Weir largely didn’t feel at home in his life. “It was a time when just being yourself was dangerous,” the creative recalls. “If you walked down the street looking ‘effeminate,’ that was enough to get your ass kicked.”

Despite the situational strife — and with the acknowledgement that there are still hate crimes committed against the LGBTQ2S+ community everywhere every day — there was one beaming light that Weir witnessed each summer that made him feel there was the potential for freedom just within reach. “Pride was a beacon,” he says of Toronto’s parade and adjacent events. “Before I ever went, I’d see bits of it on TV. I’d think, I want to be there. If I could get there, I’d be safe and free. That’s what it symbolized for me, and what I hope it still does for people.”

Weir reflects on his initial outings to Church Street — the epicentre of the city’s “official” Pride observance — and notes that he was “lucky that I could share those experiences with a friend. Some people had to leave home and everyone they knew, and wound up [there] having to figure it out by themselves.”

Pride month has now become decentralized in a way, not only because of the COVID-19 crisis, but because the online reach of activities can surpass prescribed locations. Weir is particularly sensitive to the lives of LGBTQ2S+ people around the world given his Jamaican ancestry, and hopes the broadening momentum of Pride festivities and corporate responsibility intertwine to bring about more visibility and real change in years to come.

“I know some people are wondering why big banks and [other] corporations need to be involved,” Weir says. “But I think anything that makes Pride big enough so that teenagers in Russia and in Jamaica…for queer and trans people in Nigeria to see it and know that there’s hope. It’s important that we do a very loud Pride when we can.”

He also hopes that once Pride returns in a more robust physical manifestation in the future it retains the openness and something-for-everyone vibe that’s been cultivated over recent years — particularly given the scope of Pride-centric programming that became available over the last month. Weir notes that a rise in entertainment focused on LGBQT2S+ communities has affirmed his notion that, “Pride is in your heart, and wherever you want to be.”

Here, he pauses to consider how far his life has come, professionally as an artist whose done photo shoots around the globe, and personally as a gay man happy to witness change while feeling heartache for those still suffering.

“I was watching Pose the other day and looking at that cast and their talent and abilities and thinking that never would have happened when I was a kid, not like this,” Weir says. “It feels like progress. It can be 10 steps forward and three back, and then you go around a corner. But I feel optimistic. I see that when Black trans women die in the U.S., it doesn’t go unspoken anymore. People are outraged — finally. And I look at the progress in Jamaica with organizations like J-Flag, who are doing the work day-to-day, and at what Rainbow Railroad here in Canada is doing. I’m sure that’s been hard during the pandemic, but they bring people here so they can be safe. It feels good.”

 

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Weir says one day he would love to be able to meet folks who have come to Canada to live more freely and experience the same joy he has; one that makes him miss IRL Pride greatly. “That feeling of being around my chosen family — people who love me for my weird, queer, Black self,” as he describes it, adding that no matter how your Pride looks, though, it’s still relevant and important.

“It’s a spirit that started back at Stonewall [Inn] in 1969,” he says. “It’s everyone who fought and who died for things that I hope one day young people don’t even think about. They can just go out and live.”

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The Kidswear Market Is Booming — Here’s What You Need To Know https://fashionmagazine.com/style/kidswear-market/ Mon, 28 Jun 2021 14:13:54 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422196 Inclusivity is one of the biggest buzz words in the fashion world of late — even this very magazine has the mandate of #FASHIONforall. And there’s a growing number of designers, including recent winner of the Canadian Arts & Fashion Award for International Canadian Designer Award Tanya Taylor, Rejina Pyo, and a wealth of creatives […]

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Inclusivity is one of the biggest buzz words in the fashion world of late — even this very magazine has the mandate of #FASHIONforall. And there’s a growing number of designers, including recent winner of the Canadian Arts & Fashion Award for International Canadian Designer Award Tanya Taylor, Rejina Pyo, and a wealth of creatives under a new SSENSE department, who are hoping to capitalize on this concept with the introduction of kidswear. After all, don’t many fashion lovers claim the design bug bit them at an early age?

There are also just-launched ventures such as retail magnate Joe Mimran’s latest label created for Toys “R” Us, which has non-gendered options for infants and beyond — a move that’s sure to please parents who balk at the notion of appointing gendered tropes to their tots.

So, what’s behind this baby-to-pre-teen clothing boom? A few factors, really, from a keener focus on sustainability to opening up a dialogue about identity, to the behemoth branding concept of “lifestyle” making us feel like everything should be on point at all times. Here’s what you need to know if you have a part in dressing the next generation.

It’s a lifestyle, baby

As we have more access to celebrities now than ever before, and influencers clamour to reach and surpass similar heights of fame, many people with a platform are choosing to selectively showcase their offspring as extensions of their own coveted, lavish way of life. Any avid follower of Cardi B, for example, might be as aware of her two-year-old daughter Kulture’s wardrobe updates as those of the superstar rapper herself.

Kulture’s Instagram feed — managed by her mommy, of course — has over 1.8 million followers; nothing to sniff at when it comes to building a fashion legacy before you can use a debit card. And on any given day you can see her sporting pieces by Balenciaga and Moschino (plus more down-to-earth dressing options for a toddler like denim jackets and elephant-eared bath towels).

 

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It seemed like a natural fit, then, for Cardi B to capitalize on the interest and build on her partnership with Reebok to create a “Mommy & Me” footwear capsule collection that launched last month. The monochromatic designs include an Aqua Dust colourway which “ties back to the Aquamarine stone which represents clarity, calm and relaxation: three adjectives that Cardi uses to describe being a mom” according to a press release for about pieces.

But even us non-celebs feel the urge to step up our game for the ’gram, and having adorably adorned little ones is just another part of the personal picture we might choose to present on and offline. In early May, Montreal-based e-commerce and editorial platform SSENSE introduced a kid’s department as an extension of its Everything Else offering composed of tech, home décor, apothecary items and even fashion pieces for pets.

SSENSE kidswear
Photography courtesy of SSENSE

In a statement about the launch, chief merchandising and marketing officer Krishna Nikhil was quoted as saying that they “are bringing the distinct SSENSE point of view to kidswear with our curated yet expansive assortment, exclusive capsules from emerging and established designers and, importantly, celebrating the next generation of young creatives who are undoubtedly changing the way we see the world.”

Nikhil added that clothes and accessories for kids was a logical step after introducing Everything Else, one which “reaffirmed that our audience looks to [us] to bring meaningful curation to categories outside of fashion, such as home, self-care, technology and activity. There are endless possibilities for us to expand into new categories as the growth of our platform continues to accelerate as we scale globally.”

The initial SSENSE kid’s assortment includes pieces by upcycling-centric labels like Rave Review and Chopova Lowena, industry icons including Burberry and Versace, and newer names such as Happy99 and Museum of Peace & Quiet. To mark the occasion, the platform released a video highlighting hip, young creatives: drag queen Desmond is Amazing; producer and DJ Evan Kozin; skateboarder Fay Defazio Ebert; and knitwear artisan Jonah’s Hands. These kids, it should be noted, are indeed alright.

Sustainability-minded brands have found a novel way to reduce waste

This past Winter, London-based designer Rejina Pyo told FASHION that the environmental impact of design was weighing more and more heavily on her mind. When discussing conversations she’d have with her eponymous brand’s managing director, Pyo recalled that, “She’d say that I shouldn’t walk away, but be in this [industry] to make valuable changes.”

Enter Pyo’s first collection made for young ones aged between two to eight years old. The pieces dropped in early May and contain much of the design DNA from her adult line — voluminous silhouettes, charming prints and timeless appeal. The kidswear options are crafted in limited quantities using textiles made from organic and recycled cotton, and several styles are fabricated from archival materials from Pyo’s past collections.

rejina pyo kidswear
Photography courtesy of Rejina Pyo

As part of the drop, Pyo also pled the case for the tradition of hand-me-downs as an enduring practice. “As a designer I am drawn to people’s everyday lives and I love the idea of making clothes for the whole family, whoever that might include,” she said in a press release. “I have team members who are parents and many of my friends now have kids so it felt like a natural next step. I wanted to create a relaxed, easy-to-wear kids collection with a different twist and which doesn’t create a big divide between girls and boys fashion. It’s also important to me that the collection be made with sustainable materials and can stand the test of time. I hope these pieces are passed between friends and family for years to come.”

Conversations about self-expression and identity? Start them young.

One can’t ignore the growing momentum behind the movement to question why certain colours, patterns, fabrics and design details are designated as being for a particular gender; nor how style — and the experimentation of it — allows young people to explore their identity. As folks like actor Lachlan Watson and author Alok Vaid-Menon continue speaking out about the importance for youth (and adults!) to be encouraged to embrace and express who they, we’re sure to start seeing more children-focused brands banishing the binary in their designs.

Canadian retail giant Joe Mimran has attempted to incorporate this concept into his new kidswear label created for Toys “R” Us called Rise Little Earthling. Under the categories for “Tiny” and “Little” earthling on the brand’s website, customers will find a “They” tab (there are also generic tabs for “Baby” and “Kids” listed on the site). Amongst the array of  the black and white pieces one would likely describe as gender neutral found under “They,” there are also light peach-hued slip-on shoes, pink sunglasses and plenty of pieces in navy blue.

rise little earthling kidswear
Photography courtesy of Rise Little Earthling

“Rise Little Earthling is a purpose-driven brand that fosters inclusivity and celebrates everyone, no matter how they choose to shop,” Mimran told FASHION in an email. “Our user experience includes a variety of options because we believe in supporting and reflecting the values of our community.”

The site still lists flower-shaped sunglasses and a heart-print baseball cap under the “She” category and not under “He,” so there’s evidence this and other brands, catering to folks of all ages, still have a journey ahead to truly reflect the demand for inclusive design; one that should include paid consultation with people of all identities about their shopping experiences.

Perhaps they can also look to Victoria, B.C.’s Whistle & Flute for inspiration. Launched by Miranda McCullagh and her husband Ryan in 2012, their label isn’t broken down into gendered categories at all, and its pieces feature cartoon-y renderings of arcade game consoles and cups of bubble tea. Kid’s play on the surface — but much more than that when it comes to how we’re moulding young minds and changing older ones.

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Dior Reveals a Collection Co-Created by Travis Scott + Other Fashion News You Might Have Missed https://fashionmagazine.com/style/dior-travis-scott/ Sat, 26 Jun 2021 13:00:03 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422794 With the men’s shows in Paris in full swing, Dior dropped a surprise collaborative effort with musician and mogul Travis Scott. This, plus the new sustainability efforts heralded by Holt Renfrew, kick off the fashion news you need to know right now. Travis Scott co-created the Dior Spring 2022 menswear collection In a runway presentation […]

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With the men’s shows in Paris in full swing, Dior dropped a surprise collaborative effort with musician and mogul Travis Scott. This, plus the new sustainability efforts heralded by Holt Renfrew, kick off the fashion news you need to know right now.

Travis Scott co-created the Dior Spring 2022 menswear collection

dior travis scott
Photography courtesy of Dior

In a runway presentation in Paris yesterday, we caught the first glimpse of pieces made in a collaboration between multi-hyphenate Travis Scott and Kim Jones, the men’s artistic director at Dior. A fusion of Parisian pedigree and Texan pride (Scott hails from Houston), the collection is the first full one from Dior ever created with a musician. Its name,#CactusJackDior, riffs off the moniker of Scott’s record label, creative collective and philanthropic endeavour — a foundation that provides access to educational and creative resources, as well as a Historically Black Colleges and Universities scholarship. And as part of this new assortment, artist George Condo was tapped to make a set of hand-painted shirts to be auctioned off post-show with proceeds benefitting scholarship opportunities.

Holt Renfrew has revealed its new sustainability commitments

 

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Earlier this week, Canadian retailer Holt Renfrew introduced a host of new updates to its operations and offerings in the name of environmentalism. A press release touted that it’s “the first and only in Canada to set approved science based targets in the retailing sector,” nodding to the fact that its emissions reductions have been approved by the organization Science Based Targets “as consistent with levels required to meet the goals of the Paris Agreement.” Also included in the mandate — saying goodbye to cosmetic products that contain plastic glitter, as well as all animal fur and exotic skins; ensuring denim products will be from vetted sustainable sources by the end of 2025; and improving its waste diversion rates.

“Our customers are at the centre of our business, and we want to ensure that sustainability and innovation are at the forefront of their experience at Holts,” president and CEO Sebastian Picardo said in the release. “Retail can be a force for good, and we know that our customers want to make trusted, responsible purchases. Our 360-degree commitment to sustainability removes the barriers for them, allowing them to shop with confidence, in a responsible way.”

The bags in a collab collection between Ahluwalia x Mulberry are made with deadstock materials

 

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Adding another feather to London-based designer Priya Ahluwalia’s cap — she’s this year’s recipient of the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design — her new assortment of bags are also something to be proud of. Made in honour of the 50th anniversary of British accessory brand Mulberry, the range of locally-crafted totes are fashioned from deadstock leather; the pieces are inspired by the creative’s Indian-Nigerian ancestry. Its influence, as well as that of “Afro-Caribbean hair and night life,” according to her brand’s Instagram, is also evident in Ahluwalia’s recently unveiled Spring 2022 collection. For the new season, the designer branched out into womenswear. Many things to celebrate, it seems.

A new exclusive playlist by RuPaul for Balenciaga is available now

RuPaul Balenciaga playlist
Photography courtesy of Balenciaga

Just in time for the final days of Pride month, RuPaul has created a playlist for Balenciaga’s Apple Music platform. Comprising of hits by Britney Spears, Destiny’s Child, The Supremes, Missy Elliott and more, the set of tracks was released in tandem with a selection of unisex merch boasting the enterprising drag queen’s autograph.

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How Boy George Shaped My Style — and Sense of Self https://fashionmagazine.com/style/boy-george-style/ Fri, 25 Jun 2021 14:51:15 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422661 You could say I was boy crazy when I was young. I’d toddle around the house, as my father recalls, constantly demanding “George! George! Play George, daddy, play George!” From the tender age of one — when repetition is de rigueur for a child’s development, so I’ve read — I had eyes and ears for […]

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You could say I was boy crazy when I was young. I’d toddle around the house, as my father recalls, constantly demanding “George! George! Play George, daddy, play George!” From the tender age of one — when repetition is de rigueur for a child’s development, so I’ve read — I had eyes and ears for only one person: George Alan O’Dowd, better known as Boy George (who just turned 60, by the way, and is currently working on a biopic).

So strong was my love for the vibrantly dressed, blue-eyed, soulful star that my parents put a Culture Club (the band that made Boy George famous) poster above my potty to reinforce training as connected to something good. Albums were kept both at my parents’ home and that of my paternal grandparents so I could tumble along to their tunes at a moment’s notice.

boy george

“New wave was the new sound,” my dad says of picking up Culture Club’s first record, 1982’s Kissing to be Clever. “[But] there was no filter; you were cradled to Boy George, Brian Eno and Kraftwerk.” All artists with potent visual associations — as well as the ultimate icon of our household, David Bowie. So, what was so powerful about Boy George?

“You liked the colours,” my mum says of Boy George’s OTT ensembles and dramatic makeup. And that rainbow allegiance is as strong as ever. There was also the pattern play, and the “floppy, mismatched” glory of Boy George’s style. He had the magpie’s eye that’s strongly tied to a thrifter’s aesthetic. I’d play dress up in my mum’s eggplant-hued coat by Canadian designer Wayne Clark to mimic Boy George’s oversized pieces then; I gravitate towards anything one-size-too-big when I shop today. And when I buy clothes, it’s almost always second-hand. Most of all, his vibe was one that exuded scrappy self-assuredness. What’s not to love about that?

boy george style
Photo by Solomon N’Jie/Getty Images

My reputation for Boy George admiration was also notorious. For my second birthday, two people who worked with my dad at the Thrifty’s flagship store in Toronto — both Ryerson grads — created tiny pieces to help me replicate his style. Steven Schacht, a designer and present-day instructor at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, made me a headband with dangling pieces of thread to simulate Boy George’s braids. And Darryl Rodrigues (who coincidently styled FASHION’s Winter Issue 2020 cover story with Charlotte Rampling — it’s a small world, after all) kitted me out in a red leather mini-me mini skirt.

Unfortunately, no photos of me wearing them can be found; but it’s clear in other shots from the early eighties just how taken I was with the British pop star’s singular getups. And really, the same could be said for any images of me today, which all reveal my yen for the boldest, brightest garments and accessories available.

boy george

Of course, a toddler me didn’t understand what Boy George owed to other cultures, particularly Asian and Black, from his outfits to his sound to his hair inspo. And I’m grateful that as I got older I came to learn how much richer life is because trailblazers like Little Richard, Sylvester, Ryuichi Sakamoto, Tina Chow, Poly Styrene, Anna May Wong and Grace Jones have graced this earth. Speaking of Sylvester, in working on this story I came across a post by photographer and writer Craig Seymour called “A Black Gay Music Critic On: How Culture Club Saved My Life”, as well as this recent article by singer Beth Ditto. Both worthy reads, particularly given it’s Pride month.

When I asked when my attention drifted away from Boy George, my dad says with a laugh, “When he cut his hair.” But there was also the pull of adolescent desire of another kind — not for wanting to be, but to be with. As New Kids on The Block clocked my radar, Boy George was replaced by Jordan Knight. Also, I’d now say in a heartbeat that Jimi Hendrix is my all-time style hero. Yet another person I grew up listening to, who could mash together all manner of pieces for one inimitable outcome, and whose look truly caught my eye most during that often pivotal point in one’s experimentation with personal style — high school.

 

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One could rightly argue that my mum is my true style icon, though, and she and Boy George share more than a joyful sense of dressing and passion for vintage pieces. For most of her life, my mother’s had a close-cropped hairdo. It’s a look that’s forced her to negotiate with gender norms, with me as the witness. And Boy George has always been described as androgynous, a term that many people are pondering as the concept of gender identity and expression continues to evolve; it’s an evocative handle attributed to a visual that disrupts a long-held binary point of view.

What both have instilled in me is a sense of never feeling like I must adhere to anyone’s idea of what being “me” should look like, no matter what reactions from other’s would arise. After observing their confidence in presenting themselves however they wanted, I shaved my head at 16, and once wore jeans and a t-shirt from a Toronto pizzeria to a Chanel Haute Couture show – much to the bemusement of several fellow guests. Looking up to people who exist outside the narrow parameter that society still largely imposes created my deep conviction in the necessity of non-conformity; and I acknowledge the privilege I’ve had in holding this belief as a white, cis, straight woman.

Now, no matter what musicians might inspire me sartorially — Róisín Murphy, Steve Lacy, and Joshy Soul to name just a few — the ebb and flow speaks to my chameleon-like tendencies, and the pleasure I take in seeing others live their life out loud.

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Miss Moço on Returning to IRL Drag for Pride and Educating the Next Gen https://fashionmagazine.com/style/miss-moco-pride/ Wed, 23 Jun 2021 20:38:06 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422649 When Toronto-based drag queen Miss Moço appears at the PlayDate Pride event (with food and drink included with your ticket) on June 27, she’ll be hitting the stage with other reigning stars such as Jada Hudson, Kiara, Juice Boxx, Steak and Manny Dingo; the event will be hosted by Tiffany Boxx. For these fierce faces, […]

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When Toronto-based drag queen Miss Moço appears at the PlayDate Pride event (with food and drink included with your ticket) on June 27, she’ll be hitting the stage with other reigning stars such as Jada Hudson, Kiara, Juice Boxx, Steak and Manny Dingo; the event will be hosted by Tiffany Boxx.

For these fierce faces, the socially-distanced outdoor show won’t simply be another item in a joyful, educational and healing schedule of festivities — it will be a comeback after the thick of COVID-19 in much of Canada, a time during which many drag artists were only able to perform virtually for fans.

“The thing I miss most is 100 percent being with my friends and community,” Miss Moço says of the “magical” feelings of revelry during Prides past. “Since [the] month has become a bigger deal, [I would] be together with them every week!”

 

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Miss Moço, who also hosted a regular drag brunch at The Gladstone Hotel in the before times (and is looking forward to co-hosting an event at Stackt Market with Jada Hudson on Tuesdays throughout the summer, beginning July 6), started doing online shows when the pandemic began. Her last was during the final weekend of Pride 2020. “There were hopes we were going to be out of it all soon,” she says of that time period of confusion and perhaps naïve optimism, when she figured virtual drag was in its denouement as a common practice.

A year later, though, she and others are looking at what events are currently happening with interest and elation. “It’s a little more exciting this year because we’ve had time to figure things out, and there are a lot of interesting events to partake in,” Miss Moço notes of the diversity in Pride offerings from online dance parties to bingo to informative seminars.

She says she’s looking forward to the upcoming Drag Ball on June 26. “Boa is hosting,” she says about the Canada’s Drag Race contestant with admiration. “I enjoy seeing how other people put together absolutely incredible videos by themselves at home.” And does Miss Moço don a drag look while acting as a spectator?

“If I’m not going to be on screen then no, unless I’m in drag already,” she says. “But if I’ll be engaging with people and be seen, then I definitely will. It’s fun and shows your support.” She adds, however, that despite the fact that doing an entire drag look has a “huge amount of effort that goes into it, it’s easy to put on a pair of heels, no matter what. That’s something I’m working on getting into the feeling of, because when I go on stage I want to make sure I’m stretched and ready!”

miss moço pride
Photography courtesy of Miss Moço

Beyond the intense glam routines that one’s sure to catch the final result of during Pride, Miss Moço says there’s a video series that shines a light on a variety of identity- and appearance-focused topics worth taking note of. “There’s the Beauty in our History talks,” says Miss Moço of what programming she’s been keen to tune into this month. The series is available on the Pride Toronto YouTube channel, the most recent instalment featuring hair expert Safiya and her presentation about the history of Locs, as well tips for how to care for them.

Miss Moço says the inclusion of such content speaks to how the world — and Pride itself — is continually evolving in effort, attention and strength. “These are chances to open ourselves up to learn about things we haven’t had much exposure to,” she says, adding that the overwhelming amount of conversation around accessibility, inclusivity, and the meaning of Pride shows that there are so many important perspectives and voices to consider when celebrating and remembering.

“There are issues that need to remain at the top of our minds and continue to be exposed,” Miss Moço notes. “[Something] can’t just be a hot topic moment that fades away. It’s been a year of learning and growing.”

Miss Moço pride
Photography courtesy of Miss Moço

Speaking of both of these concepts, Miss Moço highlights that she’s been able to instil a feeling of worth, and nurture a mind for business, in the students — and future superstars — who attend a class she teaches through Toronto’s Drag Academy. “It helps them navigate discussions with corporate clients who want to book them for gigs,” she says. “And about understanding how to value their craft. That they can’t just take $100 to perform because that’s what someone offers.”

Here, Miss Moço also mentions having the opportunity to create structural change when performing for local and international corporate companies, and that however possible, she champions the notion that large organizations must support LGBTQ2S+ folks all year round, instead of merely during Pride. “People are blinded to it, and think they’re doing a good thing,” she says. “There’s always room for improvement.” And Miss Moço points to the importance of raising these ideas particularly within companies with global offices, to “spark change. There are countries people in our community still can’t go to because of who we are,” she notes.

Because of this fact, when Miss Moço discusses what Pride means to her, the answer is very matter-of-fact: “I like to celebrate my queerness every single day of the year. But, Pride Month is great to have as a spotlight on us, letting the world know that we’re here.”

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Your Guide To Drag Scenes Across Canada (Beyond Toronto, Montreal & Vancouver) https://fashionmagazine.com/style/drag-scenes-canada/ Thu, 17 Jun 2021 16:36:30 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422331 Despite the ongoing closure of queer spaces throughout the country, drag is popping up in venues all over, from straight cowboy-themed bars to libraries, bowling alleys, and cruises out on the ocean. The surge in popularity of the art form over the past decade has helped create — and in some cases, re-energize — drag […]

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Despite the ongoing closure of queer spaces throughout the country, drag is popping up in venues all over, from straight cowboy-themed bars to libraries, bowling alleys, and cruises out on the ocean. The surge in popularity of the art form over the past decade has helped create — and in some cases, re-energize — drag scenes across Canada.

Toronto, Montreal, and Vancouver may be Canada’s best-known drag hubs, but there are vibrant, captivating performers all over. As Winnipeg’s Prairie Sky puts it, “Drag happens anywhere queer people have a closet and a mirror.” With Pride Month in full swing, FASHION spoke to drag artists from five Canadian cities to learn more.

Winnipeg

 

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Treaty 1 is home to one of Canada’s most exciting drag collectives, The Bannock Babes. Rather than a drag family, which is a queer support unit of drag parents, siblings, and children, The Bannock Babes is a loose collective of 15 to 20 Indigiqueer performers who come together for powerhouse showcases of Indigenous queer culture.

Prairie Sky explains The Bannock Babes formed in 2019 because she and two other performers she worked with at the drop-in and resource centre Sunshine House saw a lack of Indigenous representation at drag shows. That’s not to say there’s ever been an absence of Indigenous drag in the city, but lineups weren’t reflecting Winnipeg’s vast Indigenous talent pool at the time. “As long as there’s been drag, there’s been Indigenous drag queens in Winnipeg,” Prairie Sky says.

Bannock Babes shows, which regularly sell out, have become a local sensation. They’ve also attracted attention well beyond Treaty 1. Since pandemic lockdowns jump-started digital drag culture, Feather Talia has booked online gigs hosted as far off as New Brunswick, and she’s performing at this year’s Toronto Pride festival on June 18. Feather Talia and fellow Bannock Babe Buffy Lo were also recently featured in a Sephora campaign.

 

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Bannock Babes shows usually happen at Club 200, Winnipeg’s only queer bar; Fame nightclub closed in February but hopes to eventually relocate. There are other spots for drag shows, though, including the queer-friendly Good Will Social Club, which hosted multiple shows per month pre-pandemic and the restaurant The Tallest Poppy, which has a drag brunch.

According to Buffy Lo, Feather Talia, and Prairie Sky, Winnipeg’s drag scene is characterized by a pretence-free atmosphere where performers of all types share the same spaces (and usually have a drink together when the show’s done). “We make sure the show goes as smoothly as possible,” Buffy Lo says. “After that we let loose and relax and have fun without having to worry about what people think.”

Whitehorse

 

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There may not be a gay bar in Whitehorse, but queer folks in the northern Canadian city have have managed to find spaces to host regular drag and burlesque shows, helping to foster queer community up north. There’s also organizations like the Queer Yukon Society and Yukon Rendezvous that support local drag performers and pay performance fees that often exceed standards in larger cities. Some local organizations even tap government funding to help performers buy drag essentials like shoes and breast plates.

Local drag king Mixence Gold, originally from Montreal, says he’s found Whitehorse’s scene welcoming to kings, particularly compared to Montreal, where queens tend to reign supreme. The performer adds there’s ongoing efforts to decolonize drag and uplift BIPOC artists in Whitehorse. “There’s more diversity here than what I found in Montreal,” he says.

Jolene Queen Sloan also found Whitehorse welcoming after moving to the city following stints in Toronto and Vancouver. Jolene, who came to Canada five years ago from India, sought out a local hair salon owner who taught her the ropes of hair and makeup and introduced her to Mary Sloan, a retired drama teacher who helped her hone her performance skills. Jolene followed the drag tradition of taking on Sloan’s last name for her moniker, explaining she considers the straight woman her drag mother. Jolene now performs regularly in Whitehorse and has racked up nearly 20,000 TikTok followers, many of whom are Canadians of Indian descent who love her drag-infused dances, which draw from her Punjabi culture.

There’s no separation between the drag and burlesque scenes in Whitehorse, according to the drag king Cereal, who co-produces shows that mix the two with local burlesque star Chérie Coquette. The two have produced shows all over the city, from event centres to bars and even house parties. Cereal adds the local scene has been bolstered through collaborations with theatre groups like Gwaandak Theatre, which recently created a mentorship program for Indigiqueer and POC artists and hosted a drag-infused cabaret as part of its Awaken Festival.

Calgary

 

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Calgary is home to the Fake Mustache Drag King Troupe, which claims the title of Canada’s longest-running drag troupe. While it’s got “king” in its name, the troupe’s shows feature a mix of performers, including ones with non-binary personas like drag monarchs.

The Fake Mustache Drag King Troupe is part of what brought drag artist, producer, comedian and DJ DeVery Bess to Calgary from Montreal. Since then DeVery Bess has become one of the city’s most popular performers — he even won a competition that earned him a weekly hosting gig at a bar that had never had a drag king, rather than a queen, as a regular host. For a city that leans conservative, DeVery Bess says it was a big deal for a Black drag king to land that kind of gig.

He also created stage time for other BIPOC performers via his variety show Reverse Racism — the title of which is a playful response to a comment a former romantic partner made about how it would be reverse racism to have a lineup of all non-white performers. DeVery Bess says The Fake Mustache Drag King Troupe was essential in making Calgary a city where he and other drag kings can prosper.

 

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For example, in 2018 Duke Carson was the first king to win the prestigious title of Alberta’s Next Drag Superstar, an honour that’s handed out as part of an annual drag competition. Duke Carson is a member of the Haus of Trash, a “drag incubator” that grew out of a RuPaul’s Drag Race viewing party at Dicken’s Pub. Haus of Trash members Vanta Blaque and Karla Marx say the queer-friendly space was essential to diversifying drag in Calgary.

Since the start of the pandemic, the Haus of Trash has produced a string of innovative digital drag shows, like one that tasked performers with creating tongue-in-cheek spoofs of infomercials and its most recent effort, ThemTV Cribs, which took viewers on tours through the homes of drag performers. In tapping an inclusive mix of performers from across the country for its digital shows, Karla says she’s reaffirmed her belief Calgary’s drag performers are as good as — or better than — ones from larger cities.

“Calgary has been looked down upon by other drag scenes for a long time,” she says. “I’m fucking sick of it and it stops this year. I think Calgary has one of the best, bar none, drag scenes in the entire country.”

Quebec City

Le Drague Cabaret Club in Quebec City may have the best stage dedicated to drag in the entire country. The space has full theatre-style lighting and enough stage space that its annual Christmas show features a specially built two-storey set. The bar even employs an artistic director, dressers to help performers change between numbers, a tech and prop assistant, and someone to run the spotlight.

Scarlett Paris Schatzi, who describes herself as “Canada’s Plus Size Barbie Doll,” is Le Drague’s current house queen, meaning she’s a frequent presence at the venue, the focus of its marketing materials, and has her own dressing room large enough to store her drag. Scarlett explains that Le Drague produces big, theatrical productions about four times a month. The shows draw inspiration from everything from disco to Mean Girls to cosplay.

Le Drague is where Canada’s Drag Race star Kiara got her start; her castmate, Rita Baga, also had a monthly show there prior to her TV debut. Most of the numbers in Le Drague’s shows are English language, but hosts speak in French unless they’re doing crowd work with Anglophone tourists, who flocked to the space pre-COVID.

The venue is also home to Will Charmer, a drag king who moved to Quebec City after starting drag at Cabaret Mado in Montreal. While Will Charmer is one of the only drag kings performing on a regular basis in the city, he says the queens at Le Drague have welcomed him into the family.

Le Drague dominates the scene, but it’s not the only drag space in town. Across the park the venue sits upon is Bar St-Matthew’s, a much smaller gay bar with Friday night drag shows where Will Charmer says you’re more likely to see a queen perform a classic Quebecois song than one of the pop culture-driven numbers over at Le Drague.

Halifax

 

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As the biggest city on the east coast, Halifax is the region’s natural drag hub. Even so, the city is sometimes overlooked by artists in other parts of the country. One of Halifax’s best-known performers, Elle Noir, says people often act like drag “stops in Montreal.”

“We’re not in the ice age over here,” she says. “We have cell phones and plumbing and, yes, we have drag queens.”

The drag scene in Halifax dates back to at least the 1980s, when the main spot for drag was a bar called Rumours where you had to get buzzed in the front door. It was the age in which Pride marchers wore bags over their heads for fear of their safety and the bar employed security guards not to keep minors out, but to keep the queer folks inside safe.

In recent years, Halifax has become a hotbed for drag kings and non-binary performers. Local king Craven Blood says the king and non-binary scene is a liberating space of creative freedom, citing performers like X who break down the gender binary with their drag. “You don’t have to do dips, you don’t have to wear nails, you don’t have to wear wigs, you don’t have to wear pads if you don’t want to,” Craven Blood says.

The heart of the drag community was once Menz and Mollys, which closed in 2020 and sold earlier this year. The loss of the space was a hit for the community, but there are still other venues that host drag shows, like the restaurant M+J’s  and the Grafton Street Theatre. And Craven Blood says no matter what happens, local drag performers will find their stage.

“It doesn’t matter, we’ll find a place to do it. We’ll do it in the street, it doesn’t matter.”

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How Artist, Editor and Curatorial Coordinator Jordan King Is Observing Pride Month https://fashionmagazine.com/flare/celebrity/jordan-king-pride/ Mon, 14 Jun 2021 18:49:55 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422225 As a multi-disciplinary artist, makeup artist, and the curatorial coordinator, communications manager and editor at Montreal’s Never Apart cultural centre, Jordan King has a professional obligation to be in the know. But her innate curiosity and personal quest to pursue what lies beyond the mainstream is what makes King so good at these many jobs. […]

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As a multi-disciplinary artist, makeup artist, and the curatorial coordinator, communications manager and editor at Montreal’s Never Apart cultural centre, Jordan King has a professional obligation to be in the know. But her innate curiosity and personal quest to pursue what lies beyond the mainstream is what makes King so good at these many jobs.

“I find that because there’s so much uniformity in the culture that we’re exposed to between Netflix and Instagram [for example], it feels like everyone’s watching the same stuff and having the same conversations,” she notes. “I’m trying to seek out what’s less typical.”

In addition to the intriguing subjects showcased in Never Apart’s magazine and podcast — for which King’s spoken with the likes of model and makeup artist Corey Grant Tippin about his days in Warhol’s Factory and at Studio 54 — this notion extends to other programming the non-profit organization has planned this month. It’s not Pride-specific, King says, but is still a way of celebrating. On June 17, she’ll be talking with Raja Feather Kelly — the New York-based choreographer, writer and dance company director — about his latest production, “Hysteria.”

 

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“Hysteria is a hybrid installation and online performance,” King says, noting that it was “created in response to the pandemic, but is also location-specific.” The traveling, hyper-pink world constructed for the show continues Kelly’s legacy of creating works that speak to issues around race and sexuality.

“Raja is a Black queer man in America with a lot to say,” King adds. In addition to their one-on-one dialogue, a Q&A portion will be opened up for those wanting to learn more about “Hysteria” and Kelly’s other career highlights including the founding of the multi-hyphenate company, The Feath3r Theory.

Right after this Zoom event takes place, King says she’ll (virtually) bop over to the hour-long “television special” created in support of musician and ballroom house mother Elle Barbara’s upcoming album launch. “She’s a rising star,” King enthuses.

This year’s primarily-virtual Pride festivities means that King has the ability to take in more of the action than she normally could. She plans on tuning into the 2-Spirit Cabaret hosted by Toronto’s Buddies in Bad Times Theatre on June 24, as well as the Burlesque Hour on June 18 that’s part of the official Pride Toronto programming.

“As a former burlesque performer, I’m so wowed by all the creativity that’s shining from within that community,” King says. “I think [people] have gotten quite crafty in terms of how they’re performing, and sharing their performances online. It’s just eye candy — visual joy.”

King acknowledges that Pride isn’t just about happy-making moments, though. And she highlights the difficultly she’s had in feeling “disconnected” from many meaningful events happening in New York City, where she was living until moving back to Canada last year.

“It’s been tricky during the pandemic to feel connected to causes,” she notes, pointing to the work of Reclaim Pride and its effort to “reclaim [the idea] that Pride should be less about corporate involvement and more about what it was originally started as, which was a rally or what some would call a protest.” King adds that the undertaking is especially “focused around the people who are the most marginalized: people of colour and trans people.”

King says it’s also been frustrating not being able to physically support other key Pride efforts, such as the Brooklyn Liberation March that took place on June 13 and had the specific mandate of an urgent call to action to protect transgender youth in light of the unprecedented amount of anti-trans legislation passed in the U.S. so far this year.

“It’s hard to watch [it] unfolding without being there in solidarity,” she says. “But I’m still in such support of it.” And really, as the meaning and manifestation of Pride month continues to evolve, there’s nothing more crucial than living and supporting the values of its roots every day, everywhere, in any way possible.

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Emilio Pucci Partners With Supreme on a Menswear Capsule + More Fashion News To Know https://fashionmagazine.com/style/emilio-pucci-supreme/ Sat, 12 Jun 2021 13:05:04 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422141 Emilio Pucci x Supreme did a menswear drop Streetwear aficionados with a love of colour and print should be doing a happy dance right now with the release of the collab between Supreme and Emilio Pucci. The assortment includes a water-resistant nylon jacket and pants, a silk smoking jacket, shirts, hoodies and accessories including sunglasses; […]

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Emilio Pucci x Supreme did a menswear drop
emilio pucci supreme
Photography by David Sims

Streetwear aficionados with a love of colour and print should be doing a happy dance right now with the release of the collab between Supreme and Emilio Pucci. The assortment includes a water-resistant nylon jacket and pants, a silk smoking jacket, shirts, hoodies and accessories including sunglasses; some looks are already sold out, naturally. Each boast an archival Pucci print: Tulipani, first seen in 1965, and Fantasia from 1970. And much like the Italian house’s vintage items, all are sure to become instant collector’s pieces.

M.I.A.’s eyewear collaboration with Parley for the Oceans is here

M.I.A. parley
Photography by Inez & Vinoodh

Heralded as “the first luxury collection to use 100 percent of net proceeds to protect islands and oceans,” the design union between musician and activist Maya Arulpragasam — a.k.a. M.I.A. — and ocean protection network Parley is now available. Part of Parley’s Clean Waves brand, which sees the artistic community contribute sustainably-minded designs, this new capsule is composed of innovative modular sunglasses fashioned from materials made of marine plastic debris and fishing nets.

“Nature is everything,” Arulpragasam said in a press release about the novel collection. “It’s your physical body, your mental state; it’s our oceans, land, air — everything is connected. If you have a good understanding of all these things, then we are in balance. And I think issues like overpopulation, overfishing, sea piracy, poverty, plastic pollution are all symptoms of a system that is broken.”

Love Netflix’s Halston? There’s a collection for that

halston netflix capsule
Photography courtesy of Netflix

Your summer wardrobe options just got dreamier with the arrival of a 10-piece limited edition capsule of looks inspired by the Netflix show, Halston, and the designer’s understated, elegant work. The pieces can be spied throughout the streamed series, from a golden pleated kaftan glimpsed at the groundbreaking fashion show done by American and French designers to an array of outfits worn by Halston muses Elsa Peretti and Liza Minnelli. Pre-orders are now open with product arrival due in August; primo kaftan season, if you ask us.

Cannabis brand Latitude by 48North teamed up with intimates designer Mary Young on a gender fluid line

mary young latitude
Photography courtesy of Latitude by 48North

With a Pride-timed launch, MY Latitude — a new assemblage of intimates designed by Toronto-based creative Mary Young in collaboration with the cannabis brand Latitude by 48North — aims to invoke body positivity with a gender fluid twist. Featuring a robe, boxers, a bodysuit, bra and panties that have a custom leaf print, the line was crafted to “to honour individuality, bust stigma and inspire self-growth”. The notion ties in well with the Self-Love Club initiative founded by Young, which offers interviews, visual art and other forms of content and interaction geared towards getting you feeling inspired.

Heels today, flats tomorrow — you can have it all with the new pieces from Jimmy Choo x Billy Porter

billy porter jimmy choo
Photography courtesy of Jimmy Choo

Stacked and slim-heeled boots, stiletto pumps and tasseled loafers are on the menu for the new Jimmy Choo x Billy Porter union (which is available for pre-order now). The award-winning actor, singer and activist lent his unique and glamorous eye for a makeover of some of the shoe brand’s most recognizable styles, updating them with bold hues and zebra print details. Extended sizing for the pieces is available, and points to Porter’s desire to amplify accessibility whenever possible. “The collection is dedicated to my mother,” Porter says in a quote on Jimmy Choo’s website. “[Her] biggest dream as a disabled woman was to be able to walk in a pair of high heeled shoes. She never got to achieve that dream, but I get to stand in proxy for her for all the world to see.”

Looking for more fashion news?

Dr. Jill Biden has a message — and she’s using her clothes to tell us

Burberry has announced its plans to become climate positive by 2040

Here’s what we know about the Yeezy Gap drop this week

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Getting Her Kicks: Artist Briony Douglas on Her Sneaker Collection https://fashionmagazine.com/style/briony-douglas-sneaker-collection/ Fri, 11 Jun 2021 16:48:36 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421761 In recent years, visual artist Briony Douglas has not only gained a great amount of attention for her quirky and thought-provoking works but also grown her reputation as a serious sneaker collector. It’s an interest that started in her youth but truly jumped off through her involvement in a 2018 photo shoot that heralded a […]

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In recent years, visual artist Briony Douglas has not only gained a great amount of attention for her quirky and thought-provoking works but also grown her reputation as a serious sneaker collector. It’s an interest that started in her youth but truly jumped off through her involvement in a 2018 photo shoot that heralded a collaboration between Nike’s Jordan Brand and Vogue.

Since then, she has gone on to collect everything from Rick Owens’s infamous “Dunks” — so called due to their resemblance to a patented style by Nike (for which Owens received a cease-and-desist order, thereby making them a highly desired item for a sneakerhead) — to L.A.-based creative Melody Ehsani’s Wmns Air Jordan 1 Mid “Fearless” style.

briony douglas sneaker collection
“I spend a lot of time researching,” says Douglas. “And I get a lot of information from friends. There’s always somebody who knows when a drop is happening.” PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR.
briony douglas sneaker collection
Douglas says she does most of her sneaker shopping online due to demand, highlighting Toronto’s Makeway as one of her favourite spots because of its female-centric ethos. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR.
off-white sneakers
“I’ve always been artistic,” says Douglas. “My love of fashion came later, as I grew to appreciate it, and I respect it because I view it as art, too.” No wonder she’s captivated by these zesty-yellow trainers from creative phenom Virgil Abloh’s 2019 collaboration with Nike. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR.

“The latter are one of my favourite pairs of shoes,” shares Douglas over Zoom. She came upon them in a way that was very different from her usual online hunts via auction sites like eBay and retailer raffles; she was forced to do so because of the prevalence of bots that snap up much-anticipated sneakers upon their release. Douglas says with a laugh that while she was on-set for a shoot, she would sneak around corners trying to buy a pair online, but within minutes they were gone. After learning of the bots’ cull, Ehsani made a move to correct this unfair advantage.

“She went on her IG Live a few hours later and said: ‘I know what happened. If you want them, DM me right now,’” recalls Douglas. “If you were lucky enough to have her open your DM, you’d get them. And my message was opened.”

briony douglas sneaker collection
“As I’ve moved more deeply into the street-culture world, I’ve seen a huge shift in my work,” says Douglas about how sneakers have become a muse. “I do what I love; you’ll see this come through in my work.” PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR.
briony douglas stan smith
One of Douglas’s most recent artistic projects was a Stan Smith sculpture made from almost 10,000 donated bottle caps. “It speaks to the sustainability initiatives Adidas is adopting for its production,” she says. Photography courtesy of Briony Douglas.
fear of god nike
Jerry Lorenzo’s collaborative shoe with Nike is one pair that Douglas doesn’t wear. “They’re the most iconic sneakers in my collection because this is the only time Nike ever allowed a designer to redesign a performance shoe,” she says. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR.

Douglas shares that bots are a huge bane for collectors, especially given how much of a digitized undertaking snagging sneakers has become. “You almost always have to buy them on resale now, which is crazy expensive,” she notes. Given their precious nature, Douglas treats her assemblage tenderly, storing them in compartmentalized shelving units and even keeping some pairs purely for visual pleasure.

“I’m very careful,” she adds. “I check the weather before I go out. If I’m going to an event that’s going to be crowded, I won’t wear a yellow pair because they’re going to get stepped on.” The hands-on nature of her work means that for certain scenarios, she’ll wear many different pairs of sneakers. For example, she travelled with 10 pairs for a five-day trip to record behind-the-scenes content of the construction of a five-metre whale sculpture (made out of recycled materials) in Vancouver. She wore prized pairs for recording and then switched them out to continue working on the installation.

briony douglas sneaker collection
“It’s been interesting to see luxury auction houses selling sneakers,” notes Douglas. Here, she’s wearing 2021 Foam Runner shoes from Yeezy; the first prototype style made by the brand recently sold at a Sotheby’s auction for $1.8 million. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR.
briony douglas sneaker collection
Douglas owns several pairs of sneakers in
shades of pink. “I keep my collection in mind when buying clothes,” she says of how she marries her passion with
her outfits. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR.
briony douglas sneaker collection
Douglas points to Instagram accounts @if_i_cant_wear_snkrs and @simplykiah as resources for learning about sneaker history and drops. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR.

These preservation measures raise the question: What will Douglas eventually do with her sneakers? “I’m very lucky to be at a point in my career where I can just collect,” she says. “I’ll sell something if there’s a big grail I want. [For the uninitiated, that means an extremely rare pair.] My boyfriend is constantly swapping — that’s part of the game for him. I get that, but I really love all of my shoes.”

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIELLE LEVASSEUR. HAIR AND MAKEUP, VANESSA BAUDNER.

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All the Important Things Dr. Jill Biden Is Telling Us With Her Clothing https://fashionmagazine.com/style/jill-biden-clothing/ Fri, 11 Jun 2021 15:42:58 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422160 Dr. Jill Biden is many things — an educator, author and First Lady of the United States. But we didn’t know she was also a supreme trolling expert. While stepping out during a G7 appearance in Cornwall, U.K. on June 10, Dr. Biden took the opportunity to send a message to the world and perhaps […]

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Dr. Jill Biden is many things — an educator, author and First Lady of the United States. But we didn’t know she was also a supreme trolling expert. While stepping out during a G7 appearance in Cornwall, U.K. on June 10, Dr. Biden took the opportunity to send a message to the world and perhaps more specifically, former First Lady Melania Trump.

Her choice to wear a black and white polka-dot dress by American designer Brandon Maxwell was of note given Trump’s preference for sporting luxury European brands instead of those based in the US of A. But it was Dr. Biden’s jacket by French brand Zadig & Voltaire that caught everyone’s attention thanks to its more overt messaging about something universal and much needed at this point: Love.

jill biden clothing
Photography by Getty Images

The studded wording embellishment was reportedly Dr. Biden’s idea, so let’s also give her props for reworking a beloved closet item, hello! And it’s clear why she opted to update the piece. The world has been plunged into chaos and despair in so many ways, and the sartorial signal acknowledges what the current U.S. administration considers necessary to face ongoing daily challenges.

Her style move was also a straight-up nod to Trump’s discomforting 2018 outing in a Zara jacket emblazoned with the words “I really don’t care do u?” It felt like a monumental troll at the time, but Trump has been, well, trumped in that regard.

While we might not see another masterful wardrobe wink like this again, what we can be sure of is that Dr. Biden will continue to be an ambassador for U.S.-based brands. From the custom Markarian ensemble she donned for the presidential inauguration in January to other appearances in looks by Gabriela Hearst and Jonathan Cohen, she’s aware of the power of her platform and what it can do for the #shoplocal movement.

Dr. Biden’s championing of the re-wear is also important; for an appearance with Kate Middleton during the same G7 trip, she wore a hot pink jacket over a white dress — a combo she was seen in this past April. We’re sure she and Kate got along swimmingly given the duchess’s penchant for pulling out formerly-worn items herself.

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Burberry Aims To Be Climate Positive By 2040 https://fashionmagazine.com/style/burberry-climate-positive/ Thu, 10 Jun 2021 15:51:08 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=422057 In an effort to address the massive negative environmental impact of the fashion industry, British luxury heritage label Burberry has revealed its plan to become climate positive by the year 2040. In addition to its pledge to “cut emissions across [its] extended supply chain by 46% by 2030,” as outlined in a press release, the […]

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In an effort to address the massive negative environmental impact of the fashion industry, British luxury heritage label Burberry has revealed its plan to become climate positive by the year 2040. In addition to its pledge to “cut emissions across [its] extended supply chain by 46% by 2030,” as outlined in a press release, the brand announced its “support for the Fashion Avengers, a coalition of global fashion organizations that have come together to inspire action towards achieving the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)” as well as for other advocates working in the environmentalism space. A component of Burberry’s alignment with the Fashion Avengers includes its involvement in Forest for Change, an Es Devlin-designed installation spearheaded by the UN Global Goals project that’s part of the 2021 London Biennale festival.

 

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The pledge goes further by stating that Burberry will invest in initiatives that “protect and [restore] natural ecosystems that remove carbon from the atmosphere,” as well as “climate resilience projects that empower vulnerable, frontline communities to adapt to changing realities and protect livelihoods.” This is particularly noteworthy in the conversation about climate change and fashion, as garment worker welfare and sustainability are inextricably linked.

Today’s news comes after the introduction of the Burberry Regeneration Project last year, the launch of which saw the brand partner with PUR Projet — a service focused on assisting companies to “regenerate the ecosystems they depend on,” as per its website. Efforts will be directed on implementing a “regenerative agricultural programme with [Burberry’s] wool producers in Australia.”

There’s been mounting pressure for brands both luxury and mass to swiftly address their part in climate change and adopt improved manufacturing measures as soon as possible. For example, Chanel recently presented a Cruise collection that included the use of “eco-friendly” fabrics. And with a growing swell of consumers wanting to shop from sustainably-minded brands, we’ll likely see more moves like this in coming months.

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Fashion Academic and Activist Ben Barry on Why Pride Is More Important Than Ever https://fashionmagazine.com/flare/celebrity/ben-barry-pride/ Wed, 09 Jun 2021 20:57:38 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421997 Since the idea of Pride began as a protest, it felt natural to speak to Ben Barry — the outgoing chair at Ryerson University’s School of Fashion and the incoming dean of fashion at the Parsons School of Design — about what the occasion means to him. Barry has built a reputation as an advocate […]

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Since the idea of Pride began as a protest, it felt natural to speak to Ben Barry — the outgoing chair at Ryerson University’s School of Fashion and the incoming dean of fashion at the Parsons School of Design — about what the occasion means to him.

Barry has built a reputation as an advocate for “justice and liberation in fashion.” Included in this mandate has been an effort to decolonize the industry and emphasize more sustainability and accessibility-focused approaches to how it operates. The fruits of his labour will be evident at the Mass Exodus presentation on June 10 — a virtual iteration of the School of Fashion’s graduate runway show that will be hosted by Canada’s Drag Race winner, Priyanka.

Priyanka’s presence, as well as previous hosting duties being bestowed upon multi-hyphenate and former FASHION cover star Vivek Shraya, points to Barry’s unique ability to address many ideas at once around design, inclusivity, identity, activism and the future of community building. It’s something he thinks about often in his own daily life as well.

“I’m constantly reminded that even though there are laws in place to ensure equality, [this] doesn’t necessarily translate to attitudes and cultural norms in the world,” he says when asked about what Pride means to him. “I think of myself — a white male with the most privilege in the LGBTQ+ community, and still a month ago while walking down the street with my husband and our dog, we were yelled at with homophobic slurs. Then the two guys in the truck got out and confronted us. The fact that in 2021 this still happens shows that we still have work to do to shift attitudes and culture.”

There’s a distinct intersection between Barry’s professional and personal life in this way, in terms of what needs to be done to establish equity in the fashion space — and the world-at-large. “There need to be conversations about the different forms of inequity that exist in the queer community based on race, class, disability, body size and so many other social identities,” he notes. “People have very different experiences of privilege and marginalization. Holding space for that, to learn and have discussions so queer people can be advocates and allies for each other ­— particularly those who have more privilege — is really critical. Pride is an opportunity to have those conversations and have that education in addition to celebration.”

Barry points to the existence of “standards of what a queer person looks like — a clear hierarchy that reinforces dominant norms about white masculine power” as something that requires a huge transformation. And what’s more, that Pride — which has become a heavily commodified concept in the past decade — is an opportunity to reflect on the notion that it should be a “space for community to gather and share experiences in the world, and learn from the different experiences that we have because obviously the queer community is so diverse. Pride is in many ways connected to so many different intersectional struggles around oppression.”

 

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As a disability-identified individual and researcher for the platform Cripping Masculinity, Barry dives into the concept of oppression and accessibility in its many forms. While the virtualization of Pride events has potentially meant more folks in the community could partake in programming that was historically not accessible for them, he says that there’s a ways to go in terms of crafting a substantial Pride experience for all interested.

“Access isn’t a checklist — it looks different to different people,” he highlights, adding that it’s really about “who’s making the decisions about these events,” and affording individuals the tools to give insight into what true participation means for them, from implementing “ASL and closed captioning to visual descriptions” of what’s happening on screen.

Barry flags the  Queer Women of Colour Festival in San Francisco — which runs June 11 to 13 — as an example of a platform working to create an uplifting and accessible event for as many people possible. “All their films are subtitled, and they have ASL interpretations and open captions,” he says. “That’s one of the things I’m really excited about [this Pride].”

 

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Excitement aside, Barry is also hopeful that given the growing commercial interest in Pride month, dialogue about corporate commitment beyond the 30 days of June will become more of an immediate and ongoing action.

“We’ve moved beyond a point of corporations donating money and coming out with a new Pride shoe or collection as an acceptable way to engage,” he says. “I think that queer communities are looking for that deeper systemic change, especially in the fashion and beauty industries that have been so inspired by and have appropriated queer culture for years. What’s the deeper commitment? What pathways are you opening up in your organization to bring in and support queer people? Are you creating opportunities to engage them in sustainable and meaningful and paid ways throughout the year? From a corporate perspective, that’s the next step and what the queer community is starting to demand.”

Additionally, demystifying the idea that Pride is simply about parades, parties and other cultural programming will lend promise to communal hope and healing based on honouring individual needs. “Pride doesn’t need to look one way for everyone,” he says. “You can go on a hike or be at a lake and celebrate Pride as much as when you’re at a parade or drag brunch. It’s about doing what feels right for you. That’s an important conversation to have and support to offer, about centering the different ways to do Pride.”

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How Comedian and Writer Arianne Tong Is Celebrating Pride 2021 https://fashionmagazine.com/flare/celebrity/arianne-tong-pride-2021/ Tue, 08 Jun 2021 18:57:14 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421823 Like many folks in the LGBTQ2S+ community, Toronto-based comedian and writer Arianne Tong has seen Pride as an opportunity to let loose and celebrate. “Historically, the whole month of Pride has been great, but the one weekend specifically with the parade in Toronto, has been the ultimate release,” she says. “To not experience that over […]

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Like many folks in the LGBTQ2S+ community, Toronto-based comedian and writer Arianne Tong has seen Pride as an opportunity to let loose and celebrate. “Historically, the whole month of Pride has been great, but the one weekend specifically with the parade in Toronto, has been the ultimate release,” she says. “To not experience that over the last two years is pretty disappointing. There’s nothing like Pride weekend — it’s Christmas for gay people. I really miss it.”

At least Tong and others have fortunately been able to find connection online through a plethora of virtual events in the absence of large, in-person gatherings. And many of these outlets, including Tong’s weekly pop culture trivia event called Question Everything, will have an additional donation angle in the coming weeks.

The June 23 QE game, for instance, will be a “Super Queer” version of the night, and proceeds from player registration will benefit Across Boundaries. “I’m focusing on how to help [communities] in some way,” Tong notes of the give-back initiative; Across Boundaries is centred around providing access to mental health and addiction services to “marginalized and racialized communities locally and across Canada.”

Tong also taps Phil Villeneuve from queer culture collective Yohomo — which will host a virtual dance party June 26 — and his musical bingo ‘do on June 18 as another must-attend fête this Pride month. Five dollars from every ticket sold will go to Friends Of Ruby, a Toronto-based resource for LGBTQ2S+ youth that offers support from transitional housing to creative programming and mental health/wellness services.

 

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A post shared by QE Trivia 🌈 (@qetrivia)

While Tong rides out the IRL vacancy of some of her favourite festivities like the hip hop-centric party Yes Yes Y’all and Cherry Bomb, the “fun flirty dance party for queer women and friends” (as per the tagline on its website), she’s found a way to spice up her virtual trivia nights from the comfort of home.

“I’ve mandated costumes and themes. I didn’t really get into costumes before COVID-19 [but] it’s a good opportunity to jazz up being indoors,” she says, adding that recent QE events have included a “Disney villains” vibe that saw Tong dress like Ursula from The Little Mermaid.

Whimsical get-ups aside, Tong also keeps a sense of great expectations despite limitations when it comes to this month’s Pride activities. “I’m way more pumped for this year than last year,” she says. “There was a thick cloud of depression and not knowing what was going on or for how long. [But] we’re starting to be vaccinated, and people are more optimistic and looking forward to this maybe being the last year where this is the situation.”

As restrictions begin to ease across Ontario and the rest of Canada, it’s indeed cause for even more revelry — safely, and mostly more subdued, of course. “I might go to a park and put down a blanket and have a picnic with my girlfriend and celebrate being together,” Tong says, noting that you don’t need to go big to be proud. “We need to continue the spirit of Pride, which is to celebrate being out and open in public.”

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Our 17 Favourite Looks From the 2021 BAFTA Television Awards https://fashionmagazine.com/style/celebrity-style/17-favourite-looks-2021-bafta-television-awards/ Mon, 07 Jun 2021 17:41:12 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421862 Did you get the memo that capital-G red carpet Glamour is back? In the case of the 2021 BAFTA Television awards, quite literally, too. Michaela Coel’s exquisite gown by London-based creative Maximilian Davis boasted bright red bell sleeves and eye-catching cut-outs on both sides of its silhouette. Coming or going, it was a breathtaking look, […]

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Did you get the memo that capital-G red carpet Glamour is back? In the case of the 2021 BAFTA Television awards, quite literally, too. Michaela Coel’s exquisite gown by London-based creative Maximilian Davis boasted bright red bell sleeves and eye-catching cut-outs on both sides of its silhouette. Coming or going, it was a breathtaking look, especially since Coel paired the piece with bold gold jewellery by Alighieri — another London label, helmed by Rosh Mahtani, who last year was the first jewellery designer to be given the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. And to keep the local love going, Coel — whose revolutionary show I May Destroy You won multiple awards including Leading Actress and Writer: Drama for Coel herself — brought along a glossy black version of Simone Rocha’s coveted Egg bag.

But that wasn’t the only glimpse of Rocha’s elegant designs on the recent BAFTA TV red carpet. Bridgerton’s Golda Rosheuvel donned a sheer tulle frock, festooned with red floral embellishments, by the designer. It was worn over a tailored white shirt, as per the designer’s inimitable styling predilections. Rosheuvel’s co-star, Nicola Coughlan, also made a statement in a tangerine-coloured dress by Valentino and blue eyeshadow. I May Destroy You’s Paapa Essiedu wore an orange Valentino number, too, and it was enough to get anyone juiced up for dressing again.

In further rainbow connections, television presenter AJ Odudu was a feathery fantasy in a red floor-length confection by Vietnamese label Tranhung. And Zawe Ashton of The Handmaid’s Tale was a psychedelic sight to behold in a voluminous dress by Australian brand Zimmermann.

This was only one of the many unexpected moments throughout the sartorial feast which included a roster of independent creatives like Canadian-British designer Edeline Lee’s bespoke frilled dress for Gbemisola Ikumelo and Bimini Bon Boulash sporting Central Saint Martins student Ása Bríet Brattaberg’s work. The range of design talent was a welcome sight compared to awards shows past and their usual mix of established luxury labels.

Scroll through our gallery to see more wardrobe magic from the night.

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Nouveau Riche Vintage Owner Andrea Lalonde on Her Dream Pride Shoot https://fashionmagazine.com/style/nouveau-riche-vintage-andrea-lalonde-pride/ Thu, 03 Jun 2021 20:49:36 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421664 “The transformative power of gay glamour.” It’s a notion Toronto-based vintage purveyor Andrea Lalonde has been ruminating on more and more these days — and not only because of the recent surge in documentaries about the heydays of disco and Studio 54 giving more of us insight into the lives of queer creatives. Lalonde, who […]

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“The transformative power of gay glamour.” It’s a notion Toronto-based vintage purveyor Andrea Lalonde has been ruminating on more and more these days — and not only because of the recent surge in documentaries about the heydays of disco and Studio 54 giving more of us insight into the lives of queer creatives.

Lalonde, who owns Nouveau Riche Vintage, also notes that on the occasion of Pride it’s crucial to reflect on the pioneers of the movement, such as Marsha P. Johnson and Sylvia Rivera, and how they would “pull a look and march in protest.” She adds that this idea has regrettably been largely lost because of the lack of in-person events the last year and a half. For her part, Lalonde is reinvigorating it with the release of a new series of images of Nouveau Riche’s wares, donned by model Meg Cule and her partner, Alexa Precious.

Laid-back linens, light knits, tailored trench coats as well as ’90s-ish denim and leather are featured in the photos, which were styled by Nadia Pizzimenti and captured by Claudine Baltazar — with Allana Fennell as makeup artist and Antonia Stanley doing hair. An easy elegance and intimacy permeate each shot and they’re a stark contrast to the visuals we’ve become accustomed to seeing around Pride month. And that’s intentional, Lalonde notes, in terms of recalibrating the notion of what queerness looks like; if rainbows are your thing, however, she’s got plenty of multi-hued attire in stock as well.

andrea lalonde pride
Photography by Claudine Baltazar

Lalonde has put a much greater focus on creating these look books throughout the pandemic, both to sell her products and to reconnect her with the kind of curation and story-telling that were present when she worked in the art and film spaces. “I’m in fashion accidentally,” she laughs, highlighting that while working for Toronto’s Inside Out Film Festival, which currently runs until June 6, she became increasingly interested in queerness in cultural spaces.

Yet her present position as proprietor of one of the city’s most popular vintage venues, which also has a rental and archival component, is a role she’s embraced heartily. And she seeks to use it as a platform when it comes to informing a vintage-loving audience about the diversity of queer makers throughout history. Disco, for example, wasn’t “just glitter — it’s loaded with magical queer history,” she says, adding,  “I have less shame around the fact that I think fashion is important, especially for queer people. It’s a way to form identity. [I’ve] always ensured my store was a safe space for people, no matter who you are, to play dress up.”

She’s also quick to note that there’s much “work to be done around making the fashion world a safe and less exploitative place” and realigning the notion that “queer is cool” to extend beyond the visuals and appropriation of culture to “making sure that queer people are involved in decision-making, too.”

andrea lalonde pride
Photography by Claudine Baltazar

This is something that’s become an extra potent point given the rising commercialization of Pride festivities, and how many see it as a collection of hollow gestures by corporations who are only interested in engaging with the community around the month of June, and, only in terms of selling them products or giving visible sponsorships. As the world at large has also begun to refocus where they spend their dollars throughout the pandemic, Lalonde says that to celebrate Pride this year, one should consider supporting queer-owned business — especially if they were your favourite places to visit in the “before times.”

“I want my Pride to be in a bookstore,” Lalonde laughs as she points to Glad Day Bookshop — and their Golden Girls-themed brunch Rose Beef, hosted by local artist Mikiki in particular — as a beloved boîte to spend time in. “We’re starting to recognize the vitalness of small businesses, and I’ve seen such resilience this year,” she adds. And we couldn’t think of two better words to sum up the essence of Pride, either.

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Streetwear Designer Melody Ehsani Is Changing the Game at Foot Locker https://fashionmagazine.com/style/melody-ehsani-foot-locker/ Wed, 02 Jun 2021 18:11:39 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421588 This past March, Melody Ehsani — the Los Angeles-based entrepreneur and founder of the streetwear brand ME. — was named the first creative director of women’s business at Foot Locker. The announcement not only heralded the inclusion of women’s perspectives in sport and sportswear as an increasingly powerful force; it also highlights crucial mainstream support […]

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This past March, Melody Ehsani — the Los Angeles-based entrepreneur and founder of the streetwear brand ME. — was named the first creative director of women’s business at Foot Locker. The announcement not only heralded the inclusion of women’s perspectives in sport and sportswear as an increasingly powerful force; it also highlights crucial mainstream support for Ehsani’s visionary outlook when it comes to intertwining design and activism.

Granted, this notion has become quite buzzy over the last year in particular. But when you consider that Ehsani, who launched her line in the mid-2000s, has embraced this ethos from the very start, you see a greater picture of what she’s accomplished and where she’s heading.

“I grew up always being obsessed with pop culture, and congruently also having a real passion for justice and being able to give a voice to the voiceless and disenfranchised folks,” Ehsani says. “I’m a first-generation child to immigrant parents, so I saw a lot of what they had to deal with firsthand, and that inspired me from a young age.”

Ehsani notes, though, that her entrée into a creative field wasn’t nurtured as early. “Growing up in a traditional Persian family, you kind of only see [a few] options for what you’re going to do professionally — it was like okay, I’m either going to become a doctor or a lawyer or a pharmacist,” she laughs. “[My parents] were both artists but never made any money off their art so I viewed it as something very impractical and secondary. It was always a hobby — it wasn’t really assigned value in terms of making a living.”

melody ehsani foot locker
Photography courtesy of Foot Locker

And so, Ehsani went to college and studied sociology and philosophy in her undergrad, subsequently enrolling in law school. “My uncle told me to take as many internships as I could,” she recalls. “I did a million law internships and was left completely disenchanted by the field and the process.” Ehsani decided to drop her enrolment. “I couldn’t move forward with law because I felt like I would be miserable, and waking up to something every day that I didn’t love,” she says. “Love was always really important to me.”

After booking an appointment with medical intuitive Julie Burns Walker, Ehsani’s fate essentially became sealed. “It was the first time that somebody had ever seen me for what I was as opposed to what was projected on me of what I should be,” she says of the conversation. “A lot of that was design-oriented. After receiving that mirroring, so to speak, I just followed that path and never looked back.”

Indeed, Ehsani only seems interested in moving forward, and it’s evidenced by each project she embarks on, whether it’s the podcast The Butterfly Forecast — which she launched earlier this year with Burns Walker and examines “how the smallest changes made by an individual can change the outcome for the collective” — or her new role with Foot Locker.

Her first capsule collection for the brand will launch on June 10, and is inspired by another big love in her life, basketball. It features an assortment of shapewear and athletic pieces including an organza tracksuit that was developed with Ehsani’s close friends — Toronto-raised, Bombay-based creatives Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar of the brand NorBlack NorWhite. “Sharing the platform with them was probably my favourite part of this experience,” Ehsani notes. 70 percent of the debut collection is gender-neutral in design, and sizes range from XS to 2X; Canadians can find it online and at the brand’s Toronto and Vancouver stores.

melody ehsani foot locker
Photography courtesy of Foot Locker

To introduce the line, Ehsani and Foot Locker have crafted a virtual event called The No More Next Festival which will run on Saturday, June 5. The day’s programming includes a Q&A with Ehsani, as well as an affirmation session and a roundtable she will participate in alongside streetwear designer Don C. and Renee Montgomery, owner of the basketball team the Atlanta Dream.

“She’s the first woman to own a WNBA team and the first former player to own a WNBA team,” Ehsani enthuses, adding that it was important for her to include such perspectives as Montgomery’s during the online event in an effort to engage with them outside their typical context of the sports world.

“A lot of events, especially when they’re corporate events, seem to have the same sort of talking heads talking about the same things,” Ehsani says. “I wanted [us] to talk about the world that we’re inspired by and exploring and delving into from a justice standpoint and a fashion standpoint — bringing people into a room that I don’t know if you’d necessarily see talking to one another, and whose opinions you might not know, or even people you might not know of.”

The event’s mandate is unsurprising given Ehsani’s general lens on life. “My mission has always been to elevate consciousness,” she says of her approach to running a business, as well as her personal philosophy. “It’s the pillar that’s always been at the core of my brand [and] it’s what I’m inspired by — when you phrase something differently [about] a particular experience for a group of people. What does it do to you, and how do you feel about it, and how do you get involved. For me it’s never been about a new look in fashion, it’s been about a new voice.”

melody ehsani foot locker
Photography courtesy of Foot Locker

She goes on to highlight that she thinks it’s “an exciting time because it’s a time of germination. You have people like Kanye [West] — I just went into a deep dive with what he’s doing and it’s really impressive. He’s manufacturing some of his own footwear in the U.S. which is sort of unheard of, and he’s committed to being completely sustainable in the next five years which means dealing with the issue of dyes and the toxicity of them, which is really hard. I see a lot of people that are in my age group are making these huge strides and not being scared of dreaming bigger. I also think there’s going to be a renaissance of young people doing their own thing. Little movements of people taking things into their own hands [and] getting back to innovation and moving away from the materialism and consumerism of it all.”

Ehsani notes, however, that the style world in particular is also at a juncture where “you can’t just make the jump from fashion to activism without having consciousness in the centre of it. It’s become a bit trendy, and people are now being held to account in terms of what their company stands for, where’s the money going, and who’s sitting in the board room.”

For this reason as well, Ehsani’s role at Foot Locker is a momentous one. What would she say to her younger self, all things considered? “I think I had so much doubt along the way about what I was actually capable of,” she says. “I’ve become so much more free, and I’m just finding more and more freedom in terms of being able to question things. Like, why can’t I do something? I feel you like you actually can do whatever it is that you want to do, but there are so many forces in the world that try to make us feel like we can’t, or we’re not good enough or we shouldn’t. Surround yourself with people who see you and make you feel like you can.”

Yet Ehsani recognizes that the evolution from self-doubter to boundary-breaking enlightened being is “a never-ending process.” She credits a “strong spiritual practice,” as well as a self-care routine that includes myriad vitamins and supplements to support her emotional well-being and brain chemistry, with fortifying herself along the way.

“Having a relationship to my creator, and humbling myself every day as to how small I am in the grand scheme of things and that I can only do what I feel like I’m here to do,” she says of what keeps her going. “My spiritual upkeep is really important because it reminds me of my design as a human, and what I’m designed to do here.”

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Why the Newest Collection by Sandy Gill Highlights the Climate Migrant Crisis https://fashionmagazine.com/style/sandy-gill-land-with-grace/ Mon, 31 May 2021 21:20:28 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421498 When stylist and designer Sandy Gill launched her content platform nearly a decade ago, it was with the intention of providing a resource for “people who wanted to find confidence through fashion.” Fast-forward to today, and Gill’s reach — and ethos — has expanded to embrace a broader type of support. And with the introduction […]

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When stylist and designer Sandy Gill launched her content platform nearly a decade ago, it was with the intention of providing a resource for “people who wanted to find confidence through fashion.” Fast-forward to today, and Gill’s reach — and ethos — has expanded to embrace a broader type of support. And with the introduction of her unisex athleisure label Tuff Banditz last year, Gill is able to satisfy both her love of clothing and desire to educate, empower and provide visibility for others in her community and beyond.

“I’ve learned a lot about what I want to share with the world,” she told FASHION over a video call in mid-May, shortly after Tuff Banditz’s new collection — called Land with Grace — dropped via the AI-driven design company Urbancoolab. “As someone who’s been in the fashion space for almost eight years, it took me a long time to figure out what the story is that I want to tell, and what impact I want to make in this space. It’s become a lot clearer, especially with the pandemic.”

sandy gill
Photography courtesy of Urbancoolab

Gill, who is also an elementary school teacher, says that a number of personal losses, as well as witnessing people around the world lose everything from jobs to loved ones, provoked her to explore the concept of experiencing loss for Tuff Banditz’s second offering. Urbancoolab used its AI tech to graphically translate imagery — from moving boxes and calendars to paper planes — that convey the spirit of the idea on an array of boldly-hued leisurewear pieces. You’ll also find phrases like “Land with Grace,” a statement that carried Gill through tough times and that she’s imparted to others enduring difficult moments.

She also addresses the notion of loss through the amplification of an urgent and global issue: Climate change and the climate migrant crisis. “I want to tell stories through each collection and have these collections create impact for people in communities that are hurting,” she says of why she homed in on highlighting the topic when creating the new pieces. “So many people have been displaced,” Gill says, pointing to those around the world struggling to re-home after fleeing environmental hazards from drought to floods. A report by the World Bank suggests that by 2050, “Sub-Saharan Africa, South Asia and Latin America could see more than 140 million people move within their countries’ borders.”

To enhance her commitment to this urgent matter, Gill is donating proceeds from sales of the new collection to Structure, an organization that provides displaced communities with sustainably-minded housing. And she credits friends working in the climate activism space and the folks at Structure for also enlightening her about environmental issues, personal impact, and how small steps can actually amount to big differences.

sandy gill
Photography courtesy of Urbancoolab

“[This] topic always scared me,” she says about the impact our daily lives have on the environment. “It’s looming over our heads, and could kill us. It’s the scariest thing to think about. And I avoided thinking about it for a long time because there are so many things you think you have to change if you want to make change; it can get very overwhelming.”

There’s so much to be overwhelmed by these days, and Gill says she’s mindful of taking time to process and reflect on current events of the past year in particular, and how to best serve those who need their voices heard. “As my platform grew, I’ve tried to grow with it,” she says, nodding to her activism around the groundswell of the Black Lives Matter movement and the farmer protests in India as two opportunities to shed light on crucial events and their implications the world over.

“I realized that if I don’t use my platform to share these stories, my platform is useless,” she says, adding that the farmer protests directly affected her family, and the censorship framing the events caused her to lose engagement and followers. “If we don’t speak up,” she rightly asks, “who will?”

Gill also positions her projects as a way to illuminate people closer to home who deserve attention, such as the models featured in her new collection’s imagery. “I wanted to pay homage to BIPOC and AAPI Toronto-based creatives,” she says. “Those who’ve tried to make the best out of the worst during the pandemic.” The group includes dancer O’Shani ‘Ocean’ Cardwell and comedian Norm Alconcel.

 

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And let’s not forget Tuff Banditz’s first collection, Working Class Heroes, which was inspired by Gill’s father (who also starred in its campaign). The pieces boasted renderings of Punjabi fabrics and graphics like cab signs in a tender tribute to her taxi-driving dad.

With all these uplifting ideas constantly brewing within Gill, one has to wonder how she manages it all in the face of enduring stress and struggle. “I’m still learning that I have to take care of my mental health,” she says. “Being with kids every day reminds me of it. I need to be in a head space where I can be with them, and not allow negativity to affect my students.”

She says that she’s dug deeper into “healthier self-care” methods from journaling — “That took a long time to be comfortable with but I carry a journal with me everywhere now,” she notes — to “grounding practices” such as prayer and meditation. And she’s found great appreciation for therapy sessions. “I especially tell this to people in the South Asian community who are afraid to do it — once you find someone you’re comfortable speaking with, [they offer] outside perspective and they have the knowledge and education to help you.”

Now equipped with such ways to navigate through what life reveals to her on personal, professional and communal levels, Gill speaks of the future with enthusiasm — particularly when it comes to mentioning that she’s hoping to launch a collection based around the “Sandy Suit,” a look made in collaboration with Brampton, Ont.’s Sahiba Fashions that was worn by Utkarsh Ambudkar to the 2020 Oscars, taking it from a now custom-made model to ready-to-wear. “I’m excited to keep going,” she says. But we can rest assured she won’t forget where she came from.

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The Nicole Richie Creator Collab for Etsy Has Canadian Connections + More Fashion News https://fashionmagazine.com/style/nicole-richie-etsy/ Sat, 29 May 2021 13:15:56 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421372 Happily, this week’s fashion news is bursting with #shoplocal love. House of Harlow 1960, the label founded by Nicole Richie, partnered with Etsy on a collection that features two Toronto-based brands. Plus, Fashion Art Toronto is back — as is the design collaboration between Sasha Exeter and Ela Aldorsson. Read on to find out more… […]

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Happily, this week’s fashion news is bursting with #shoplocal love. House of Harlow 1960, the label founded by Nicole Richie, partnered with Etsy on a collection that features two Toronto-based brands. Plus, Fashion Art Toronto is back — as is the design collaboration between Sasha Exeter and Ela Aldorsson. Read on to find out more…

Toronto jewellery brand Omi Woods is part of Nicole Richie’s exclusive House of Harlow 1960 Etsy Edit

nicole richie etsy
Photographed by Ren Fuller

A limited-edition collection of home décor and accessories co-created by Nicole Richie in collaboration with Etsy sellers hit the web this week; included in the mix are two Toronto-based brands – jewellery line Omi Woods, helmed by Ashley Alexis McFarlane, and Kyung-Soon Chun’s body care and décor label Sooworks. They and the other entrepreneurs involved in the edit designed the items with Richie in order to infuse them with her preferred Cali-chic sensibility.

“I’m thrilled to finally be putting the ‘House’ in ‘House of Harlow 1960′ in such a meaningful way through this dream interiors collection,” Richie said in a statement about the goods. “My home has always been an extension of my personal style and I’m so grateful for the opportunity to collaborate with such a talented, diverse group of artisans on the Etsy platform — several of whom are from my home state of California.” Indeed, west coast whimsy pervades the assortment on offer, from the breezy caftans and headscarves by DandEDiscovered to Zziee Ceramics’ artful pieces, which are hand-made in Joshua Tree.

A fundraiser for U For Change includes some big names in the local fashion and beauty landscape

 

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Toronto-based non-profit organization U for Change has introduced a new philanthropy incentive with a fashionable twist this year. Aiming to raise awareness and funds for the org — which offers a range of creative programming for underprivileged youth — the virtual event, called Fashion Runs Deep, features an inspirational panelist roster that’s part of a chat moderated by TikTok’s Victoria Di Placido. Participants include Cheekbone Beauty founder Jennifer Harper; Abiola Akinsiku of Precious Threads by Abiola; image-maker Justin Wu; and By The Namesake designer Rosa Halpern. Also speaking at the virtual event is Isabella Baboury, director of Canada for Christian Louboutin. Talk about helping the next generation put their best foot forward.

Canadian designer Andrew Coimbra is one of 10 finalists in SwatchOn’s Future of Fabric competition

andrew coimbra swatchon
Imagery courtesy of SwatchOn

Seoul-based fabric sourcing platform SwatchOn launched an initiative last year to support emerging global fashion talent called Future of Fabric. COVID-19 forced the company to change direction with the contest, of course, and it was recently announced that Montreal-based designer Andrew Coimbra ­is included in the final ten names to be awarded a cash prize and have their competing looks unveiled as part of an influencer campaign. Coimbra’s outfit — which boasts an original print splashed on several separates, topped off with an on-trend bucket hat — is seen on Anthony Deluca, a creative director and media mogul from Toronto. You can find out more about Coimbra’s design practice and process, as well as that of the other competitors, here.

Frank and Oak has introduced women’s swimwear

frank and oak swimwear
Photography courtesy of Frank and Oak

Tis the season for poolside lounging and beach trips, and Montreal’s Frank And Oak has a new range of women’s swimwear to suit such occasions. Each of the six styles — three reversible one-pieces, two reversible tops and one reversible bottom — is made from post-industrial and post-consumer waste recycled nylon. Colours vary from neutrals to bright pops, so you can make a statement or keep it subtle.

Fashion Art Toronto returns from June 2 to 17

 

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FAT has found its virtual stride and is back with more livestreamed fashion events next month. Starting Wednesday, June 2, check out the work of over 30 Canadian designers and artists who will showcase their creativity in a variety of Toronto’s most novel venues from the Scarborough Bluffs and Ontario Place to Union Station. Brands set to be featured include L’Uomo Strano, Kyle Gervacy, Yung Alexander and Shaghayegh Tafreshi, whose collection presentation will take place at Ripley’s Aquarium. Prepare to take in natural, architectural and fashionable sights via FAT’s Instagram Live or post-presentation on its YouTube channel.

The 2.0 handbag collection collaboration between Sasha Exeter and Ela Aldorsson is here

sasha exeter ela
Photography by David Pike

You asked, they answered. After witnessing the popularity of their first round of limited-run pieces last year, content creator Sasha Exeter and accessory design Ela Aldorsson have released a new batch of bags to address every need. From an outsized tote with a removable laptop sleeve to a convertible saddle style, plus the belt bag from the first line that sold out within minutes, each item is made with vegan materials and 100 percent recycled plastic bottle lining. (Bonus: the packaging is biodegradable.) And you’ve got to give the duo bonus points for tapping Kitchener, Ont.-based artist Trisha Abe to create the collection’s dust bags.

CDLP expands its Mobilité performance line to include activewear

cdlp activewear
Photography courtesy of CDLP

A year since launching its Mobilité range of underwear, which boasts “enhanced” design features for wear during sports activities, Swedish brand CDLP has added a line of elevated activewear into the fold. Comprised of a selection of shorts, sweatpants, t-shirts and hoodies made from terry or jersey (both fabrications are composed of a recycled organic cotton blend), they walk the line between lounge and luxe, with a hint of nostalgia for good measure.

Looking for more fashion news?

H&M has partnered with Brock for a collection that drops June 24

We’ve got the goods on Ariana Grande’s wedding dress

Supermodel Fernanda Ly on #StopAsianHate

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Meet the Co-founders Behind Accessory Brand ai Toronto Seoul https://fashionmagazine.com/style/ai-toronto-seoul/ Fri, 28 May 2021 20:00:38 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421411 For Hannah Kim, Joanna Lee and Rebekah Ma, staying connected during COVID-19 wasn’t just crucial for typical familial reasons like catching up and sending good vibes. The three siblings also helm ai Toronto Seoul, a sustainably-minded vegan handbag and accessory brand that’s based in Toronto and produces its wares on a small scale in Seoul, […]

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For Hannah Kim, Joanna Lee and Rebekah Ma, staying connected during COVID-19 wasn’t just crucial for typical familial reasons like catching up and sending good vibes. The three siblings also helm ai Toronto Seoul, a sustainably-minded vegan handbag and accessory brand that’s based in Toronto and produces its wares on a small scale in Seoul, South Korea. Kim and Lee are located in Canada, while Ma has lived in Seoul for the last two years and lends a hands-on approach to how their products are made.

The trio collaborates on the brand’s designs with their mother, Hun Young Lee, who in addition to being an award-winning fine artist, helped her daughters to develop their passion for fashion. “Our mom, who was an immigrant in Toronto in the 1970s when she was in her early twenties, felt fashion was something she could connect with when she came to Canada because it’s a universal language,” says Kim. “Growing up, we always had the latest Vogue and InStyle and Chatelaine on our coffee table. And watching Fashion Television every Sunday night was our ritual.”

It’s through another family connection that the sisters came to learn about sustainable and conscious manufacturing, as their aunt owns a facility in South Korea that makes vegan leather bags. The country, Lee notes, was a pioneer in terms of developing and producing such materials. “We grew up wearing our aunt’s bags,” says Kim when reflecting on how their awareness of mindful design developed. “It’s something that’s been part of our lives without really thinking of it.”

ai toronto seoul
Photography courtesy of ai Toronto Seoul.

Of course, growing up in Canada, the three honed an understanding of taking care of the environment in various ways. “We were always educated about respecting the earth in school, like recycling,” recalls Lee, adding that these elements all contributed to how they formed a model for ai Toronto Seoul’s own production. Its bags and other accessories — including hair clips and sunglasses for kids — are made in limited quantities; if a style doesn’t sell, they don’t make it again. “Going that route was very natural for us,” Lee continues. “Our philosophy is that sustainability is based on a collection of choices — the little decisions that you make [contribute to] how we’re affecting the planet.”

The three also came to an appreciation for such decision-making when Kim was diagnosed with a tumour several years ago; her chemotherapy treatment lead the family to reconsider how they ate, turning them to a more plant-based diet. “It shifted our thinking in terms of health,” Lee notes.

The diagnoses proved pivotal in the career direction the sisters would take, too. “We were at a point in our lives when we were all in the education field,” says Kim. “When I was diagnosed with the tumour, I had to stop working. It was a wake-up call for our family, and my mom felt like we needed to do something together. We had always wanted to, [but] that felt like it was the right moment. I was doing chemo, and she wanted to get my mind off it.”

ai toronto seoul
Photography courtesy of ai Toronto Seoul

Beginning by importing their aunt’s bags to Canada and then “ghost labelling” for a Toronto-based designer for two years, their confidence grew with the success of each project and eventually, they branched out into creating a brand of their own. The effort is a team one — “Everyone has to be on board with a decision,” Ma says — with the matriarch Hun Young acting as head designer.

“She has a good visionary sense,” Lee says of what inspires ai Toronto Seoul’s pieces. “We never put out a product unless we absolutely love it.” In addition to their mother’s forward-thinking sense of style, Ma says that being based in South Korea has given her insight into the fast-pace of trend adoption there. “The fashion here is beyond compare,” she says. “Living my whole life in Canada, there was a bit of a culture shock — but the fashion is so fun.”

One can sense the admiration for this unique attitude towards dressing in ai Toronto Seoul’s offerings, like the Esse bag style, which was launched last year to address the desire to have a hands-free bag that carries only the essentials. The cross-body comes in a variety of colourways from tonal to two-way blue and yellow, for those a little more adventurous in their accessory choices.

ai toronto seoul
Photography courtesy of ai Toronto Seoul

When the brand launched reusable masks close to the start of the pandemic — Ma saw the great need for them in South Korea and urged her sisters that it was an item worthy of creating for their customer base — they not only fashioned them in eye-catching colours. They chose to craft them out of fabric made with an antibacterial yarn called Aerosilver, which has been granted an Eco-Mark award from the Japan Environmental Association. The sisters, who have family who are healthcare workers, incorporated a donation component into sales as well.

“It was a no-brainer for us,” Kim says about giving one mask to a frontline worker for every mask sold. The introduction of the masks also inspired the sisters to offer chains made of recycled acrylic; speaking to the notion of sustainability through versatility, an additional hook included in several styles means you can also affix your eyewear or AirPods for close-keeping.

Multi-purpose functionality was also a key component in another product launch for ai Toronto Seoul during the pandemic — a convertible bag and dog leash set that was created in collaboration with television personality Tanya Kim. “When we were young, there weren’t really many Asian, let alone Korean, women on television that we could relate to,” recalls Hannah Kim. “Tanya was the only person we could relate to. We’ve always looked up to her, and she’s always been a strong supporter of our business. There’s a mutual respect.”

That concept is equally important to the brand’s founders when it comes to the treatment of the makers who craft ai Toronto Seoul’s pieces. And they do what they can to tout the technique of the team, and the conditions under which they work. Highlighting the protections mandated by South Korean government to ensure equitable and safe environments for workers, Kim says that now more than ever, these points are of keen interest to consumers. “We try to tell this story to our customers [because] we know how important that is.”

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How Toronto Shopping Destination WDLT117 Navigated COVID-19 https://fashionmagazine.com/style/toronto-wdlt117-navigated-covid-19/ Thu, 27 May 2021 16:19:16 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=421348 When managing director of Yorkville’s WDLT177 boutique, Jason Morikawa, opened its doors in the summer of 2019, the space — curated, cool and full of names not typically seen in the Canadian shopping scene — was poised to become a must-visit for fashion lovers searching for the lines they typically only interacted with digitally. Or […]

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When managing director of Yorkville’s WDLT177 boutique, Jason Morikawa, opened its doors in the summer of 2019, the space — curated, cool and full of names not typically seen in the Canadian shopping scene — was poised to become a must-visit for fashion lovers searching for the lines they typically only interacted with digitally. Or in some cases, that they didn’t know they needed to know.

Kolor, A.W.A.K.E Mode, Y/Project, Both and Bode were just a few of the labels one could find in an eclectic array housed in the grand two-level shop. “Our store is all about the experience,” Morikawa says. “People could come in and see new brands that they hadn’t seen before, or been able to touch before. So many emerging brands are online-focused, so we wanted to give them a home in Toronto.”

After a year of offering up a unique mix of men’s and women’s garments and accessories IRL, COVID-19 hit, and Morikawa suddenly had to make a major pivot; and not just in terms of taking buying appointments via video call — a great challenge for retailers who previously relied on in-person appointments to truly get a sense of the weight, fabric feel and movement of the items they were bringing into their shops.

“There’s only so much you can see on Zoom,” Morikawa says with a laugh, adding that WDLT117’s story also “needed to translate online.” So came a greater push to take its philosophy into the digital world; but also, to bring everything back home, in a sense, as well.

 

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In addition to ramping up the store’s e-comm experience, Morikawa — who has an extensive background in the Toronto luxury retail landscape, having worked for Holt Renfrew and Saks Fifth Avenue before launching this endeavour — expanded its niche into the housewares realm. You’ll now see quirky lines like Qeeboo and Ligne Blanche amongst WDLT117’s offerings. (Swedish brand Aveva’s felted planters have been of particular interest, because, well, plants.)

What’s been most crucial to Morikawa is that there’s no disconnect between the fashion and home goods; each piece speaks to the special moments he’s strived to give his customers access to all along. “They’re looking for a more diverse range of lesser-known brands,” he says. And he takes particular pride in the emphasis WDLT117 has had in supporting Asian designers based around the world. “We’ve noticed solid sales performance there,” he says of the appeal of unisex-focused label Feng Chen Wang, hat maker Kijima Takayuki, and Shushu/Tong’s playful wares.

Paris-based, sustainably-minded designer Marine Serre has also been a strong favourite for customers — unsurprising given the uptick in consumers being more mindful about their purchases, particularly throughout the last year. And a rise in interest around genderless garments has made Australian designer Dion Lee a hit.

These names noticeably serve up looks that fall on the fashion-forward yet casual side, and this vibe has certainly been what’s kept WDLT117 going during COVID-19. Morikawa is hopeful, though, that once lockdown eases and going out is a thing again, that people will “want to have some fun, and shake off the COVID nightmare. I see it kind of like the end of the Depression; the opulence came back and people started getting dressed again.” Here’s hoping.

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New York-based Brand EdoEyen Honours the History of Angkorian Jewellery Design https://fashionmagazine.com/style/edoeyen-jewellery/ Fri, 21 May 2021 13:02:53 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=420866 If you’re looking to up your accessory game (applicable to both video call moments AND emerging into the wider world one day), New York-based jewellery brand EdoEyen offers pieces that are both significant and spectacular. Founders and sisters Edo and Eyen Chorm launched the label late last year, inspired by their Khmer roots and the […]

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If you’re looking to up your accessory game (applicable to both video call moments AND emerging into the wider world one day), New York-based jewellery brand EdoEyen offers pieces that are both significant and spectacular. Founders and sisters Edo and Eyen Chorm launched the label late last year, inspired by their Khmer roots and the legacy of finery within Cambodian culture.

“Not a lot of people know about it,” Edo notes of the Angkorian civilization; the mythology of this ancient Buddhist/Hindu society, found in the region now known as Cambodia, mesmerized the duo as children. Edo was born in Cambodia and her sister was born in Thailand; their family had fled Cambodia in the wake of the brutal regime of the Khmer Rouge, living in Thailand and the Philippines prior to traveling to America “seeking a better life,” says Edo. “We were literally rolling stones, as it was part of the grueling process of seeking asylum as refugees.” Despite the distance to their ancestral country, the pair’s parents ensured a piece of their heritage was always with them.

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“Our mom always told us stories about the Angkorian people,” Eyen says, adding that they also watched movies made during the 1960s and early ‘70s which featured the elaborate traditional costuming of the Royal Ballet. The sisters also learned about the lavish jewellery worn by Angkorians thanks to participation in Cambodian classical dance during their youth. Edo says she was always entranced by the regalia worn by older people in the troupe, and aspired to one day don such extravagant pieces herself.

Thanks to their mutual experiences in the fashion world (Edo is a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology and Eyen used to model), the two eventually came to the idea of creating a jewellery line that honoured their Khmer identity, preserving the artistry of historical accessories while infusing a sense of modern cool into the range.

 

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EdoEyen launched with its Face collection, composed of the Neang Neak ear cuff, the Phkachhouk 1.0 and 2.0 earrings, and the bold Kbang crown. Fashioned in New York City’s Diamond District from a choice of either precious or costume materials that are either recycled or new and ethically sourced, the pieces are certainly beyond the ordinary. And that’s exactly the point.

“I love tiaras,” Edo says when highlighting the Kbang’s crowns design and how it instantly elevates a look to royal status. She adds that the piece took a long time to bring to market because of its size and the complication of the design. In fact, all of EdoEyen’s offerings possess a level of intricacy that has largely been absent from the contemporary jewellery landscape thanks to a focus on daintier, minimalistic pieces in recent years.

 

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The sisters, who are self-taught in the area of jewellery design, emphasize that an element of theatricality and grandeur has to be retained in their concepts. After all, they’re reminiscent of the accessories worn by kings and queens. The Neang Neak ear cuff, for example, is an homage to Queen Soma, the purported original monarch of Cambodia. And the Phkachhouk earrings are meant to symbolize hope, rendering the revered Lotus flower in two stages of its growth. The design was influenced by the only publicly-known pair of ancient royal regalia earrings in existence, which are displayed at the National Museum of Cambodia.

While EdoEyen’s pieces amplify the traditions of their ancestry, Eyen says that she and her sister are excited to “bring the designs to the world.” Edo adds that such cultural representation also “helps people have a voice in the [fashion] industry.” The duo recently dropped a teaser from their upcoming Hand collection, due out this summer; a ring boasting a wrap-around serpent-style silhouette.

“We didn’t create this brand to meet a demand,” Edo notes of their measured and curated approach to collection ideation and releases. “It’s to grow an appreciation of this type of art. I know it goes against all the marketing rules, [but] we’re having fun and that’s all that matters for now.”

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Hang With Hailey Bieber, Naomi Osaka, Emma Chamberlain and More on Levi’s 501 Day 2021 https://fashionmagazine.com/style/levis-501-day-2021/ Wed, 19 May 2021 13:52:11 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=420805 Naomi Osaka gaming with Marcus Rashford on Twitch, and coffee talk with Emma Chamberlain, Hailey Bieber and Barbie Ferreira are just a small sampling of the fun expected tomorrow (Thursday, May 20) during Levi’s 501 Day 2021. This cadre of cool kids — including Osaka, the tennis pro and recently announced Met Gala 2021 co-chair, […]

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Naomi Osaka gaming with Marcus Rashford on Twitch, and coffee talk with Emma Chamberlain, Hailey Bieber and Barbie Ferreira are just a small sampling of the fun expected tomorrow (Thursday, May 20) during Levi’s 501 Day 2021. This cadre of cool kids — including Osaka, the tennis pro and recently announced Met Gala 2021 co-chair, and Rashford, the English footballer and MBE — is part of the day’s virtual events, which highlights the “perfect canvas for creative expression” that the denim icon claims to be.

Joining this group of celebs are Jaden Smith and Shai Gilgeous-Alexander; each of the names were tapped because of their ability to “effortlessly blend style, creativity, authenticity, and purpose,” according to a statement about this year’s event. In the photos, they wear blue jeans and other denim pieces with personalized flourishes like Smith’s beaded necklace and well-worn New Balance running shoes.

levi's 501 day 2021
Photography courtesy of Levi’s.

Smith, Chamberlain and Rashford also were part of Levi’s Buy Better, Wear Longer campaign last month, which highlighted the brand’s sustainability efforts. And if you’re a fan of these names, get pumped — you can tune in tomorrow for a range of experiences with them. The full schedule, which begins at 9:01 EST, is as follows:

Coffee Talk on Levi’s YouTube with Emma Chamberlain and Hailey Bieber

Live with Naomi Osaka and Marcus Rashford

Live performances from Levi’s® Haus Los Angeles on Levi’s YouTube featuring Kehlani, Eric Nam, Joyce Wrice & Duckwrth

501® Tie-Dye DIY with Rit Dye

Culture Club on Clubhouse w/ special guests Jaden Smith, Emma Chamberlain, Shai Gilgeous-Alexander, Barbie Ferreira and more surprise hosts and guests

501® TikTok Chill Lab

You read that right: Trading cards. As well as its programming, Levi’s 501 Day 2021 also brings with it a drop of limited-run collectibles. For a product that’s included in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History, the cards feel like a natural fit.

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Winnie Harlow in Miu Miu + More Top Looks From the MTV Movie & TV Awards 2021 https://fashionmagazine.com/style/celebrity-style/mtv-movie-tv-awards-2021-fashion/ Tue, 18 May 2021 18:06:02 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=420745 Avid award show fans experienced quite a treat this week with the recent MTV Movie & TV Awards 2021 being broken up over two evenings. There was Sunday night’s ceremony for “Scripted” story-telling, and the last night’s event for “Unscripted” shows including reality, talk and music docs. In addition to the typically laid-back format and […]

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Avid award show fans experienced quite a treat this week with the recent MTV Movie & TV Awards 2021 being broken up over two evenings. There was Sunday night’s ceremony for “Scripted” story-telling, and the last night’s event for “Unscripted” shows including reality, talk and music docs.

In addition to the typically laid-back format and unexpected moments (see: Scarlett Johansson getting slimed by husband Colin Jost while accepting the Generation award from home), there was no shortage of fabulous fashion fare for those of us seeking out any glamour we can these days. Many stars chose to amp up the wardrobe wattage for the festivities, including Canadian model/series judge in the upcoming season of reality fashion design show Making the Cut Winnie Harlow who was decked out in a chic, cheery crystal-embellished two-piece by Miu Miu. Super stylist Law Roach took his own turn on the red carpet in a floor-length custom Vera Wang ensemble; Cherie Chan of Bling Empire wore a sumptuous gown by Turkish brand Haleia Couture; and Lana Condor was in head-to-toe Giorgio Armani sequins. Kathryn Hahn was a winner of two awards for her villainous portrayal of Agatha in WandaVision, and she also stole our hearts with a simple, saucy all-black look by designer Gabriela Hearst.

In major love-to-see-it moments, Leslie Jones (who took home the award for Best Comedic Performance for Coming 2 America and also hosted the “Scripted” portion of the Awards) donned a dramatic orange frilled dress by Bishme Cromartie as one of her many outfit changes; Insecure’s Yvonne Orji rocked a rainbow fringed look by Ghanaian designer Mimi Plange; and Bling Empire’s Jaime Xie wore one of the most fashion-forward pieces of the entire affair, a Spring 2021 ‘Tassel dress” by Didu. Here’s hoping for more of these brilliantly bold choices to come in light of other recent award shows’ lack of diversity with regards to red carpet designers.

But it wasn’t all glitz galore — some attendees took a more glam-meets-casual approach to their attire in a perfect fusion of the lounge-y vibe we’ve all been feeling over the past umpteen months. Black-ish/Grown-ish star Yara Shahidi glowed in a semi-formal-yet-sporty ensemble from her recently released collab with adidas Originals — take a styling tip here as we look forward to emerging from lockdown by elevating comfy outfits with pointy heels and dramatic jewellery.

Speaking of sporty, there were more than a few sneakers spotted on the red carpet too, from a pair of classic Chuck Taylors on Eric André to the bright red kicks worn by Outer Banks actor Chase Stokes (which perfectly complemented his red suit and sheer shirt from Fendi).

And showing some true style savoir faire, Drag Race’s Symone brought down the house with an archival homage to the tuxedo by Jean Paul Gaultier. Who else made our list for favourite looks from the MTV Movie & TV Awards 2021? Scroll through to find out!

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Pyer Moss Will Debut Haute Couture This Summer + Other Fashion News To Know https://fashionmagazine.com/style/pyer-moss-haute-couture/ Sat, 15 May 2021 13:30:56 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=420464 Mood-boosters abound in this week’s fashion news, including the announcement that New York-based brand Pyer Moss will make its debut during Paris Haute Couture in July. There’s also the current Dior Men pop-up found at Holt Renfrew Vancouver, which pays homage to the French brand’s Fall 2021 collection collaborator, artist Kenny Scharf. And Netflix’s new […]

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Mood-boosters abound in this week’s fashion news, including the announcement that New York-based brand Pyer Moss will make its debut during Paris Haute Couture in July. There’s also the current Dior Men pop-up found at Holt Renfrew Vancouver, which pays homage to the French brand’s Fall 2021 collection collaborator, artist Kenny Scharf. And Netflix’s new limited series about the life of fabulous and fraught fashion icon Halston may have you channeling going-out energy from your couch. Read on for the latest in all things style-related…

Pyer Moss will show its first Haute Couture collection in July

 

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After a brief hiatus from the runway, designer Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss has recently given fashion fans plenty to talk about. In addition to confirming its return to the New York Fashion Week calendar in September, Jean-Raymond announced that his brand has joined the ranks of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, and will debut Pyer Moss Haute Couture during the shows this July. This will be the label’s first Couture collection, and the occasion also marks Jean-Raymond as the first Black American designer to be invited by the Chambre Syndicale to show during its calendar.

Dior Men is hosting an arty pop-up in Vancouver

dior men holt renfrew vancouver
Photography courtesy of Dior

Holt Renfrew Vancouver plays host to Dior Men’s Fall 2021 collection, designed by Kim Jones in collaboration with renowned artist Kenny Scharf. The whimsical display can be seen in the retailer’s iconic Skybridge setting, its sci-fi vibe recalling the atmosphere of the luxury house’s runway presentation earlier this year. And it plays up the vibrant, pop art sensibility that Scharf infused into a range of knitwear, suiting, outwear and accessories. Get your fill of the fun until May 30.

Allbirds and adidas collaborated on a running shoe with each brand’s lowest carbon footprint to date

allbirds adidas running shoe collaboration
Photography courtesy of Allbirds

Please welcome Futurecraft.Footprint, the new trainer that’s being described as the “personal best” for performance-centric brands Allbirds and Adidas. With a carbon footprint under 3kg and manufactured using a reported 63 percent less emissions than a comparable design, the shoe’s midsole — based on the adidas Lightstrike model — is made with Allbird’s sugar-cane based SweetFoam material.

“We believe that the challenge of solving climate change is the problem of our generation and solving it will not be done alone,” Allbirds co-founder and CEO Tim Brown said in a press release about this unique partnership. “We need to find new business models, new innovations and new ways of working together. Our partnership with adidas is an example of that. Over the past year, our two teams have raced as one to create a shoe as close to zero carbon emissions as we could possibly achieve. The results are an exciting step forward, and hopefully, an example for others to follow.” The prototype for the shoe is part of a limited Creators Club release this month, with wider availability coming for fall.

Sidia is about to restock its top-selling pieces

sidia set
Photography courtesy of Sidia

Effortless essentials-centric label Sidia, launched by Canadian creative multi-hyphenate Erin Kleinberg, is answering the continued call for comfy-chic clothing with the re-release of its eponymous set on Thursday, May 20. Composed of a cardigan and palazzo pants (you had us at “elasticized waistband”), the duo became an instant sell-out when it first launched last year. This time around, a portion of the sales from the drop will be donated to the UNICEF’s India COVID-19 Relief Fund. The brand is marking the return of this customer fave with the release of a short film directed by emerging Toronto-based director Serville Poblete; its premise nods to the dream-like joy of a post-pandemic world — and with Ontario’s recent lockdown extension, that vibe can’t come soon enough.

Londre and The Birds Papaya have teamed up for a sustainably-minded, anti-shame swimwear launch

londre the birds papaya swimwear capsule
Photography courtesy of Londre

Vancouver-based swim and loungewear label Londre has collaborated with Canadian influencer and body positivity activist Sarah Nicole Landry, a.k.a. The Birds Papaya, on a capsule of three new bathing suit pieces. The collection includes Londre’s best-selling Minimalist one-piece, as well as new designs the Sarah top and Nicole bottom; all come in an extended size range and boast a unique floral motif called “Where’s Vulva” (look closely and you’ll know why!). The aim of the print is to rouse “sensuality and playfulness” while “abolishing shame around the most life-giving force, the vulva,” according to a press release. Get your hands on these clever looks when they go online Monday, May 17.

Netflix’s Halston series is here

netflix halston
Photography courtesy of Netflix Canada

In need of a little glamorous escapism? Ewan McGregor stars in the Netflix limited series Halston, an eye-candy infused glimpse at the highs and lows of America’s “first celebrity designer,” Roy Halston Frowick. A favourite of stars like Liza Minelli (played in the series by Krysta Rodriguez), Halston’s contributions to the annals of design are many, including the hat he made for Jacqueline Kennedy’s appearance at John F. Kennedy’s presidential inauguration. But he’s best known for the slinky, minimalistic silhouettes that reigned during the 1970s and were favoured by the Studio 54 set.

Looking for more fashion news?

Here’s how the Suzanne Rogers controversy exposed the Canadian fashion industry’s funding problem

Hudson’s Bay has taken the Fifteen Percent Pledge

New York Fashion Week promises to make a splash for its upcoming season and beyond

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Ontario’s First Poet Laureate Randell Adjei on His Artistic Journey & the Power of Clothing https://fashionmagazine.com/style/poet-laureate-randell-adjei/ Thu, 13 May 2021 20:58:59 +0000 https://fashionmagazine.com/?p=420348 On April 28, Randell Adjei — spoken word artist, author, arts educator and founder of the Scarborough-based youth-oriented initiative Reaching Intelligent Souls Everywhere (R.I.S.E.) — was named the first Poet Laureate of Ontario. The unprecedented accolade is a moment in Adjei’s mounting legacy that’s been building since grade school. “It’s been a journey,” Adjei reflects. […]

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On April 28, Randell Adjei — spoken word artist, author, arts educator and founder of the Scarborough-based youth-oriented initiative Reaching Intelligent Souls Everywhere (R.I.S.E.) — was named the first Poet Laureate of Ontario. The unprecedented accolade is a moment in Adjei’s mounting legacy that’s been building since grade school.

“It’s been a journey,” Adjei reflects. “It’s been about facing adversity, intimately, and finding different avenues to overcome it.” Adjei is frank in divulging the hardships woven into his story, highlighting several arrests in his youth and also the alarming and pivotal time when he was jumped and mugged shortly after being named valedictorian of his high school and graduating as an Ontario Scholar. Adjei has been able to ultimately find a centre, and a purpose, through writing about these instances of upheaval. “When you’re born to do something, I don’t think anything or anyone can hold you back from your destiny.”

He identifies that one of the most crucial points in finding his path to healing and harmony through poetry came after switching schools in grade eight, upon which a new teacher revealed the magic of the medium to an impressionable Adjei. “It was an eye-opening experience,” he recalls. “[Poetry] gave me the opportunity to reflect on where I’d been, and what I was dealing with.”

 

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Adjei says that “he picked up and put down” the pen several times before it became his chosen avenue for change in both his life, and the lives of others. “I went from poetry to basketball,” he says. But not making the team in grade 11 pointed Adjei towards advocacy instead, and during a trip to an event hosted by the National Society of Black Engineers, during which writer and spoken word artist Boonaa Mohammed performed, Adjei was once again lured in by the pull of poetry. “I wrote my first spoken word piece right after that,” he notes.

It was another instance of seeing poetry performed live that sparked the idea within Adjei to pursue encouraging this potential in others. After attending a spoken word event at a church in Brampton, he was inspired to create an organization — one that was non-religious in its atmosphere and founded in his home base of Scarborough — that allowed young people to revel in the self-awareness, personal expression and sense of community central to creative practice.

Highlighting that it was hard to get the project off the ground because of a lack of resources, and even discouragement from some people in his inner circle, Adjei reflects on the experience with a sage outlook. “When you’re walking in your purpose, you end up in places you’re meant to be.” In this case, a trip to a youth resource centre to photocopy his resume ended up being a date with destiny for Adjei; while there, he struck up a conversation with an employee who, after hearing his idea for this creative education outlet, said that the centre was looking to start something similar itself.

After a few more months of planning, R.I.S.E. kicked off with promise in the spring of 2012; only a few months later, the deadly Danzig Street shooting occurred at a block party in Scarborough’s West Hill neighbourhood. “Three girls told me that they were going to go to the barbecue that day, but had come to R.I.S.E. instead,” Adjei says. “It opened my eyes to see that we had something special, and that we had to continue because when we [called it] a ‘safe space’, it wasn’t just the space itself that was safe. It was also preventing people from being in danger.”

 

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Speaking of spaces, Adjei goes on to muse about the realm of social media — undoubtedly the social sphere of choice for many involved in R.I.S.E. — and its impact on youth mental health. “I don’t remember young people speaking about [mental health] the way they are now,” he says. “On one hand, I think it’s beautiful because they’re more cognizant of why they’re feeling what they’re feeling. It wasn’t something we were talking about when I was that age. On the other hand, there’s social media — more and more, the concept of identity is based on the norm of how others see you online; your perception of yourself is based on someone else’s ability to press a button.”

This assertion brings to mind one of Adjei’s poetic works, “The Dash,” the central theme of which explores what happens in the time conveyed by the dash on one’s tombstone. “It’s easy for us to think we’re just here, that we’re just existing,” he says. “I think there’s a huge difference between living and existing. To merely exist is to scratch the surface of our potential. [The poem] highlights that we all have an opportunity to do something with our lives while we’re here; and this is something that I always share with young people — the idea of carving out the dash you’ll be remembered by and for.”

In addition to being remembered for founding R.I.S.E. and publishing his first poetry anthology, I Am Not My Struggles, in 2018, Adjei will also of course be known for becoming the inaugural Poet Laureate for Canada’s most populated province; and the designation has stirred many feelings within him.

“Something that I live by is [the idea that] to find yourself is to lose yourself in the service of others,” he says. “Stepping back and realizing that I’ve done a lot in this time frame, I feel elated and grateful. I’ve gained a clear sense of self through my work. And I can see how this accolade is not only going to continue to serve me but to help other creatives, elevating their profile and advocating for their art.” He also points to the significance of someone from Scarborough receiving such a prestigious nod. “There are so many people doing great work in Scarborough. It sucks that we’re [often] the last to get noticed. But it’s changing,” he says optimistically.

 

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To receive the title from members of the provincial parliament last month, Adjei chose to wear a Glen plaid suit, custom-made from Indochino — “My first custom suit,” he notes — with a bow tie and pocket square from Ghana fashioned from Kente. “The cloth is a big part of our tradition,” he says. “For a long time, I ran away from who I was, and being Ghanaian. Right now, being African is the coolest thing but as a kid I would be made fun of, even by people’s parents. It was scarring.” Adjei’s stylistic choice on such a momentous day reflects his current attitude of confidence and assuredness. “I wanted to represent who I am. [And] there are so many aspects to who I am; this [outfit] brought them together.”

A scroll through Adjei’s Instagram highlights many other attention-getting looks, including a tasseled tunic his friend, stylist Motaniel Ngina, dressed him in for an interview with the business organization Black Execs. Perhaps one of the most potent garments seen on his feed is a sweatshirt from the brand Live It Wear It, which has the words “Property of Black Power 1968” emblazoned on it; the date commemorates when Olympic athletes Tommie Smith and John Carlos boldly raised their fists in a salute during the national anthem while on the award podium at the games in Mexico.

“It was an iconic moment,” Adjei says. “[The sweatshirt] reminds folks that at the end of the day, we’ve overcome so much. And it’s a talking point — it’s meant to be provocative in a way.” Given the challenging and inspirational nature of all the facets of Adjei’s work, it’s an apt sartorial moment that we’re sure to see more of throughout his career.

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